Ship’s new LED work table work light

[ship]

Ship’s new LED work table work light.
Moving post given interest to a new topic.
New stuff from tonight:
Fixture specified weight is 10#, add some given the spacers and new LED lamps. (Nice to have an early 70's Mole catalog at home and a later and more compete 70's Mole catalogue at work.) Just added a third ½" x 15" 10# tension spring to the upper portion of the support arm. A lot of taking apart and at times parts spring off somewhere with each change. Means 30# of tension on lower and upper arms, and believe me... you get a finger caught in one, you know it!!! Not a engineering person per say past books read... but for me, it’s still a little light in even if up to 15# of weight it will support short of very tensioned screws. The arms with limited travel need either more tension and less springs in larger dia. perhaps or just have to keep tension on them over use. Yet to mount the fixture - one more plate to add in mounting it. Thinking that even 30# of weight rating on the arms, I need more tension TBA.

Overall it’s a monster drafting arm 3.1/2" in width and 1.3/4" in height. 16ga steel 1/2x1/2" 18.1/2" box tubing making it up with spacers seperating and now three each 10# spring per four arm section.

The power supply is going to be one of those for wire rope mounted knob and tube type low voltage fixtures. The kinds that have monkeys upside down on a wheel attaching a lamp or something like that.

"Kable Lite System", ETL listed/UL listed Misc. Fixtures, Tech Lighting inc. - Chicago. Imput, 120VAC - 4 AMP, Output 12VAC 40 AMP.

Nice huge 12v transformer I used to use for my garage box spot MR-16 50w/12v work lights before I went T8 16x flourescent. Lots of cantilever weight added to the turn table platform as with the standoff for it in mounting the mushroom of transformer. Thinking I’ll do a duplex L5-15 outlet and have a second outlet for test lamps at 12VAC available at my work table. Limit the breaker to 20 amps on the output and it should be enough for test stuff and power up the work lights should I ever need all.


Past post:
I'm working on a LED work light for my work table at work amongst other projects.

Articulating drafting table light arm on a swivel springed loaded up for like a 15# load. The arm is proving difficult to engineer what is seemingly easy except that I am mounting a heavy Mole 12"x16" lighting fixture on the arm from it's yoke. Large scale articulating arm assembly on a swivel base. Lived with drafting table lamp type arms all my life and never assumed that this would be the hardest part of the process. Base for it will be like a crane in having a cantiliever 1Kw transformer as ballast in weight and power at the bottom.

It is to mount an early/mid 70's Mole Richardson [HASHTAG]#5511[/HASHTAG] 5-lite Mole FAY PAR 36 MoleQuartz wash light. (Found it in a back store room, one already in the museum restored, four others restored and sent to a club with 4x [HASHTAG]#4596[/HASHTAG] ACL in series and a DWE in the center - they love them.)

In lamp, 5x switched Halco/ProLED PAR 36/9WW40/LED [HASHTAG]#80651[/HASHTAG] PAR 36 wash lights. They are 9 Watts/12Volts and 40 Degree beam spread, I will have lots of light on demand to supplement my Inkie current work table light. Challenge also with the Halco PAR 36 LED lamp is it's not designed properly, the rear mounting/seat dia. for the lamp is 4" in dia which is 1/4" too large for any normal PAR 36 fixture . Very odd in me having to hand cut and sand 1/8" spacers 4" ID. 4.3/4" O.D. so as to properly seat the lamp hopefully. Otherwise I have some extra 1/32" spacers TBA. Very odd lamp in it won't seat properly in any fixture it is supposed to mount into.

Main goals of the project to finally try this LED wash light (never powered one up yet), find a home/use for the antique light, get more light at my work table and the drill press next to it, and R&D what a early LED PAR 36 Audience blinder might be like given what is on the market by way of using stock fixtures with replacement LED lamps in them. Who knows, might be a good thing for the future in R&D.

Working on a large crane arm assembly with a large 1Kw transformer ballast for it, fixture is fully restored. (New topic for discussion once done.)

 

[Beans45601]

Can we see it?

 

[ship]

Can we see it?

Photos in the morning, still a work in progress in chroming the arms (paint color decided) but where to go working on it. Heck, in installing my final plate tonight to the 30# rated arm, I still don't know if it will support the 10#+ expected weight of the fixture will work with the ratings of the springs or how tight in tension on the bolts.... Yet to try in working late and only getting it installed tonight.

Gonna be a few more days until I get this project finished and can get back to other projects at home like baby beds or a huge bulk of trashed Leko's, PAR's and even a strip light to work on. Home or for other employees at work that bought some obsolete gear from a theater which didn't store them too well as obsolete. (Rusted solid Leko' can you say!!!) Done a few so far in converting to A-19 lamp, but have a huge bulk to do yet.

 

[ship]

Ready to chrome in the morning, think the arm will work. Way to complex to take apart again so it won't be "proper" painted & multiple paints. Attached is some photos, more photos later - hopefully completed.

Also had a chance to install the lamps tonight. The 1/8" spacers for behind the lamp I made to seat it won't even be close to working - more like a 3/8" spacer would be needed in tapering from 4" to 3.3/4" I.D.. Not an entirely bad thing if installing the lamps into a old school Mole Richardson FAY type fixture like this. The screws to install the ash trays (lamp retainers) can be replaced with longer ones, and it will allow for a added approximately 10 degree horizontal swivel on the otherwise flat base for the outer lamps.

More modern style Mole square ash trays/fixtures might or might not work with this LED lamp given the needed spacer and the cooling fins in use with how they clip a lamp in. A note, you are also removing all internal lamp bases from the fixture - this LED will not work with a FAY/FCX type lamp base. This short of un-bolting the screw/quick disconnect terminal base on the lamp and just using the screw studs for contact to the Mole style base - I wouldn't recommend it. You would also if installing the LED into a more modern Mole FAY fixture, want to install the screw studs vertical so there is less chance of touching the frame. Given the modern FAY fixture already swivels for a wider focus you would want the spacer or below option for more stability in mounting the lamp finger tight.

This LED lamp I think won't work well on a Thomas style modern DWE lamp style "audience blinder" (short of below option.) The ash trays (lamp retainers) with a spring or screw knob to mount, won't allow for an approximately 3/4" gap between 4" ash tray ring and the 3.3/4" fixture mounting plate for the lamp. Note, there is no keyway on this lamp either, easier to spin but doesn't help in symetricity. Given a circular not oval beam, this might not have been a problem for the lamp in design; but with 5x LED nubs, you would want to have a keyway on the lamp so they can be aligned. Further note, have not checked the specifications recently in knowing if this LED PAR 36 lamp is dimmable.

A option that you could do on more modern fixtures: if you don't plan on switching the fixture between LED and Quartz lamps, you can always expand the mounting plate seat for the lamp to 4" dia. It should now mount the LED lamp just fine, fit all fixtures. Won't work with the old style Mole FAY fixture though as the bottom of the longer MOL LED lamp will touch the screen in the rear of the fixture. Still and especially want to/have to make the screw terminals vertical in a not tried but should fit type of thing on the newer Mole FAY's.

Note the reinforcement plates on the 1/4"x1" yoke..... some idiot in the past like 70's chose to remove the spud mount from the yoke & send it on tour with a C-Clamp that was still mounted on it. Believe in engineering speak, something like no less than half the dia. of the hole for a wall on the sides of it. In other words, a 1" yoke, with 5/8" spud hole in it, especially with yoke out of aluminum should never have it's spud (making it structural but not current standards) removed and a stage lighting C-clamp installed.

Next project up a toddler bed, than back to a huge back log of lights to work on and more child art board changes.

 

[Amiers]

That thing is massive. I could see hitting myself in the head with it lol.