ACL Bar Wiring
- Thread starterDuckJordan
- Start date
DuckJordan
Touring IATSE Member
DuckJordan
Touring IATSE Member
I was more wondering if anyone had some ideas for the series wiring for those just in case moments of one going out and not loosing the whole string but, considering its just a special we wont need it to be perfect 100% of the time.
Er...you're not really getting how series wiring works. There's no way of getting around that, unless you want to knock the voltage for each light down to 28V with a transformer. Then each fixture would need its own 120V power supply.
DuckJordan
Touring IATSE Member
unless you did a transformer on each and ran basically a powerstrip inside the bar 
. Thats what i was getting at.
. Thats what i was getting at.
You could always use a 28V transformer of suitable size and connect the ACLs in parallel...
DuckJordan
Touring IATSE Member
How would you guys suggest running the power inside the pipe? considering I'll need bolts running through for the yolks and stands/clamps as well as strain relief.
I wouldn't. Technically, it's not permissible for the wiring and suspension hardware to share the same space. (Yes, most PAR-bar s are technically illegal.) Plus it's a pain in the neck to fish and connect the wires.
- Are you starting with unwired cans (or do you plan to remove all the existing fixture wiring)?
- Are you planning for four intermediate connections between the bar and the fixtures? If so, which connector? Many six-bar s and four-bar s don't have any intermediate connectors. Thus the Socapex or load connector must be unplugged before relamping safely.
- What will the line connector be?
- Will you be using Heyco or similar cable gland at the five penetrations?
- GE 4552 or 4559 lamps?
The simplest method (not necessarily the recommended or approved one. (There is no way ANY ACL can ever be fully code-compliant)):
Build an ACL harness using 5' of 14/3 (12/3 if 4559 s) SJO, four female 2P&G connectors*, and one male 2P&G
Tape the harness to
A 60" piece of 50mm aluminum tube, which has been drilled with four 3/8" holes on 15" centers
Take eight short (1"-4") pieces of #12 THHN, crimp an insulated fork (spade) terminal on one end and a 1/4" flat (quick-connect) terminal to the other. (Some people just use a forked connector on both ends.) Build several extras, also attach two to every spare ACL lamp.
This method allows you to keep the MEP socket installed, making for easy conversion back to a normal PAR64 can. The "adapters" stay with the ACL lamps, reducing the need for a slotted screwdriver in the air.
*Alternatively, use L5-15 connectors on the harness and on your cans to prevent a mis-plug into 120V. Otherwise, lots of e-tape and "standard" connectors, VERY clearly-labeled!
Strongly consider plugging/filling the lamp access hole in the can. Some mgfs. sell cans without a hole, or use two 4" circles of sheet metal pop-riveted together, one outside and the other inside, the hole.
Electricity is dangerous and can cause deadly bodily harm. The above is NOT a recommendation by Control Booth, nor by the author. It is merely stating a practice or procedure of some in the industry. When in doubt, always consult a documented professional, in person.
EDIT: Or,
PAR Bar ACL 4 Unit (Black Hardwired) | Used Lighting - Used Stage & Theatrical Lighting Equipment, LED Lighting, Trussing . A fair and reasonable price considering all the labor involved.
http://www.usedlighting.com/images/products/f4ee7f4955772d.jpg
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If you insist on keeping all the wiring inside the bar (as pictured above), get 5 pieces of pull string at least 6' long. Color code or mark them them at each end so you can tell which is which. Thread one end through each of the wiring holes, then all five out one end of the pipe/tube. Build the entire harness outside the bar. Use crimp butt splices--NO MORE WIRE [-]HANGERS[/-] nuts, EVAR! Tape each pullstring to the appropriate cable tail through its proper hole. Then pull the entire harness into the bar. Affix the cable glands. Thread each cable through its can and crimp your fork terminals. Pop-rivet or bolt the ground wire to the can in an unpainted area. Affix the cable glands. Much easier than the ship in a bottle approach.
Electricity is dangerous and can cause deadly bodily harm. The above is NOT a recommendation by Control Booth, nor by the author. It is merely stating a practice or procedure of some in the industry. When in doubt, always consult a documented professional, in person.
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JD
Well-Known Member
Did a similar thing to what was pictured above, but used 2x2 square channel. Also, I removed all the original whips and threaded Teflon wire straight through the fiberglass sheathes and into the channel. (glands, of course.) The idea behind this was that there were no connections in the box channel. Wire would leave one screw terminal, loop through the sheath, run in the channel down through the next sheath and to the next terminal. Same with the main power whip. Less connections = less problems.
As was stated above, there is no official code approved way to wire ACLs.
One thing I did try once was to use an old core from a 2.4k auto-transformer and hardwired four taps. Worked great but was a pain to carry around! From an artistic point of view, it allowed you to run odd numbers of lamps. On that setup, the input was a stage pin plug, and the output was four 3 blade non-conventional twist locks. Even seamed to work fine on dimmers.
As was stated above, there is no official code approved way to wire ACLs.
One thing I did try once was to use an old core from a 2.4k auto-transformer and hardwired four taps. Worked great but was a pain to carry around! From an artistic point of view, it allowed you to run odd numbers of lamps. On that setup, the input was a stage pin plug, and the output was four 3 blade non-conventional twist locks. Even seamed to work fine on dimmers.
