Never underestimate creativity in spite of safety
- Thread starterBillConnerFASTC
- Start date
BillConnerFASTC
Well-Known Member
I thought same but licensed electrician just said not so. So I'm not sure if that is true for all or some breakers. May have to go test this..
OK - you're right as I thought first.
OK - you're right as I thought first.
When you realize those are the even numbered breakers runniing down the right hand side of the panel, you realize the self-tapper's directly over the main buses running down the center of the panel. How long is it going to be before someone tightens the self-tapper just a little too far in or replaces it with a newer, longer, screw? This is reminding me of a loose screw I once regretted tightening while working on my knees under a DJ's counter in the booth of a strip bar in my long distant past. I'll leave that tale / tail to bore you another day.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
Amiers
Renting to Corporate One Fixture at a Time.
When I was relighting a factory they had old breakers that could be held down and still operate. First I had seen that and was surprised.
Same at the current place I am at. An AC unit had an issue and throwing the breaker on it would pop but if you held it, well it did scary things. Yet still feed power and operate.
So yes I would say that some breakers will still function, dangerous but still keeps juice flowing.
Same at the current place I am at. An AC unit had an issue and throwing the breaker on it would pop but if you held it, well it did scary things. Yet still feed power and operate.
So yes I would say that some breakers will still function, dangerous but still keeps juice flowing.
porkchop
Well-Known Member
I've had a breaker pop while attempting to hold it closed and I've seen it continue to allow current flow (although those wherr much older breakers). Either way poor decisions where made and someone's drill privileges should be taken away until we can learn about electrical safety.
BillConnerFASTC
Well-Known Member
The owner who installed the wire reports without any doubt that the breaker tripped regularly prior to the "fix" and has not tripped since. Residential, 2nd floor lighting, 20-25 years old.
Upon further reflection I believe this sort of fix may prevent some circuit breakers from opening, even though modern designs and regulations are to the contrary.
Also, I don't think anyone should ever do this.
Upon further reflection I believe this sort of fix may prevent some circuit breakers from opening, even though modern designs and regulations are to the contrary.
Also, I don't think anyone should ever do this.
Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
There's a possibility that the breaker is old and fidgity, and prone to trip early when not restrained. Whether it would trip properly otherwise is probably a subject for test. The licensed electrics on another board I've recently seen this on concur that any current generation breaker in good repair should trip anyway, as evidenced by the fact that there are -- from breaker manufacturers -- several types of both lock-out and lock-on adapters.
This thread:
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=155210
says that UL489 (and NEC 240.80) has required that all breakers trip-free even with a restrained handle since the 60s...
So the major danger here is probably either an old breaker, or, as suggested above me, an overlong screw.
This is, BTW, an *excellent* reason for a cheap thermal camera in tool bag of all electrics: gonna work on a panel? Check temps before and after removing cover.
And Bill: I recommend that you make sure that nothing life-critical (fire pumps, alarm panels, etc) is ever powered from the same panel as anything users might be expected to turn off with a breaker (like work lights, etc), as the thread also suggests...
This thread:
http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=155210
says that UL489 (and NEC 240.80) has required that all breakers trip-free even with a restrained handle since the 60s...
So the major danger here is probably either an old breaker, or, as suggested above me, an overlong screw.
This is, BTW, an *excellent* reason for a cheap thermal camera in tool bag of all electrics: gonna work on a panel? Check temps before and after removing cover.
And Bill: I recommend that you make sure that nothing life-critical (fire pumps, alarm panels, etc) is ever powered from the same panel as anything users might be expected to turn off with a breaker (like work lights, etc), as the thread also suggests...
GreyWyvern
Well-Known Member
Did you actually personally see that and take the picture?
Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
Pic is making the rounds, Dave; I saw it two different places this week on FB too.
GreyWyvern
Well-Known Member
Ah. I actually just saw it in my twitter feed.
BillConnerFASTC
Well-Known Member
I did not take it but know the person who did and have talked to them. They were working in the house and recommended to the owner they get a qualified electrician in to look at and correct the problem.
Finally a reason for me to get the FLIR one, the addon Thermal camera for iPhones and Androids. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VILVV62/?tag=controlbooth-20
Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
Yeah, but couldn't they have made the damn thing *bluetooth*, so you could hold it somewhere useful and still be able to see the viewfinder?
Neither Bluetooth nor wifi have either the bandwidth or low enough latency for this application.
Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
Not sure I can agree, revered leader. 
These cameras tend to be pretty low resolution, 256x256 in some cases (though the page for the FLIR one, perversely, refuses to tell me this one fundamental spec), and 5-10fps is *plenty* for aiming a camera... and indeed, you could run even lower resolution for aiming.
No, overall, I think the convenience of being able to put the camera on a selfie stick and stick it inside something without burning your arm off far outweighs the inconveniences it might engender, myself...
These cameras tend to be pretty low resolution, 256x256 in some cases (though the page for the FLIR one, perversely, refuses to tell me this one fundamental spec), and 5-10fps is *plenty* for aiming a camera... and indeed, you could run even lower resolution for aiming.
No, overall, I think the convenience of being able to put the camera on a selfie stick and stick it inside something without burning your arm off far outweighs the inconveniences it might engender, myself...
Jay Ashworth
Well-Known Member
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