Thanks for reaching out, Jim.Hello TJ,
Sorry for the delay in response. As was noted above, I was at LDI last week.
I am sorry that you are not pleased with the performance of your 36 degree EDLT lens tube. As my coworker, David, mentioned earlier, while the EDLT lens tubes are much better than a standard lens tube, there can still be some imperfections in the imaging in certain circumstances that can really only be remedied with a more complex, and expensive, optical system. And, as was also noted in some of the comments, the 36 degree will suffer from this more than the narrower lenses.
I see that you intend to test the EDLT against other solutions. I am glad you are planning this as we welcome the comparison and I am very eager to see your results. Please let me know what you find.
If you have any more questions that I can answer or you would like to discuss this offline, please let me know.
Jim Uphoff
ETC
Thanks for reaching out, Jim.
My incredulity comes from the fact that others are apparently fine with extremely poor gobo projection. In a field where subtlety and nuance are obsessed over, unfocusable gobos being acceptable seems incongruous. I'm not a theater guy; my world is rock n' roll and corporate stuff, so apparently my requirements are different, and/or nobody else uses gobos.
For what it's worth, I would gladly pay at least 50% more for an "EDLT v2" that had a flat focal plane at wider beam angles.
I understand, however what I'm trying to do is project a large gobo image on a wall/curtain. Making it smaller via a narrower lens tube or a smaller gobo image defeats the purpose unless I can significantly increase my throw distance, which is almost never possible.Another thing you could try would be to change the size of the pattern on the gobo itself. The smaller the pattern (meaning the more distance from the edge of the glass) the cleaner the imaging will be on the wall.
Of course, this will also change the size of the image on the wall so you would have to take that into account.
Jim
It depends on what I want the fixture to do - if I want a hard-edged circle, shutters don't help me and I need to focus to the open beam. If some other shape, then certainly focusing to the shutters makes sense.Thanks for taking the time to put together a nice set of results. Very informative.
As a side-note curiosity, when you focus the fixture to a hard edge, are you doing it to the edge of the circle or to the edge of a shutter? In my experience, sharp to shutter produces a better beam with a few more lumens than eyeballing the edge of the ellipse, and it offers a consistent point of reference across all lens tube flavors which is useful when using frost.
The shutters are also relatively close to the accessory slot in a S4 so you shouldn't have to travel too far to get that sharp once you're sharp to shutter. I'm not sure how the gate's focal point relates to using the lens tube as the focal point in terms of distance between the two.
Hey Ford, I'm actually looking for a fixed gobo projection setup so I don't have to tie up a mover to do static looks. The top of my wishlist is a leko lens tube with a flat focal plane. Evaluating the Ovation lens tube was the main objective; the LED engine was just a bonus.Hi TJ,
I wish the rep had brought a E160 or E260 (or, for Color an E910), I think you’d have been happier with the performance of the LED.
THE ED190 is not as well optimized.
The good news is that we’re working on an upgrade to the ED190 that should make you pretty happy...
The bad news is that the rep brought you the oldest possible fixture to test this with.
Harrumph.
Overall though, it sounds like you’re looking for a moving head, instead of a leko.
Just tell me if you want anything else to shoot-out.
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