Glad you found my or other catalog agues in saving me time.. Just to see if I have a reflector in spare parts. Your paint sounds really good in temperature rating - about that of 200C high temperature wiring. Hope it works out well.. Also I think related to the concept of pinkle paint but not the same. I have spent time in making paint color plates a few years ago in just figuring out what paint does what. It is really tough to reproproduce old paint. This if applied to a clean surface it will stick to. Are you fully restoring the fixture in sand blasting and starting over? I don't normally even go that far unless I have to. You should advertise that brand etc. But paint sticking to surface, depends on prep. work (Glue don't stick to dirt). A caution, but great you found the paint style which is rated for at least as much as the wiring TBD to use.
So given the extent of your research, you are just doing Matt Black - which is not a high temp color... Or I would have to search the above painted plates for a high temp. Matt Black. And you have some form of silver in stock, perhaps modeling paint silver. Stop, don't do it. What silver is in place, could be origional and if what's left of it has survived this long, and would probably survive especially if clean longer. If it's what someone applied, it seemingly worked with the heat
Can you effectively clean the silver paint inside of it so as to apply new silver paint you have in stock to apply it? What's the rating of your silver paint? Are you the next generation of dupe thinking that a silvered interior will help in output, and years later your paint just peeling off? Leave it alone and as is.
Remove the J-Box? I suspect it isn't in the documents for the fixture for removing and an added part?
Question overall. Are you trying to fully, fully restore this light back to it's made new factory spec? Are you trying to restore it back to factory Spec. but perfectly museum grade used condition I normally go for, or are you going for resale or other purpose? If resale, re-wiring and resurfaced lamp sockets are more valuable than otherwise restored. But after that restored is normally good to used condition but factory spec.
Not sure where you are going with your project. Its it's paint so badly falling off or corroded that you need to sand blast and replace it? Certainly at that point you are replacing all fasteners or re-tapping and coating them.
That also, you have not much mentioned the elephant in the room, wiring, lamp socket and grounding as the most important parts of a restoration. Paint if needed... a bad lamp socket is bad, wiring another.
I as a goal bought a 4.1/2" lighting fixture.. 20 years ago which if plugged in wrong would electriy the pin-rail thus all the grid except for some electrically isolating rigged balls rigged between lighting pipes and the rigging. It was a 1911 Crows foot outlet it was plugged in.
It was simple as a wiring short to frame, but while learning wiring fixtures was important. This as with a bad lamp socket study, a perfectly good lamp into a bad lamp socket will last about 100 hours less than the lamp replaced.
A fixture buyer wants a safe product they can plug in. You as the seller, person working on the fixture, returning it to use. are liable. Now that you have researched the light... what are you doing to make it factory spec or better in a wiring way.
So given the extent of your research, you are just doing Matt Black - which is not a high temp color... Or I would have to search the above painted plates for a high temp. Matt Black. And you have some form of silver in stock, perhaps modeling paint silver. Stop, don't do it. What silver is in place, could be origional and if what's left of it has survived this long, and would probably survive especially if clean longer. If it's what someone applied, it seemingly worked with the heat
Can you effectively clean the silver paint inside of it so as to apply new silver paint you have in stock to apply it? What's the rating of your silver paint? Are you the next generation of dupe thinking that a silvered interior will help in output, and years later your paint just peeling off? Leave it alone and as is.
Remove the J-Box? I suspect it isn't in the documents for the fixture for removing and an added part?
Question overall. Are you trying to fully, fully restore this light back to it's made new factory spec? Are you trying to restore it back to factory Spec. but perfectly museum grade used condition I normally go for, or are you going for resale or other purpose? If resale, re-wiring and resurfaced lamp sockets are more valuable than otherwise restored. But after that restored is normally good to used condition but factory spec.
Not sure where you are going with your project. Its it's paint so badly falling off or corroded that you need to sand blast and replace it? Certainly at that point you are replacing all fasteners or re-tapping and coating them.
That also, you have not much mentioned the elephant in the room, wiring, lamp socket and grounding as the most important parts of a restoration. Paint if needed... a bad lamp socket is bad, wiring another.
I as a goal bought a 4.1/2" lighting fixture.. 20 years ago which if plugged in wrong would electriy the pin-rail thus all the grid except for some electrically isolating rigged balls rigged between lighting pipes and the rigging. It was a 1911 Crows foot outlet it was plugged in.
It was simple as a wiring short to frame, but while learning wiring fixtures was important. This as with a bad lamp socket study, a perfectly good lamp into a bad lamp socket will last about 100 hours less than the lamp replaced.
A fixture buyer wants a safe product they can plug in. You as the seller, person working on the fixture, returning it to use. are liable. Now that you have researched the light... what are you doing to make it factory spec or better in a wiring way.
