I'm trying to set up a new option for our church lighting. Currently we use circuit breakers to turn on and off the house lights. We also have DMX controls for stage lights but I would like to be able to control the house lights from the control board. However there are times when people need to use the house lights but not the stage lights and so I'd like to have the option to have a another control for them. What is the best way to connect the house lights to DMX control and also have a free-standing switch for General usage? I purchased a fleenor controls preset 10 DMX recorder but have since realized that I would also need to get a DMX merger in order to make that work are there other options? Thanks.
Dual lighting control options
- Thread starterLoren97
- Start date
JD
Well-Known Member
Circuit breakers should NEVER be used as switches, unless they were specifically designed for that use. (none come to mind)
Short of installing a dimmer system for the house lights, you could have a contractor install low voltage contactors (relays) to control the house lights, and then run the contactors from a DMX interface. I would check the price option of that as well as having architectural dimmers installed. There may not be that big a difference. If that is the case, then go for the dimmers and be done with it. You can get DMX architectural lighting switches that can be programed to bring up a general "house light" preset at the push of a button.
Short of installing a dimmer system for the house lights, you could have a contractor install low voltage contactors (relays) to control the house lights, and then run the contactors from a DMX interface. I would check the price option of that as well as having architectural dimmers installed. There may not be that big a difference. If that is the case, then go for the dimmers and be done with it. You can get DMX architectural lighting switches that can be programed to bring up a general "house light" preset at the push of a button.
microstar
Well-Known Member
One of the problems will be how much wattage your houselights consume. Are we talking about 10 fixtures at 300 watts each or 40 fixtures at 500 watts each? Makes a pretty big difference when you plan to put them on dimmers or relays. Your best approach would be to put them on DMX dimmers so they can also be controlled by the stage lighting console.
You don't need a DMX merger because the PRE10 is designed to be inserted in the DMX line between your console and house and stage dimmers. When the console is on, the PRE10 locks itself out. When the console is off, the PRE10A then has control of whatever you set up on your console and record into it. You can test this by wiring up male and female DMX connectors to the terminals on the PRE10, plug the male connector in to the console, then plug the DMX connector from the dimmers into the female connector and apply power to the PRE10.
Not sure you've thoroughly digested the Fleenor instruction manual. If confused, give them a call and they can guide you thru it.
I've installed many of these, and they always work perfectly.
JD, the circuit breaker situation was long before my time. At some point someone installed a bank of switches in what is now an inconvenient location and the reason that I'm trying to upgrade.
Microstar, that is really helpful information! You're correct that I did not thoroughly digest the manual.
My original plan was a combination of what you both said. I planned to use lighting contactors switched on by cheap portable dimmer packs.
However, I've had several of my portable dimmer packs go haywire recently (lights coming on full by themselves) and I want to make sure that my next step is more professional and less "rigged". As always, price is issue. My annual budget the last two years was about $2k. I'm thinking about pitching something bigger...maybe a ETC smartpack?
Previously the house lights were a dozen 400w MH beasts. I recently replaced them with some 32w LED flood bulbs so my draw is wayyyyyyy down. There's also some giant chandeliers (that aren't going anywhere) and a couple of surface mounted lights that I can upgrade to LED also. All said, I think I could get it on 4 channels, but 6 would probably be better. Draw would be less than 10A per channel.
And I still want to be able to control it all from my lighting board (Jands Stage CL) and that Preset10 Wall switch.
What will be expandable, dependable and not break the bank?
Microstar, that is really helpful information! You're correct that I did not thoroughly digest the manual.
My original plan was a combination of what you both said. I planned to use lighting contactors switched on by cheap portable dimmer packs.
However, I've had several of my portable dimmer packs go haywire recently (lights coming on full by themselves) and I want to make sure that my next step is more professional and less "rigged". As always, price is issue. My annual budget the last two years was about $2k. I'm thinking about pitching something bigger...maybe a ETC smartpack?
Previously the house lights were a dozen 400w MH beasts. I recently replaced them with some 32w LED flood bulbs so my draw is wayyyyyyy down. There's also some giant chandeliers (that aren't going anywhere) and a couple of surface mounted lights that I can upgrade to LED also. All said, I think I could get it on 4 channels, but 6 would probably be better. Draw would be less than 10A per channel.
And I still want to be able to control it all from my lighting board (Jands Stage CL) and that Preset10 Wall switch.
What will be expandable, dependable and not break the bank?
microstar
Well-Known Member
There is a Lightronics AR1202 12x2400 watt dimmer and a AR602 6x2400 watt on Ebay well worth the money. They are made for architectural applications. I've installed several with very few problems after long-term use. They use two 65A SCR's in each 20A module. Disclaimer: I'm a Lightronics dealer.
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RickR
Well-Known Member
You may have misspoken, but driving a contactor with a dimmer is just a bad idea. There are many DMX driven relay panels available. There are also architectural relay panels that use other communications with the button stations. There are also DMX to contact closure devices if you want to stick with a contactor. Getting a good solution is important and usually the cheapest. The bad solutions will just need replacing sooner and cost everybody until then.
Chris Pflieger
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you need a DMX relay panel.
Off the top of my head would be Pathway Connectivity, Touchplate Technologies, and my company, Touché Controls. The latter solution would probably way overpriced for you application.
Off the top of my head would be Pathway Connectivity, Touchplate Technologies, and my company, Touché Controls. The latter solution would probably way overpriced for you application.
