LED Practicals flickering

edbles

Member
I've got a strand of low wattage LED XMAS lights plugged into an NSI pack that has intermittant flicker issues. I'm trying to see if anyone else has had this problem or knows what I need to be looking at. The LED XMAS lights are a simple hardware store strand with a fuse. I've got a ghost load on the pack with the string itself, the ghost load flickers as well, which seems to indicate a data issue. The NSI pack is terminated. I plan on switching the practicals to a non-NSI dimmer tomorrow, but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the potential causes of this problem.
 
I've got a strand of low wattage LED XMAS lights plugged into an NSI pack that has intermittant flicker issues. I'm trying to see if anyone else has had this problem or knows what I need to be looking at. The LED XMAS lights are a simple hardware store strand with a fuse. I've got a ghost load on the pack with the string itself, the ghost load flickers as well, which seems to indicate a data issue. The NSI pack is terminated. I plan on switching the practicals to a non-NSI dimmer tomorrow, but I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the potential causes of this problem.

Is there any control? Why are LED lights being powered by a dimmer? or are these non DMX and you were hoping to dim the LEDs?
 
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The LED Christmas lights that I have worked with are DC and only operate on each Positive cycle of the AC wave which will make them flicker at 60hz. This is usually fast enough to be hardly noticed by the average person. A dimmer puts out chopped up AC by basicly varying the duty cycle and the AC pulses get shorter as the dimmer is decreasing in brightness. While the frequency stays at 60hz, it becomes easier to notice the LEDs flickering as they are dimmed to very low levels and being flashed by very short pulses from the dimmer.
 
If you get higher quailty LED lights from a company like Philips or General Electric, they are designed in a way that elimnated the 60hz flicker
 
like wooferhound said, a dimmer chops up the sin wave of the current,and LED's want to be looking at a square curve anyway, yet in the string are resistors that give the LED's the resistance/power that they want. also cheap LED's flicker to begin with so if you mess anything up at all (such as the sin wave of the AC) they get even worse. if i were you i would go to regular christmas lights, if you want them to dim/you want control without using a non-dim.
 
Would the 60 Hz flicker still happen if the dimmer was at full or assigned a non-dimming profile?

yes you would still see a flicker even if it was at full (it still chops up the sin wave of the AC curent. and if your "dimmer" can dim at all then assigning it to a non-dim profile wouldn't change the flicker problem. only a dedicated non-dim circuit would work.

question, why is it that you want to use LED christmas lights instead of regular incandescent christmas lights?
 
a way to fix this flickering is to run the dimmer output through a Bridge Rectifier on the way to the LED strings. This will double the Flicker frequency from 60hz to 120hz and will be hardly noticeable. This would require some electronics ability and a soldering iron.
 
Some LED strings use half-wave rectifiers, others use full-wave ones. You might try a string from a different manufacturer, or use a bridge as WofferHound said. If you use a bridge and the string doesn't light, reverse the wires going to the string.
/mike
 
or if you wanted to get really fancy, you could build a capacitor box to use as a temp power supply when the sine wave is chopped, Of course you would need to know the load of all of the LED strings including voltage drop but it just depends on your comfort level

P.S. I got this idea off of a friends recent amplifier install in his car, They sell large "heavy duty" capacitors to provide power during strong hits for the subs.
 
or if you wanted to get really fancy, you could build a capacitor box to use as a temp power supply when the sine wave is chopped, Of course you would need to know the load of all of the LED strings including voltage drop but it just depends on your comfort level

P.S. I got this idea off of a friends recent amplifier install in his car, They sell large "heavy duty" capacitors to provide power during strong hits for the subs.

In theory that would work. In practice, the capacitor would have to be a high value with a very high voltage rating. Those are not easy or cheap to obtain. Anything sold for car stereo use would have too low a working voltage and would certainly fail if not explode.

Not only that, but a capacitor will only filter DC, so you would have to rectify the dimmer output before applying it to the capacitor.
 

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