Have read some older threads on sidearms, but thought I would start a new one.. I would like to cheaply but safely sidearm two S4's on both sides of a vertical 1.5" pipe. City Theatrical's Safer Sidearms look good, but they are expensive, and I would need four of them. How about the Light Source Mega Sidearm (with adjustable arm), or their fixed version (both ok)? These are both cheaper. Or is there any problem just using a Rota Pipe Clamp or some kind of Kee-Klamp and a 4' piece of 1.5" pipe straddling the vertical pipe, which looks to be the cheapest method... Pros and cons for these options, or a better one? Thanks.
Sidearm Question
- Thread starterjmac
- Start date
Global truss makes what they call the clamp post
I have an ebay link but these come in different sizes and work quite well
http://cgi.ebay.com/GLOBAL-TRUSS-CLAMP-POST-4-PK-FOR-STAGE-LIGHTING-LIGHTS_W0QQitemZ22054560612
Here is the Full Compass link
Global Truss CLAMP POST 18" Solid Aluminum Post (with Clamp) | Full Compass
Sharyn
I have an ebay link but these come in different sizes and work quite well
http://cgi.ebay.com/GLOBAL-TRUSS-CLAMP-POST-4-PK-FOR-STAGE-LIGHTING-LIGHTS_W0QQitemZ22054560612
Here is the Full Compass link
Global Truss CLAMP POST 18" Solid Aluminum Post (with Clamp) | Full Compass
Sharyn
A Rota-Lock is likely to be the least expensive solution, especially if you already own the cross pipe, and nothing wrong with it, really. Fixed Cheeseborough's are slightly more useful, in that one doesn't need a free end. Although I used to do it often, Kee Klamps probably should not be used in overhead structural applications.
I question the need for a 4' cross pipe with just one fixture on each side. The unit's clamp only needs to be about 9"-12" away from the vertical pipe for clearance. Keeping everything closer to center makes it more stable and imparts less stress.
I question the need for a 4' cross pipe with just one fixture on each side. The unit's clamp only needs to be about 9"-12" away from the vertical pipe for clearance. Keeping everything closer to center makes it more stable and imparts less stress.
Thanks, Sharyn. The ebay post has moved, but I found the new one. So 18" is long enough and sturdy enough for two S4's?
Thanks, Derek. I was thinking of the 4' length for two S4's on each side (total 4). Would 3' be long enough?
It certainly is sturdy enough, each S4 typically is 13.3 inches wide total and 6.7body so side by side might take bit of alignment so that you could have access to everything
I typically use warp around ) clamps so I would just mount one up and one down
Sharyn
Hey Jmac! I have never used the Light Source Side Arm but I have used many of their clamps and I will glady confess my love for them! If it were me, I would probably just use a fixed Cheeseborough (again, I like the Light Source Mega 90 degree Coupler) to attach a 2' piece of pipe to the vertical pipe. 24" would allow for plenty of space between instruments plus the width of the pipe.
Would it be possible to just clamp the instruments to the vertical pipe and yoke them out? Or are these in view of the audience and not the look you are going for?
Would it be possible to just clamp the instruments to the vertical pipe and yoke them out? Or are these in view of the audience and not the look you are going for?
+1. A Rota-Clamp Is a GREAT and secure option.
Oh, for the love of all that is righteous, NO! It will take ten times longer to focus the fixture, and you'll end up with it in an odd position so shutters may not be able to make their angles. If anyone MUST do this, hang the unit sideways out 90° from the target, yoke parallel to the floor. Pan becomes tilt, and tilt becomes pan, but the fixture doesn't care and focus will be so much easier.
jmac, I didn't realize you wanted two units on each side of the vertical. A 3' crosspipe would probably work, but 4' would be better.
I did that for the last show, and two or three problems. First, as Derek mentions, they were a real pain to focus even one, let alone four cramped together. Second, the vertical pipe is not very high, and the bottom fixtures got to be too low. Third, yes it looked pretty bad to boot, all in plain view....
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