Help-- Power in the middle of a parking lot?

My problem is for example I need a 1/8" input to the board... well if the board has RCA jacks, I've got those adapters, but if it has XLR, I need them to provide it (actually I could do XLR to 1/8", but it would involve about 3 adaptors/cables). I don't know what type of cables need to run between their speakers... could be xlr, could be 1/4", ect. So should I just put 20' speaker cable? Ect... can you tell I've never put together a gear list in this detail before (unless it's stuff I'm familiar with).

I'm guessing I should also tell then that I'm kinda new to the whole putting together a system and ask if they'll check it?
 
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If you don't know what you're getting I don't think you can make a very good list.
I would suggest you contact them and see what is available before you do anything.
 
can you tell I've never put together a gear list in this detail before (unless it's stuff I'm familiar with).
Yes...

I'm guessing I should also tell then that I'm kinda new to the whole putting together a system and ask if they'll check it?
If you can't go through every cable and component of the system on a piece of paper, you are better off having the company decide what is adequate.
 
My problem is for example I need a 1/8" input to the board... well if the board has RCA jacks, I've got those adapters, but if it has XLR, I need them to provide it (actually I could do XLR to 1/8", but it would involve about 3 adaptors/cables). I don't know what type of cables need to run between their speakers... could be xlr, could be 1/4", ect. So should I just put 20' speaker cable? Ect... can you tell I've never put together a gear list in this detail before (unless it's stuff I'm familiar with).

I'm guessing I should also tell then that I'm kinda new to the whole putting together a system and ask if they'll check it?

If you're getting this rental stuff from a qualified rental company they should have the adapters/cables. Just tell them "I have a X output" and they'll be able to get you cables to connect. If you're unsure about cabling, bring your output in and connect it all at their shop.
 
Here's my advice, use a small generator like other posters have said, you can get a Honda eu2000i for around $30 dollars a weekend where I live, and it will give you a 14 amp outlet if I remember correctaly. Having a quiet gennerator is key if you don't want long power runs, I found this out the hard way when I helped with a local church and their parade float, they were going to cover bringing a genny, and they brought one of thes small camp generators! Man thoes things are loud! An acoustic guitarest competing with a rattaling noisy smelly generator? That was a fun mix... Anyways, I have fallen in love with the whisperquiet honda generators, they can go for a couple hours on a single tank of gas. Also, for music playback, I have ran a mackie active rig, 2 tops and sub, 2 times off the hona generator that I mentioned with absolutly no problems, and a JBL VRX rig with no issues at full volume. Also, of you just ask the local sound co. for what you need (1/8" hookup) they should be able to get you set up no problem! Most importantly however, is have fun! Personially I love setup and wrapping cables just as much as I love mixing a whole band, it's just so dang addicting and fun! I know that with the right gear it will go off without a hitch!

Sidenote, If you do get a Honda genny, make sure you open the air valve on the fuel cap! I made that silly mistake once, it ran for ten min. But suddenly it died! Thankfully we were just setting up! Also, make sure you engage the Eco-throttle, then it will be whisper quiet!
 
We have a Battery Powered PA system that works really well, the company that makes ours is Australian but I'm sure there is a similar equivalent in the US.
Nick
 
To comment on a few things noted...

If you are writing a gear list and the one company is supplying all the gear, it can be assumed that the company is capable of working out what connectors need to be on the ends to suit THEIR gear and so saying a 20m speaker cable and a 10m mic cable ought to be adequate. For your iPod input say something like 1x cable to adapt 3.5mm stereo TRS to mixer inputs - that makes the mixer input end their problem to work out...
Basically specify what matters and assume (stupidly or otherwise) that the company is capable of working the rest out when connecting their stuff together.

Note that all of the numbers being tossed around for effects of current are for a healthy adult. People with existing heart conditions and other ailments are more vulnerable and will have lower thresholds. This is why RCDs in hospitals are 10mA devices not the 30mA devices used more generally.

I disagree that an inverter and battery supply is an unwise choice. As always it depends on the load amongst other things, but because of the battery you have the ability to take peaks better than with a generator in many ways.
In contrast a generator (particularly if the audio load is the only load) is liable to have it's supply characteristics vary with the load, affecting voltage sure but also potentially affecting the frequency stability of the supply, especially in small generators and even more so in cheap generators. (This has to do with back emfs and other such fun)

If you are to use a generator, do ensure you have the thing fuelled before you start, it's embarrassing otherwise. Chances are if you get the generator to start it will behave, but I've lost count of the number of times I've had issues with generators...

Agreed that if you are causing a current of any significant magnitude to flow by metering Active - Earth then your meter needs to be divided into small pieces and disposed of thoughtfully. Note also that you need to be used a meter appropriately rated for the fault voltage potential - in this case I believe you would need a Cat IV rated meter.

The current draw for your rig will depend a lot on the character of the music being reproduced - simply bass needs more juice. With an analog voltmeter and not much residual load, you would be able to watch the voltage drop in time with the kick drum beats if they are amplified...

If you go for the long cable route, then you would be very well advised to ensure the feed is RCD protected. Running over cables causes non visible damage to the internal structure of the cable which affects things like the insulation resistance - this can become BAD. Has it happened before? Sure Is it good? No. Now I won't explicitly say it but power cable is probably going to survive temporary point loading better than audio multicore or dread the thought fibre (which for most fibre will die there and then and be non field reterminable - some of the milspec stuff will survive but may sustain internal damage that causes attenuation of the signal.)

And in the food for thought department for competent professionals, the Australian Standard for Temporary Power (Shows & Carnivals, AS3002:2008) throws this curler:
AS3002:2008 Clause 3.2 said:
... Earthing of the generator frame, or equipotential bonding system, by use of an electrode or stake is not required and not recommended.
 

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