hanging bare bulbs

[blalew]

I'm looking into how to hang bare antique bulbs (carbon filament type) in a safe way. Here's a pic for reference

I want to use 15x of 30W bulbs. I also bought bases.

I had considered buying a roll of zip cord & using add-a-taps.

However, since I'll be hanging the bulbs in a line across the stage, upstage against some cedar platforms in three groups of 5, I had considered just using a SOOW feeder to get electricity into the pearlin/trusswork from a 600W NSI D4DMX channel. Feed a powerstrip that's ziptied in the trusswork, then make lamp cords and use zip ties to provide strain relief and shorten them to varying lengths.

This is probably crazy so please tell me what should do. I did see this socket cord kit for use with chinese lanterns but seems expensive for something I could make with some sockets, plugs, and zip cord.

Thanks!
-Blanton

 

[Footer]

Learn to tie an underwriters knot first of all. That is what forms the strain relief in the socket. I would put zip cord in the socket, go to the pipe, and terminate edison or stage pin, and then hit two-fers/SOOW to your dimmers. Avoid tri-taps and power strips in the truss if at all possible.

 

[FatherMurphy]

Showmen Supplies - La Porte, Indiana: Online Store

The 167-2 socket is designed as an insulation-displacement termination, and can be hung from a twisted pair of wires or zipline, although that isn't really considered safe these days (Adding an aircraft cable to the wire bundle helps). The idea is to have a continuous run of wire, separate the conductors where you want the lamp, lay the wires into the slots, and simply screw the back cover on until the prongs pierce the insulation and make contact. No splicing or pigtailing required, and you can put as many as the ampacity of the wire will support on a single run.

Showmen Supplies - La Porte, Indiana: Light Stringer Cable Assembly

A more robust version of above.

 

[gafftapegreenia]

Learn to tie an underwriters knot first of all.

YES, no one seems to remember this.

Avoid tri-taps and power strips in the truss if at all possible.

Curious as to your reasoning for this.

Now, were I doing this, I'd prefer something like a LEX E-String along the batten or truss, with tri-taps in each outlet, and home runs from each socket to the tri taps. While I'm comfortable with doing the sockets with zip cord and add-a-taps, if this thing had to take any abuse, such as in a touring situation, I might consider building the socket cords with SJTW, or better yet, SJOOW.


The festoon/brew cord/vampire sockets suggested are certainly very useful, however, when used as a pendant light, a few inches of zip cord must extend past the socket and then be e-taped back to the live end in order for the socket to hand straight, otherwise they hand sideways. Not bad, just something to remember.

I like the keyless brass sockets, they will look period with carbon filament lamps.

 

[blalew]

Learn to tie an underwriters knot first of all.

Much appreciated. Here's a cool diagram for those (like me) who didn't know what this was!

If I used the add-a-taps to replace the power strips, would I use zip cord for the part that takes the tap? If so I might use this instead of powerstrip. I'm assuming the add-a-taps can't punch through anything but zip cord

 

[Footer]

Much appreciated. Here's a cool diagram for those (like me) who didn't know what this was!

If I used the add-a-taps to replace the power strips, would I use zip cord for the part that takes the tap? If so I might use this instead of powerstrip. I'm assuming the add-a-taps can't punch through anything but zip cord

Nope. Neither. Your not even supposed to be using zip cord on a stage, let alone add a taps. I especially would not use it in truss or any type of environment like that. You can get away with the zip cord in this situation because it is more of an "artistic" install. Still though, per NEC, it is not legal. Most people would look the other way as long as when it hits the truss you go to real distribution.

 

[len]

Much appreciated. Here's a cool diagram for those (like me) who didn't know what this was!

If I used the add-a-taps to replace the power strips, would I use zip cord for the part that takes the tap? If so I might use this instead of powerstrip. I'm assuming the add-a-taps can't punch through anything but zip cord

No, add-a-taps can't punch through much more than zip cord. We built a bunch of stuff like this for paper lanterns and the like. Basically, zip cord with male edison on one end, add-a-taps scattered along. Then another piece of zip cord with a male end and a socket wired to the other to hang down. They make (Bill from ESC sells them) a socket with a heavy rubber cover and 2 leads. That way you can control the length. HOWEVER, you don't want the cord with the add-a-taps carrying weight, so best to get some aircraft cable and bundle all that together. Basically the same stuff as how they used to run telephone lines. Look close and you'll see a piece of cable supporting the weight, not the actual phone cable.

Probably not legal for stage (or any other use for that matter). But there it is.

 

[venuetech]

The 167-2 socket is designed as an insulation-displacement termination, and can be hung from a twisted pair of wires or zipline,

I was told long ago that this socket was made to work with "carny wire" . but i have never been able to find any source for that or reference to that name.
it was a 12ga. wire with two rubber insulated strands twisted together, no outer jacket. on ocasion i would find a light string of the stuff in a crawl space left over from construction.

this is a photo of sockets and wire attached to a flat i have in storage.

I also have a socket variation that has a hanger on the cap so you could hang the socket on a supporting string or cable.

 

[venuetech]

with the socket you have you will need a male bushing


and some twisted cloth covered wire 18/3



the 18/3 may or may not fit the bushing very well. They do have some " Antique Replica Wire " in an 18/2 (no UL rating)

it is likely if you give these guys a call they will get you squared away with this project.

 

[David Ashton]

with the potential danger in this setup I would suggest an RCD [safety swich] be inserted in the circuit.

 

[ship]

Seperate the lighting string from the lamp.

I'm a big fan of American Lighting lamp socket stringers Commercial Grade Light String | American Lighting Products, though if needed to make specific outlets on center for certain spacers, I did find a source for some non-Leviton better stringer sockets similar to these I would have to find the brand and part number for again, or perhaps they are from this brand. Have not tried the Lex version.

In a stringer, all a question of what on center for lamps, how long the length of the string of the lamps and does given that need for support need more support. That plus how many curcuits are you trying to feed in what's commercial verses made.

"Much appreciated. Here's a cool diagram for those (like me) who didn't know what this was!
If I used the add-a-taps to replace the power strips, would I use zip cord for the part that takes the tap? If so I might use this instead of powerstrip. I'm assuming the add-a-taps can't punch through anything but zip cord."

(above post) Seek help in wiring and figuring this out. Not ready without supervision to be doing this concept - sorry but get help in it. Lots to learn yet.

Stringers are one question, lamps the second part.

These lamps are reproduction filamet lamps - fine... I use a lot of them even in the execuitive dining room for effet. Still doesen't cancel the idiot on stage with a soccor ball there or now with reason that breaks a lamp and this idiot gets injured factor. Really cool nestogic lamps, been using them almost ten years now thru other brands. Mine are in safety globes and not over the stage where the idiot factor liability factor comes to play.

Can get these lamps thru Halco and many other companies such lamps dipped with a silicone or teflon coating to make them safe. Also adds a frosted coating to them which deletes the concept of such a long "antique" filament in providing a scenic effect.

Can these be considered an important scenic element - that can be replaced by any number of silicone coated lamps normal A-19 lamps that are better and cheaper to do for stringers, or are they important to be long linear reproduction lamps in a string of them as a period piece? This such as a period piece that the audience can tell if old or just a stringer of lamps?

These are questions I would ask to any designer or production manager that's requesting such things before I buy, make or do such things in also the cautions about just bare bulbs above the stage. Designing stuff is cool, but at times it takes a TD or buyer to further refine your intent as I don't think your design concept and initial thoughts to do it in any way comes up with what is best to do or is what will be best to be doing.

 

[hobbsies]

if zip cord is illegal, are cliplights illegal too? Say I use 30 40W incandescent cliplights in a show and I use 16/2 extension cords to connect all of them together evenly between 3 dimmers (10 clips each), this is not allowed?

 

[blalew]

Yes, very old post - but I thought it would be a good idea to close the loop here.

This is a projected backdrop with some hanging Edison bulbs.

Hanging bulbs:
For distro we used two commercial light strings (rated for outdoors) running across the stage that had 24 sockets each (every 2’). Label allowed max 25W per bulb rating but I went with 30W since we only used 15 sockets and the lamp wasn’t in the socket. The light string was zip tied up in the iron.
For each socket, added socket/receptacle adapters by Leviton. The hangers were custom made, about 3’-4’ of SJOOW 18/2 terminated with a plug on one end & keyless brass socket on the other (using an underwriters knot). This was the most time consuming part.
We used Marconi 30W bulbs from 1000bulbs.com.
Zip tied the hangers to the iron to strain relief the hangers so they weren’t hanging by the plug only and allow for random drop lengths.

Projection:
The projected backdrop uses three NEC NP-M300XS 3000 lumen ultra short throw projectors with a Matrox Triple Head 2 Go, running from an repurposed Dell Precision 490 with a GTX 650 Ti video card. The projectors are only about 4' from the backdrop. The short throw means band backline doesn't make shadows on the projection. Our band lighting consists of S4 PAR WFL top lights and S4 Jr 50deg ellipsoidals as high sides to keep all light spill off the projection surface. We don't even put front light on the back line of the band since it would completely wash out the projection.

Backdrop:
The projection surface consists of 15 pieces of coroplast that are 14" wide by 8' high, We used binder clips to attach them to 4" luon slats stapled onto vertical stage string from a previous design. The coroplast pieces provide much more projection surface than the thinner slats did, so even though we were using projection on the slats, some people thought we had just added the projectors.

 

[Focus]

Nope. Neither. Your not even supposed to be using zip cord on a stage, let alone add a taps. I especially would not use it in truss or any type of environment like that. You can get away with the zip cord in this situation because it is more of an "artistic" install. Still though, per NEC, it is not legal. Most people would look the other way as long as when it hits the truss you go to real distribution.

Can you explain why, you say you cannot use zip cord, but it is okay if it is "artistic"? Can you explain this grey area, and when doing things that are technically against code, is okay as long as it is done safely?

 

[TheaterEd]

Can you explain why, you say you cannot use zip cord, but it is okay if it is "artistic"? Can you explain this grey area, and when doing things that are technically against code, is okay as long as it is done safely?

As I understand it, the grey area comes from it being a temporary artistic installation. Legally speaking, there is no grey area. It is against code. However, some inspectors will let it slide as long as it is temporary.

Again, that's just my interpretation of what was stated.

 

[blalew]

Just to be clear - zip cord wasn't used for distribution or hangers in the install. Thanks all for steering me away from zip cord & add-a-taps...

 

[theatricalmatt]

In the past I've used hanging-bulb cord sets purchased from Ikea (HEMMA, runs about $5), which gives a pretty good length -- it's essentially a 15' cable with a light bulb socket on one end, designed for paper lanterns and such. This is essentially the same thing, minus the lantern. The cost is low enough that it's worth spending the money (as opposed to zip cord + add a taps + sockets + time), and they're rugged enough to coil up and use over and over again. The 15' length is a minor limitation; for obvious reasons, I avoid having the electrical connection made in mid-air and instead get it up onto a grid or batten.

 

[BillConnerFASTC]

The NEC calls this festoon Lighting and is regulated by 225.6 (B). It requires 12 AWG wires unless supported by a messenger wire - like 1/8" GAC - which is required anyway if more than 40' spans. When I made a bunch in grad school - over 2000 lamp holders on I think 6 or 8 different spans I used stranded 12 AWG THHN conductors, 1/8" gac messenger wires, and pin type sockets - http://shop.kendallelectric.com/ind...42166&ds=dept&process=search&qdx=0&ID=,4,7,87. Seemed effective and efficient and I believe still would meet code. Several amusing stories connected with that production and making the festoons which are better told at a bar.

 

[JD]

Another distinction comes when you get to the final cable that goes between the fixture and the first plug (length limited)- The "whip cord." Everything from that point back to the dimmer must be type S or SO (or derivatives of hard service) if it is a portable cable. The catch here is that the fixture and it's cord is part of a UL approved assembly. (See application note below.) So, your table lamp from home depot (being used as a table lamp) with the 18/2 zip cord is ok to use unmodified provided it is an approved assembly. But, the extension cord it is plugged into must be hard service (S, SO, etc.) If you go into a restaurant and see that their table lighting is hung from above by 18 gauge wire, and is hard wired into the building (probably on a 20 amp circuit), it is because of this same loophole. Now, here's the catch- If you build it yourself it is not an approved assembly.

The particular use can also be judged by a fire marshal to be unsafe. For example, a work-light with a thin plastic cord draped over or taped to a truss full of nice hot lights will probably get you shut down. In this case, the application overrode the fact that it was an approved assembly.