Vintage Lighting Making Bantam Superspot parts

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Spent the last three months in making parts to and even fabricating from scratch copies of antique lights. While waiting to get welded up various other parts I started a new project.

Acquired five Bantam Superspots a few months ago of a style I don’t yet have in already having two other versions. One of the recent ones was fairly complete but painted gold (total sand blasting as with the rest), the others are in various stages of missing parts especially one. Wish there was a catalogue for such 50's 4.1/2" studio lights so as especially to see what was in front of them - screws on the plate but nothing mounted, but there isn’t any such a catalogue. Made a gel frame bracket to the below PC fixture but took it off later because I didn’t know. I already have one without fan that was missing a lens and made into a PC version and a color rotating version that was all factory except for a louvered top I made. Of the intact new bulk of them style, all are of the same type. The gold one had a Fresnel lens and a rear cooling fan which is different than my other ones. These are possibly later because they are rated for 1Kw as opposed to my others for 500w. Perhaps thus the fan. Unfortunately the idiot that painted the fixture gold also lost it’s name plate.

Already replaced a missing louvered top on one of the new style - took all weekend mostly in making jigs to bend the steel and it worked well in the end. Now I’m onto replacing one and fixing a broken part to another of the most spectacular parts - the seemingly bronze or brass Art Deco like top wire cooling fins. On the original ones they were bronze, the newer ones (of this series I’m working on) were steel and painted. Need to fit a replacement front wire to one and make from scratch another.

I’m making the parts out of brass and am so far stuck in how to attach the approximately 1/8" thick wire together or to the steel wire in replacing the front wire of that one that was broken. Welding dpt. is already backlogged in side projects for antique lights - when not already swamped with production projects, so is the special project’s person with a different set of projects for me in waiting. I should be able to do this! Took welding class 20 years ago in college and can solder.

Tried tonight on the replacement front rail to the steel wires. Was with a Weler WES51 at max. temperature able to solder the Brass wire to the steel wire. Than I got out the propane torch and was thinking I could get better than cold solders out of it without clamps etc. (Never have enough clamps.) Re-soldered it up for now but in further bending an arm, broke the replacement and snapped some solder joints as probably the best. Soldering 1/8" wire isn’t going to work unless perhaps there is hope for “the iron” from work. It’s old, big and huge and probably high in amperage as a possibility.

Thinking I can do this still. I have both propane and MAP gas torches, and thinking of switching to 18ga solid copper wire for the welding part or at least plumbling grade non-acid filled solder. Also have tons of forceps that I can trash in clamping properly. I can jig it up at least and am well on the way to bending the brass wire to form. Can I do this? How best to do this?

Flux the joints? What method and is it going to change color when hot enough? Ideas etc? Think I can do this but need advice...

Image of the above Bantam I fitted with PC lens and gel frame. Wire frame intended to fix and make shown & fluited cover below it.
 

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Never mind.

Spoke with the 64 year old special projects person at work and he gave me some McMaster Carr 7761A14 silver brazing wire and lots of advice about how to. Could with solder and either shop’s or his big soldering iron. Also, try the mini butane tourch than Map gas with the silver and by the way I have a small tip assembly with O2.

Forgot the large iron in bringing it home, tried propane than switched to Map gas with the silver wire. Not neat in results but 20 years since I last did such a thing and with the broad tip. Worked well and cleaned up well with Dremmel my mess. Only one weld snapped that I didn’t fully weld.

Don’t think I need the O2 added heat, Map gas was fine for doing so, but the finer point will save in tools getting overheated. A question of applied heat to the area sufficient to melt the silver welding material. That without also damaging the tools used to clamp it up too much.

“Lots of forceps” Yea, that was a bad idea. Cubic inch size of a forcep verses like 1/8" steel and brass. Just trashed the front inch of like four of them. Mini vise grips survived ok though be it needle nose or small but normal. Worried about plastic handles on some, but they survived.

Vise gripping also helped pean the material some for better surface area. Funny even with the forceps clamping that all after heating left a tooth impression on the brass wire from the clamp. Original parts were probably spot welded in wishing work had one - learned that concept back in like 80' and think I can still do it. Don’t have one though... wonder how much budget as a buyer I could get away with in getting one... I don’t have a budget persay and if for another department, this sort of derails the supervision system some but would be nice and useful to have.

Anyway, with some Dremmeling of my crappy welds and one replacement weld, I braized successfully at least eleven out of 33 welds left to do. Bought more tools and the rest should be easy in Map gas silver brazing one to another this especially if I get the finer tip to the torch..

Can do this, just needed a better technique and material to do so with.
 

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