One problem with using non SWD breakers constantly as switches is it can diminish the primary resson a cct. breaker exists at all - to protect against overload and short circuit. Edison fuses however, AFAIC... would be fine, just give 'em a twist!You also have to evaluate the cost of failure. If that breaker that wasn't designed for switching duty does fail, it's probably going to fail to turn on. At that point you're either going without whatever it powers, or making an emergency electrician hire to swap it out--possibly after hours and on a weekend...
I've never used one to failure, so I can't say for sure whether it would gradually become intermittent and give you a little warning that it's on the verge, or if one day it just won't latch on without much warning.
Over my 60 years in doing electrical work in theatres and other places I've used breakers (and seen breakers used) as switches umpteen times with rarely any failures, either failure to function as switch or failure to trip on a short. Besides, changing a breaker, either plug in or bolted, is a 10 minute job w/a couple screwdrivers (and maybe your flashlight if you wanna pull the main), and one should always have a few appropriate branch circuit breakers in one's kit on any job.You also have to evaluate the cost of failure. If that breaker that wasn't designed for switching duty does fail, it's probably going to fail to turn on. At that point you're either going without whatever it powers, or making an emergency electrician hire to swap it out--possibly after hours and on a weekend...
I've never used one to failure, so I can't say for sure whether it would gradually become intermittent and give you a little warning that it's on the verge, or if one day it just won't latch on without much warning.
Over my 60 years in doing electrical work in theatres and other places I've used breakers (and seen breakers used) as switches umpteen times with rarely any failures, either failure to function as switch or failure to trip on a short. Besides, changing a breaker, either plug in or bolted, is a 10 minute job w/a couple screwdrivers (and maybe your flashlight if you wanna pull the main), and one should always have a few appropriate branch circuit breakers in one's kit on any job.
Just need a Fox & Hound. But I'm not the only electrician with a u-blade 120v cord cap wired to a 30a HD toggle switch... but then again I also still test for 120v using my thumb and index finger, and because of callouses I have to lick them first.Oh hell no it's not. I watched this in amazement. They did not own a trace kit. They were the first electrical contractor hired on out big renovation and subsequently fired when I found them ignoring the plans and failing to run a neutral with every hot wire (dimmed circuits), they were doing as neutral for every 3. They were gone a week after I complained.
Actually, this is not funny. Since I surmise from your profile that you have about 20 minutes of experience in this industry, I suggest that you refrain from promoting unprofessional and potentially life-threatening techniques on this forum, which has a wide audience--some of whom lack the experience to turn on their BS filter when reading your posts.
Often a "bolted short" doesn't pass enough current to trip a main. Which is why I honestly believe that all major equipment utilize fused disconnects, which are pretty common in large-motor control centers, because a locked rotor or a bogged down motor might not trip it's protective breaker's trip curve before the motor windings melt down, and rewinding a motor isn't cheap.I saw a 100A breaker fail, weld itself to the bus, and melt neighboring breakers and bus. Ended up a full panel replacement. (To be fair, the new panel is much prettier).
I also saw, in my face, an unseen 20A circuit fail to trip ANYTHING (including the main) when I discovered it the hard way- grounding it to an electrical box. Not even the main tripped.
Sorry I said that tongue in cheek, my bad.Actually, this is not funny. Since I surmise from your profile that you have about 20 minutes of experience in this industry, I suggest that you refrain from promoting unprofessional and potentially life-threatening techniques on this forum, which has a wide audience--some of whom lack the experience to turn on their BS filter when reading your posts.
Here's a novel piece of advice: stop trying to be funny and listen to the experts on this forum and you might learn something.
ST
It's always been my understanding that *anywhere in the US*, you have to be a licensed electrician (not necessarily a licensed contractor; different people, different goal) to work on anything except a single family home that you own and live in, as you suggest... and that this is driven by *fire insurors* more than anything else.In many jurisdictions, basically any electrical work (outside of a single-family home that you live in and own) is required to be done by a licensed electrician. Yes, it's a simple task, but not one you can legally do without that license (unless you're sure your jurisdiction doesn't require a license for that type of work).
It's always been my understanding that *anywhere in the US*, you have to be a licensed electrician (not necessarily a licensed contractor; different people, different goal) to work on anything except a single family home that you own and live in, as you suggest... and that this is driven by *fire insurors* more than anything else.
It's not any sort of accident that the National Electrical Code is NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) 70, nor that the Underwriters who have the Laboratories are all *insurance* underwriters; in the US at least, the underlying prinicpal is "insurance carriers not having to make payouts", it's not by any means altruism, nor reverence for life.
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