stubborn screw in an xlr

[tweetersaway]

Hey, I have a couple cables that have been sitting around waiting for repair. I sat down to fix them today and the 2 choke screws came out fine, but the screw that holds the set of pins(a male connector) will not unscrew. I can get it turning, but it won't come out. So I tried the second cable, same thing. I can't think of what to do besides bore out the screw with a drill. Has anybody else had this problem? Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[Derrick]

That particular screw does not "come out". As you rotate it counter clockwise, it moves further into the body of the connector. At the point that it is fully recessed the pin assembly will be free and can be pushed out of the end of the connector body.

Yeah it's backwards from the standard.

 

[Anonymous067]

I remember stripping a few of these when I first repaired a cable with switchcraft ends on it...grrr.
Darn reverse threads....(kinda...)

 

[tweetersaway]

Thanks a ton. The only cables I'd had to fix before were cheapies with poor connectors. yet the screws on those ones make sense...

 

[FMEng]

That's the way a Switchcraft connector is built. The screw will never fall out. A major weakness of that connector is that the three little screws on Switcrafts tend to loosen over time. The best preventative maintenance you can do on mic cables is make sure the screw for the pins is tight and the two screws on the strain relief are snugish. The failure rate of cables will drop dramtically by doing that simple, tedious task.

In the case of the Neutrik connectors, make sure the strain relief is snug. If the cable is moving at all inside the connector, the connections WILL fail. Mr. Murphy ensures it'll happen at the worst possible time!

 

[rwhealey]

I saw the title and thought "Ugh... Switchcraft"

Whenever one of those rubber boots fails I don't bother with the screw, chop off the connector, and put on a Neutrik.

 

[Dionysus]

This is exactly why I've bought myself a stock of Neutrik ends. "Oh a switchcraft end is acting up...Where are my cutters? *snip* okay, let's put on a new end.".
Not only are the switchcraft ends finicky, but most OTHER people I find don't make sure that all is right with them, especially after taking them partway apart. Then they end up failing. Much easier to keep only neutrik ends around. they even have fewer parts!

 

[Anonymous067]

I saw the title and thought "Ugh... Switchcraft"

Whenever one of those rubber boots fails I don't bother with the screw, chop off the connector, and put on a Neutrik.

AMEN!!! .

 

[derekleffew]

It seems Switchcraft, with the AAA series, has a product for those who prefer not to deal with tiny screws and Greenies.

Switchcraft

 

[FMEng]

This is exactly why I've bought myself a stock of Neutrik ends. "Oh a switchcraft end is acting up...Where are my cutters? *snip* okay, let's put on a new end.".
Not only are the switchcraft ends finicky, but most OTHER people I find don't make sure that all is right with them, especially after taking them partway apart. Then they end up failing. Much easier to keep only neutrik ends around. they even have fewer parts!

I just built a bunch of new radio studios with Neutriks, so I do like them. However, they are not always better than Switchcraft. The A3F female still clicks onto most microphones more positively and easily than any other connector.

 

[CenterSpot]

I saw the title and thought "Ugh... Switchcraft"

Whenever one of those rubber boots fails I don't bother with the screw, chop off the connector, and put on a Neutrik.

Amen!

'nuff said.

 

[CenterSpot]

Tip;

How to ensure that rental cables get repaired before they are sent to the next job:

First, unsnap the Buck knife or Leatherman tool securely attached to belt holding pants above hips (pre circa 198?).
Remove tool from leather case.
Unfold sharpest blade.
Grasp cable FIRMLY with a 14" loop formed by placing the connector about 7" back along the length of cable.
Place sharpest blade at furthest end of loop, and draw quickly THROUGH the cable to sever it.
Return sharpest blade to it "at rest" position within tool.
Return tool to its' smooth leather resting place.
Grasp both loose ends of severed cable and tie into a knot.
Recoil cable into a proper coil and return it to the case/box/lump of crap delivered to you be rental/production company.
Disregard any feelings of guilt or instructions to fill out forms regarding defective or malfunctioning gear.

Consider the fact this cable WILL be repaired before returning to its' next venue.
You may now sigh and grin.

 

[Chris15]

Tip;

How to ensure that rental cables get repaired before they are sent to the next job:

First, unsnap the Buck knife or Leatherman tool securely attached to belt holding pants above hips (pre circa 198?).
Remove tool from leather case.
Unfold sharpest blade.
Grasp cable FIRMLY with a 14" loop formed by placing the connector about 7" back along the length of cable.
Place sharpest blade at furthest end of loop, and draw quickly THROUGH the cable to sever it.
Return sharpest blade to it "at rest" position within tool.
Return tool to its' smooth leather resting place.
Grasp both loose ends of severed cable and tie into a knot.
Recoil cable into a proper coil and return it to the case/box/lump of crap delivered to you be rental/production company.
Disregard any feelings of guilt or instructions to fill out forms regarding defective or malfunctioning gear.

Consider the fact this cable WILL be repaired before returning to its' next venue.
You may now sigh and grin.

So it was YOU who did that to my fibre...

Slice fibre with a leatherman and you might find that sharp blade meeting your body... For your sake I hope you understand how to keep your knife sharp.

Seriously though, as one who makes and fixes cables quite regularly, I'd prefer not to lose so much of the cable in one go. Preference is given to cutting just outside the connector boot. Side cutters or the cutting plier function on the leatherman will be less likely to take a gouge out of your blade...

Failing that, if you are sidelining a cable, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE mark what you think is wrong with it. Tape over a connector is a clear symbol. Else if one legged or something note that.

Now multicore faults... Please be sure to include ALL parts of the system, stage box, core and tails. Very rarely is it ever the stage box. Tape over it and I'll spend 5 seconds with a meter and then return the stage box to stock. Cables fail at flex points. Stage boxes with panel XLRs and panel multipins normally only ever need opening if an XLR becomes captive... And DO NOT even think about chopping a multipin connector off, you will surely be cursed by whomever repairs it.

Kapish?

 

[Dionysus]

Indeed with rented gear, if it is a single cable sometimes I will remove a defective end. The rest of the time I just tie a bigknot, or several in the cable and clearly mark it with a piece of spike tape, usually the classic "NFG - pin2" or such. THEN when I put it in it's case I put a piece of tape on the outside of the case and mark that "NFG cable inside" or such.
Same things with multipin cables, mark it on each end, put it away, mark the case. If I am feeling nice I will find the problem and clearly label it so the poor fellow who has to repair it doesn't have to track it down.
I've repaired enough cable in my day already. It sure is nice when things are made straightforward. Saves a LOT of time sometimes.

 

[TimMiller]

Tip;

How to ensure that rental cables get repaired before they are sent to the next job:

First, unsnap the Buck knife or Leatherman tool securely attached to belt holding pants above hips (pre circa 198?).
Remove tool from leather case.
Unfold sharpest blade.
Grasp cable FIRMLY with a 14" loop formed by placing the connector about 7" back along the length of cable.
Place sharpest blade at furthest end of loop, and draw quickly THROUGH the cable to sever it.
Return sharpest blade to it "at rest" position within tool.
Return tool to its' smooth leather resting place.
Grasp both loose ends of severed cable and tie into a knot.
Recoil cable into a proper coil and return it to the case/box/lump of crap delivered to you be rental/production company.
Disregard any feelings of guilt or instructions to fill out forms regarding defective or malfunctioning gear.

Consider the fact this cable WILL be repaired before returning to its' next venue.
You may now sigh and grin.

If you do that with one of my cables you will be getting a bill for a new one. All you have to do is mark it bad in spike or gaff, or masking tape, i dont care. As long as it is clearly marked. We do try to test all of our cables but some sneak through.

I also really dont like the person who bought me all switchcraft connectors to build cables with..........