Power for The Giotto 1200 Spot

[Thos1000]

Hey guys, I just got 10 Giotto 1200 Spot fixtures from China, I know the fixture is from Italy. There is a Blue and Brown wire on the power plug. At this time it has a 3 pin connector on it. One wire going to line the other going to ground. We have 208 and of cuorse 120. How should I hook it up? Which color to what
Thanks

 

[avkid]

Those are standard European colors.
Power Cord Conversion --USA/European

 

[Thos1000]

But isn't it brown to hot and blue to neutral?

 

[derekleffew]

If wiring for 120V (NEMA 5-15 Edison, L5-20):
Brown --> Hot, brass screw
Blue --> Neutral, silver screw
Green/yellow --> ground, green screw

If wiring for 208V, 220V, 240V (NEMA L6-20):
Brown --> X, Hot1, brass screw
Blue --> Y, Hot2, other brass screw
Green/yellow --> G, ground, green screw

From the Giotto Spot 1200 manual.pdf:

 

[Thos1000]

I guess what was messing me up is when I unpacked the fixture, it had a 3 pin turn around on it. But only 2 wires going to the 3 pin, blue to the center ground pin and brown to neutral, or what would be white. Now I don't know how or what this 3 pins female counter part was wired. But, they still were only using 2 wires coming out of the fixture.

 

[derekleffew]

Now I'm confused as well.
By "3 pin turnaround" do you mean a cable with an inline (NAC 3 FCA) Powercon on one end and bare end or male mains connector on the other?
If so, it sounds like the previous owner 1) lost the original powercord, then 2) used two-conductor cable when he should have used three-conductor, and connected the two wires wrong inside the powerCON. In any country, all three wires are required to operate the fixture, safely.

Post pictures if you need more assistance.

 

[Thos1000]

It was the cord that comes with the fixture, the blue that twists and locks, the other end was a regular stage pin, 3 pin. Brown to neutral, blue to ground. I don't know what kind of female stage pin that it was plugged into. I already had that manual. So I took the connector apart for the fixture and put my own cord on it. There were only 2 wires hooked up in the connector that went in the fixture. Crazy, huh, Derick

 

[65535]

It was the cord that comes with the fixture, the blue that twists and locks, the other end was a regular stage pin, 3 pin. Brown to neutral, blue to ground. I don't know what kind of female stage pin that it was plugged into. I already had that manual. So I took the connector apart for the fixture and put my own cord on it. There were only 2 wires hooked up in the connector that went in the fixture. Crazy, huh, Derick

I would inspect all the wiring, I'm not familiar with the instrument, but I would trace from the lamp holder to the connector. If you have to rewire it properly or hire an electrician to rewire it. Ground should connect to the chassis, then you have to decide if you want to use your 208V with an auto transformer, or 120V. Judging by the diagram posted already it will take either voltage depending on the lamp installed, if you want to use it at 120V you'll need to install the larger spec'd cable.

For a 1200W instrument I would run no less than 12/3. 10/3 if you are running any distance and plan on using 120V to feed it.

It sounds pretty fishy to me, and if you don't have experience with the wiring, have someone that is qualified to do it.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Wood4321]

It was the cord that comes with the fixture, the blue that twists and locks, the other end was a regular stage pin, 3 pin. Brown to neutral, blue to ground. I don't know what kind of female stage pin that it was plugged into. I already had that manual. So I took the connector apart for the fixture and put my own cord on it. There were only 2 wires hooked up in the connector that went in the fixture. Crazy, huh, Derick

In looking at the manual,
You are correct, it comes with a powerlock connector.
But it was incorrectly wired when you received it.
In your case, I would run it on 208, as according to the manual, it needs a 32 amp service at 120 volt.

Brown being the X phase, and Blue being the Y, and please use a ground!

Joshua Wood

 

[derekleffew]

...In your case, I would run it on 208, as according to the manual, it needs a 32 amp service at 120 volt. ...

32A is the "cut-off circuit" rating (Is that a common term?).

For power supply purposes, it's probably better to use the manual's "Power Absorbed: 1500W" specification. Thus at 120V, draw is 12.5A. I don't know of any fixture using a 1200W discharge lamp (e.g. MAC2000 with electronic ballast) that requires more than 16.3A, at 120V.

 

[Thos1000]

Since I didn't have enough 208 and L6 connectors I ended up wiring it to 120. It works fine. These are the dirtiest fixtures that I've ever seen in my career. After going through them today, I've got 3 maybe 4 out of the 10 working. I can only afford to purchase 1 new lamp, they cost $250 But I got to say that these things are pretty cool. They are really fast, quiet and very very smooth. Thanks for help everyone

 

[Wood4321]

32A is the "cut-off circuit" rating (Is that a common term?).

For power supply purposes, it's probably better to use the manual's "Power Absorbed: 1500W" specification. Thus at 120V, draw is 12.5A. I don't know of any fixture using a 1200W discharge lamp (e.g. MAC2000 with electronic ballast) that requires more than 16.3A, at 120V.

Whoops,
I missed that section,

Joshua Wood