Unknown Century Fresnel

ship

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Won this 8" Century Fresnel recently off E-Bay. More interested in 3" to 6" versions but of late I have mostly been losing the bids on them. Thought initially this was going to be a duplicate in larger size to a #3312 I already have and not of much value in being unique. Would have rather won something else, but it was a good price in my end bid as opposed to all else I’m bidding on seemingly exploding beyond budget in the last days.

Turns out this is very unique and now that I’m working on it I cannot define its part number. Most unique about it in never having seen any other fixture with such a thing before, it’s clutch cam is inside the fixture. That disc say on a ETC Leko that uses mechanical advantage to lock the fixture down at a position as opposed to the old style Altman 360 style tooth grip cam at the yoke bolt itself. This if provided at all. This crank style focus Fresnel has a clutch cam but it’s inside the fixture. Very unique castings to make it happen and on the opposing side, another aluminum casting part for mounting the yoke. This also with nuts added behind the threaded aluminum as per over loosening stops. Normal nuts not side lock types but still a good idea. Interesting brass plunger also to retain the lens assembly.

Various hex head nuts in us say this fixture is post say 1947, its use of slotted truss head screws I think dates it back to the mid-50's thru mid-60's say in date. Round head slotted screws to mount the lampholder and panhead for the base further dates it but overall truss head dates the fixture. Perhaps for the early to mid-60's I think given it has three grommeted holes on it’s rear thus a ground wire.

Curious about the end users of the fixture? Someone at some point re-wired it for 18/3 SPT zip cord at some point. Conductors were shoved thru the grommeted holes directly to the base - asbestos pad under the base was intact still, the ground wire was not put into the clamp part of a grounding post mounted outside the fixture but instead installed un-stripped under it. Believe given three holes for wiring on the fixture it was meant for a ground wire attached to the frame somewhere - though I’m yet to see a hole not used for doing so in the normal places on the fixture. Perhaps grounded under the reflector or somewhere else. Still though the I think added ground bracket in being curious itself and never seen before plus unique for it’s style isn’t original to the fixture given the third grommeted hole in the fixture.

Curious also... ok someone that last wired it don’t know beans about a 1Kw fresnel in wiring it with 18/3 SPT wire but at least they removed most of the asbestos for me. Ok, someone added a grounding lug to the outside of the fixture under the slide rail in the past... that’s interesting but stay ok... the last person that wired the fixture didn’t put the wire into the terminal, they put the insulated and non-stripped wire under this groundig lug and tightened it down as such. And given the grounding pin of this molded plug was removed... perhaps a good thing. And the ground magically jumps between frame and what ever if there is a problem. At least the end user was honest in it not being grounded. For the life of me I cannot understand why someone would go to the trouble of installing an added ground terminal and beyond not putting the wire into it, not even strip the wire mounted under it. Yea I got no clue.

Still it’s a curious fixture I have never seen before in clutch cam inside the fixture. Was a rust pot with surface rust all about it, and the base will take a total resurfacing but be saved. Have to replace a few nuts and asbestos pad for it plus the wiring and drill out a strain relief but should be a good fixture once done. Curious fixture in not existing for now but nice fixture once done. Had to Dremmel out a few stripped/rusted screws and didn't fully remove the base by of two screws that are solid. Still though all good and done in re-painting and saving it's metal surfaces.

Didn’t take much in wire wheeling off the rust and chipping the textured paint flaking sufficient to re-paint in solving the surface rust problem. Won’t take long in tapping various screws the next step to get it back to working order. Nice fixture, what fixture is it?
 
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Ship, how are you resurfacing the base on it? I've got some similar fixtures I'm redoing with slightly bad bases.

Though this was my first P-40s base resurfaced, it was the same as with the rest of the similar bases past discussed with the dremmel with brass wire wheel for the outer shell and silicone abrasive fiber for the center contact.


Do a websearch into lampholders or resurfacing and you no doubt will find part numbers in source. In this case, the first base I found as easy to take apart as it was. Made it much easier to surface though difficult to re-assemble. Following surfacing a coat of contact cleaner with lubricant. In addition to the base also cleaned the contacts to it from the wiring. When I go to re-wire, I'll add some Bronze lockwashers under the screw termianals and use heat rated ring terminals with fiberglass electrical tape over the barrel part of it over the zip cord wound around the terminal method used in the past.

Do a serch on the website into resurfacing, spoke many times about it in the past as have others given help on the on the concept.
 
[Just finished with my Century (unknown part number) 8" Fresnel. Re-installed it's bad lamp into it as I didn't have a fesh one and or it's a colorful reason why the seller if he don't know electrics, shouldn't be plugging in stuff he don't know. Urr, gee, as far as I know this fixture worked and the lamp only blew when I went to test it. 18/3 SPT zip cord feeding a 1Kw fixture... I would be a bit suspisious about plugging it in but the lamp is now blown so no matter.

Got the crank handle for focus and interior clutch disc lock. Also slotted truss head screws with some round head screws. Even a few lock washers in use but only a few and a mixture of brass and zinc or non-plated steel screws with bronze and aluminum parts in combination with the plate steel. Thinking about mid to early 1960's for it. Lens in checking was Century which is new to me in thinking by this point Kopp or Major made most of the Fresnel lenses.

Never found the original fixture ground for the fixture in seeing a third hole for a ground, this other than a exterior mounted clamp of the wrong gauge I think after market. Reinstalled that clamp even if not used. Perhaps this was a non-grounded version as possibly available if cheaper. A few other lock washers, changing out a few screws for stainless steel especially if in direct contact with aluminum, but overall keeping it all slotted and with the goal of round head or truss head. Had to re-tap and replace a broken screw on the yoke for 10-32 but overall most screws on it are original.

Given the likely possibly of a replaced base which has pan-head slotted screws to mount it, I went with pan-head stainless to also to mount it in addition to Teflon washers under the head to shock mount the mounting. New concepts amongst a few used overall to bring the fixture up to date but keep it’s essence. Think it more valuable now than the like $25.00 I bought it for given it’s able to be used again as per intent and improved on in small details important now. Had normal stop nuts at the yoke but didn’t have side lock stop nuts for such places - stuff like that in replacing as needed or better technology.

Onto the next project, got this like 50's I think era stand light with scooped hood to it I just got yesterday. Base is toast and it’s interesting where the wire is coming out but antique it is. Was initially thinking spare parts but I think I’ll fix it instead. Curious fixture in itself and about to be thrown out as with lots of gear at Good Will. That and today’s Mole single cell Mole FAY fixture. Can’t read the part number, the whole thing is coated in blue paint for some reason. Name plate in removing the blue paint without removing the paint or ink off the stamped plate to the fixture will be interesting. Thinking paint remover for it a bit at a time in wanting to see the coloring of the name plate. Than sand blasting the blue and all other paint off the fixture. Luckily Mole Richardson still sells their original Mole Maroon color in spray paint. Hopefully it will once I make a chrome yoke to it, become just as decorative a fixture as the two light unit or the wash light fixtures I fixed up a few months ago. In a living room, nothing more decorative than a dichroic coated FAY lamp housed in a Mole fixture. Love Mole fixtures from the 10K Fresnel in making it the same or even making it 1Kw or LED, to the Mole Ellipsols a few months ago I did a total service call to and brought back to factory specification or better on.

Mole fixtures are bullet proof mostly in only the bases breaking for the most part. This as opposed to tonight in re-assembly on the Century fixture me re-breaking the lens holder spring catch assembly in a way I cannot fix in working. That has to be replaced with something that hopefully accepts the 6-32 knob atop it. Mental note to self, if brass spring latch to lens assembly, don’t over-tighten in a normal tension assuming it was steel. Totally my fault in breaking it and expecting a antique brass screw thread would accept normal tension. That would detract from value a lot unless I can find a suitable replacement and even with it, getting the screw knob top to fit on it as normally these days pull ring not knob. If well done perhaps not much in value lost, if not as much a lot in losing character of the fixture.
 
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