Loudspeakers Solid, or stranded?

Thefoxygranpa

Active Member
Hello!

I am helping rebuild some loudspeakers and wire up new NL-4 connectors, when I came across something I was stumped about.

When wiring inside a cabinet, will solid or stranded give a better sound/signal/be better? My initial thought was solid, as because it is permanent in the cabinet, its going to conduct better.

Anyway, looking for some advice and what is best for wiring within a cabinet to the loudspeakers.

Cheers and thanks!:)
 
To be quite honest I've never heard this question before, but i'll take a swing.

1. A NL4 connector is not designed for solid wire

2. Solid wire breaks more easily than stranded

3. Flexibility is important in a portable loudspeaker that is in varied environmental and atmospheric conditions.

4. If one piece of a stranded cable fails, the signal still travels down the cable unlike solid core.


I have never opened a loudspeaker cabinet to find solid core wire.
 
As long as the cross sectional area of the conductor is the same I don't think you can assume a lower resistance for a solid conductor. And resistance is not the only potential factor, inductance and capacitance can also matter in some applications. Ignoring the audiophile skin effect argument for stranded cable, which is irrelevant at audio frequencies, and in addition to the points Phil noted, another potential benefit of stranded cable is that you can often get better contact at the connections. Go with stranded.
 
Skin effect as it relates to solid or stranded wire of the same size is hardly even relevant (in a transmission line) at radio frequencies. At audio (which, from an RF standpoint, is indistinguishable from DC), it virtually doesn't exist.

Stranded is better from a mechanical standpoint, so go that way. You can solder directly onto the tabs on the NL4 jack or use the Faston terminals (which are more convenient if you have the right crimp terminals on hand). But if all you have on hand is solid, there's no electrical advantage or disadvantage to it.
 
Thanks for the replies...I decided to go out and get some stranded spools...4 colors of it.

And I tried to use solid to wire some up, and they were a royal pain, so quickly gave up on that :p .

Now for the faston terminals, is there any resistance going to be happening, as it doesn't have as strong of a connection compared to soldering? Perhaps I'm incorrect.

These cabinets are going to be out on rentals quite a bit, so a good bit of jostling may occur.
 
I like the Fastons- soldering on those terminals is a pain, especially with a larger gauge wire.

I wrap the whole Faston in electrical tape when I'm done, though, because I'm afraid that the pins are close enough together that they'll short if bumped too much.
 
Now for the faston terminals, is there any resistance going to be happening, as it doesn't have as strong of a connection compared to soldering? Perhaps I'm incorrect.
Any resistance is negligible.

The mechanical connection of the Faston tab is better than the contact made by solder in some cases.
 
Thanks everyone, looks like I'm going with faston connectors for the ease of wiring and repair.

When buying the faston's at one of the large electrical suppliers in my area, the sta-kon brand was over $40 for a box of 50. !!! I quickly went for the Ideal Electrical brand to find them much, much cheaper.

Now why were the sta-kon brand so darn high!? It was close to $1.00 for ONE 14-16 AWG!
 
Thanks everyone, looks like I'm going with faston connectors for the ease of wiring and repair.

When buying the faston's at one of the large electrical suppliers in my area, the sta-kon brand was over $40 for a box of 50. !!! I quickly went for the Ideal Electrical brand to find them much, much cheaper.

Now why were the sta-kon brand so darn high!? It was close to $1.00 for ONE 14-16 AWG!

Wow, the ones we got from Full Compass were $5 for 50...
 
Well, I purchased faston's at that same store for $5 for 50. Its just the sta-kon brand seemed to just be outrageous.

I understand you get what you pay for...but no one is going to know the difference between sta-kon or ideal? Oh well. Thanks for the help everyone and for your suggestions, made wiring the cabs a much easier task :cool:
 
Thanks everyone, looks like I'm going with faston connectors for the ease of wiring and repair.

When buying the faston's at one of the large electrical suppliers in my area, the sta-kon brand was over $40 for a box of 50. !!! I quickly went for the Ideal Electrical brand to find them much, much cheaper.

Now why were the sta-kon brand so darn high!? It was close to $1.00 for ONE 14-16 AWG!


the T&B sta kon crimps are one of the best out there. They are pricey, but not THAT pricey. My experiance has been, if you just walk into an electrical wholesaler and dont have an account you end up paying more than published list price.

The ideal terminals, while ok, are pretty much the same chinese crimps as anywhere else has. Good crimps are AMP/whatever tyco is calling them now, 3M, and T&B
 

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