Architectural Lighting
- Thread starterishboo
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ishboo
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I'm lighting the exterior through the interior though I may light both. Our theatre has the huge windows in the lobby so I am going to do a lot through those with lights on the inside but designed to be viewed from the outside. There is also a large brick wall to the side of those windows that I am planning on doing some projections on.
My general suggestions for any project that is exterior--Bring extra everything...and backups for everything...including tarps & cable ramps/crossovers & plan your power needs & paths well.... Dress warm, and plan for rain in spite of 'normal weather'....especially where your control will be.. Make your cable pathway plans now for where they cross traffic areas--and minimize them as best as you can etc... If lighting thru glass--expect to have reflections from the glass that can mess with you.
For design tips--Use the shape of the buildings, columns, walls and exterior to your advantage for highlighting and shadowing, and for texture and color contrasting and blending.. If projecting gobo's, media or logo's via the movers, also have a static fixture with a gobo as a backup plan. Also have some extra uplight cans or leko's or smaller fresnels and treepacks for some last minute highlites you may notice with you...
Check the areas around the facility for trees shrubs & plants--and use them to your advantage if possible to hide cable runs or highlite with lighting contrast. ALSO--please check for SPRINKLERS in the ground and make sure the groundskeepers know you are coming...make sure the sprinkler timers get turned OFF. Sometimes the client may not 'know' or have the influence to alter some building routines on short notice--this should be planned for well in advance and confirmed..and get a phone number of the grounds chief..
If you have not visited the space in the evening--visit it more then one night and check it out...Things look different at night--some stone & marble can get very reflective. Dark Brick or stone can absorb some light...bring a swatchbook and get some color ideas. Looking at the natural lighting of the archtecture if there is any--see if you can compliment it. Look for what other lights are around you may have to compete with i.e. traffic going by, parking lot lights (what kind and type of light?) or streetlamps.... and what general traffic is like, parking, walk ways, pedestrians etc.. If you are blocking off areas for scaffolding, staging, platforms or towers & truss--check for level ground areas...measure it out.
POWER is always a concern--make sure you have extra cable runs as well as control plans... Wireless DMX works GREAT in architectural lighting...one less able to wrap up. Control area--don't forget a lamp or two by the console...and flashlights for all your crew..
For movers on the ground or roof eaves--best to build yourself a small RAISED wooden platform (at least 3 inches high) for each fixture to avoid puddling or standing water and keep it up off the surface in case of drainage needs (paint them black to blend in)... Have other black plywood squares with you if needed...and bring SHIMS to level things you need to under a fixture and sandbags for road case wheels. Plastic Bags for ALL your connectors are also a must have...even if you don't get rain you can get dew and mosture close to the ground. If using normal black cables--you don't want to 'forget' a cable in the dark--so if you can make sure you get a good count and possibly brightly tape the end of the cable so it can be seen and noticed at night. The connector can be bagged and hidden while in use--but during strike it can easily be forgotten....
Tons more to think on....others will fill in the blanks that I don't have time to type right now...but that should get you started...hope it helps. I've lit a number of corporate events, festivals and building openings and parties--exterior lighting is fun...so enjoy it and be creative especially with the themes...
-w
For design tips--Use the shape of the buildings, columns, walls and exterior to your advantage for highlighting and shadowing, and for texture and color contrasting and blending.. If projecting gobo's, media or logo's via the movers, also have a static fixture with a gobo as a backup plan. Also have some extra uplight cans or leko's or smaller fresnels and treepacks for some last minute highlites you may notice with you...
Check the areas around the facility for trees shrubs & plants--and use them to your advantage if possible to hide cable runs or highlite with lighting contrast. ALSO--please check for SPRINKLERS in the ground and make sure the groundskeepers know you are coming...make sure the sprinkler timers get turned OFF. Sometimes the client may not 'know' or have the influence to alter some building routines on short notice--this should be planned for well in advance and confirmed..and get a phone number of the grounds chief..
If you have not visited the space in the evening--visit it more then one night and check it out...Things look different at night--some stone & marble can get very reflective. Dark Brick or stone can absorb some light...bring a swatchbook and get some color ideas. Looking at the natural lighting of the archtecture if there is any--see if you can compliment it. Look for what other lights are around you may have to compete with i.e. traffic going by, parking lot lights (what kind and type of light?) or streetlamps.... and what general traffic is like, parking, walk ways, pedestrians etc.. If you are blocking off areas for scaffolding, staging, platforms or towers & truss--check for level ground areas...measure it out.
POWER is always a concern--make sure you have extra cable runs as well as control plans... Wireless DMX works GREAT in architectural lighting...one less able to wrap up. Control area--don't forget a lamp or two by the console...and flashlights for all your crew..
For movers on the ground or roof eaves--best to build yourself a small RAISED wooden platform (at least 3 inches high) for each fixture to avoid puddling or standing water and keep it up off the surface in case of drainage needs (paint them black to blend in)... Have other black plywood squares with you if needed...and bring SHIMS to level things you need to under a fixture and sandbags for road case wheels. Plastic Bags for ALL your connectors are also a must have...even if you don't get rain you can get dew and mosture close to the ground. If using normal black cables--you don't want to 'forget' a cable in the dark--so if you can make sure you get a good count and possibly brightly tape the end of the cable so it can be seen and noticed at night. The connector can be bagged and hidden while in use--but during strike it can easily be forgotten....
Tons more to think on....others will fill in the blanks that I don't have time to type right now...but that should get you started...hope it helps. I've lit a number of corporate events, festivals and building openings and parties--exterior lighting is fun...so enjoy it and be creative especially with the themes...
-w
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