Design Zip Cord Basics

20240121_141130.jpg
 
The lights I'm using are LED not exceeding 10w. I expect to be using 3.5W lights, though. I am very confused
18 gauge zip cord would be fine. If the cable might be exposed to damage, like a lot of foot traffic or wheels, then use jacketed cable. Even if it were 180 Watts, I'd still use the zip cord. The loss of few volts really doesn't matter on some "practicals."
 
Oh, it was my understanding that circuit breakers protected the wire from overheating and catching fire if there was too much draw on the line.

If that doesn't apply here, what wire would be safe to use? I was looking at 12/2 NM-B wire, is that appropriate?
Specifically, an overcurrent protection device (Code-speak for "breaker or fuse") exists in the switchboard (Code-speak for breaker or fuse box) to protect the Branch Circuit wiring and wiring devices between the overcurrent protection device and the outlet(s) or wiring box for a lighting fixture). The overcurrent protection device is not intended to protect the LOAD connected to the outlet or a lighting fixture/ceiling fan/etc. Loads that need lower-rated protection have that protection built into the device or assembly (like the little fuse in the holiday light strings, or a fuse or circuit breaker on appliance or device).
 
The breakers might still pop. Time for the 80% rule.

Most breakers and fuses are rated for short term use, officially under 3 hours. Heat can build up in a system over time and get you back into trouble. For continuous use the rating is 80% of of full. Add to that aging breakers will trip sooner and that you don't want an issue during a show. So it's a practicality and safety issue.

Many other technologies seem to work in the same way. Limit yourself to 80% and be cool and reliable. :cool:
 
I think I just figured out why some of our lights are out.

You can't put 4 575W source four Jrs on a 15 amp dimmer


Nevermind. They are 20 amp dimmers. Leviton DDS6000s
The pack itself is rated for 20A, but what is it plugged into?

A standard breaker is only 80% rated for continuous loads, so a 2300W load (4*575) can eventually trip a 20A breaker. The amount of time that takes depends on tolerances of the breaker and ambient temperature. Breakers in larger dimmer racks are often 100% rated, so they can handle closer to their nominal rating without a time limit or temperature sensitivity.
 
If you told us the bulbs were LED the first time, I missed it. Much of the math goes out the window as the loads become negligible. However, one can't just throw x amount of any old LED bulb onto a dimmer marked "For tungsten loads only" and expect to get a smooth dimming curve from 100% to 0%. If you don't mind. tthe lights popping on at 10-20% and popping off the same, you may be okay. Sad to say, it's a matter of keeping your expectations low so you won't be disappointed.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back