I just bought some L&E mini strips and I bought what I deem to be the standard EYC lamps for them. We don't have the budget at this point for both these and the narrower EYF, but I'm wondering has anyone used EYFs with any silk diffusion like R113 or R104 and is the spread and intensity good enough to still get a decent cyc blend out of them?
Conventional Fixtures EYF + R113
- Thread starterRoss
- Start date
Absolutely. If budget or labor is a concern, always better to use a narrower lamp, as diffusion can make it wider, but not the converse. A TV guy who only bought PAR64 VNSPs taught me that years ago.
As to your specific question, it's always a bit of trial and error to determine the best distance from the cyc and which way the silk's lines should run when using any striplight as a cyclight. I've never been happy with a single layer of MR-16 strips lighting a cyc over 15' tall, but they're fine for less than that. I prefer X104 to X113, unless I need to turn a Leko into a ParCan.
Another tip: Using Blacktak, tape 4"x24" strips of diffusion media onto the fixtures, rather than adding it into the colorframes. Saves time, and protects the diffusion from the color leaching onto it. This way, diffusion lasts almost forever.
As to your specific question, it's always a bit of trial and error to determine the best distance from the cyc and which way the silk's lines should run when using any striplight as a cyclight. I've never been happy with a single layer of MR-16 strips lighting a cyc over 15' tall, but they're fine for less than that. I prefer X104 to X113, unless I need to turn a Leko into a ParCan.
Another tip: Using Blacktak, tape 4"x24" strips of diffusion media onto the fixtures, rather than adding it into the colorframes. Saves time, and protects the diffusion from the color leaching onto it. This way, diffusion lasts almost forever.
All the time.
We have 12 L&E MR16, 3 circ./color strips, 6 over with flood lamps (EYC ?, EYF ?, can't recall off hand), 6 under with spots, lighting a 30ft. high x 50ft wide white cyc. I've used this setup for 20 years. The strips are about 3ft DS of the cyc.
This link of the rep plot shows the configuration on the #5 Electric
http://www.brooklyncenter.com/techinfo/wwlighting/Datafiles/WWDancePlot.pdf
Standard is to either use the Rosco R124, 125, 126 or 127 colors, or whatever is the designers choice combined with R104.
The L&E color frame can use a cut measuring 3.18" x 4.5" and you can get 30 cuts per sheet of gel.
This allows the R104 to have it's diffusion spreading L/R, with the "lines" of the frost running up/down the 3-1/2" side of the frame (vertically, in other words).
Attaching a photo of the red wash, R124
FWIW, Lee also makes a L228 linear diffusion, which is a good bit denser, if so desired, though I've never had to use it on the MR16 strips.
Steve Bailey
Brooklyn College
It's not you, SteveB, it's ControlBooth. Many members, including myself, have reported issues uploading files. I think we can all picture what a red wash on a white cyc looks like.
But what Ross was asking was, if the spot lamps would work for the near shot, with 104 or 113. In that case, I think the strips might want to be closer than 3' to the cyc.
But what Ross was asking was, if the spot lamps would work for the near shot, with 104 or 113. In that case, I think the strips might want to be closer than 3' to the cyc.
Yup, missed that.
And to answer - yes they will, IF you can get the electric high enough to get some spread, maybe 5ft above the top of the cyc - OR above the visible section of the cyc, depending on border trims.
We occasionally drop the upper flood units and use the circuits elsewhere (ground row). Not quite as good coverage, but OK.
And I agree that getting the strips closer will help, just not too close, or you end up not actually lighting the material, but more the floor.
SB
The EYF at 12 to 14° is a poor substitute even with frost for a 36 to 44° choice is a poor one in my opinion. The lamp has the most output towards its center and less towards the edges. Frosting that lamp only means you are diffusing more the lesser towards the edge amount of light output and still have much more output towards the center in getting the light to that of a EYC. This if not a EYC/60 that's 60°.
Lots of years ago I switched from premium brand of MR-16 lamp to off-shore brand for these lamps and have never had a problem with them. Cheap/done. Normally I only stock and use the EYC for show use though I do stock the lesser wattages and narrower ones that never get used much. Never a problem with off shore types like PEC, FEIT, Jamar, Wiko etc. Many many brands that sell for a buck or two each and seem to work just as well for a MR-16 lamp. Note on MR-16 lamps in a cyc, make sure they don't have lenses or they will be difficult to get into the fixture.
But as said, I buy a few hundred a year of the cheaper lamps and have for a number of years never regretted that choice.
That would in my opinion be the better the option than attempting to frost thus loose some output and get a even beam over double its beam spread.
Lots of years ago I switched from premium brand of MR-16 lamp to off-shore brand for these lamps and have never had a problem with them. Cheap/done. Normally I only stock and use the EYC for show use though I do stock the lesser wattages and narrower ones that never get used much. Never a problem with off shore types like PEC, FEIT, Jamar, Wiko etc. Many many brands that sell for a buck or two each and seem to work just as well for a MR-16 lamp. Note on MR-16 lamps in a cyc, make sure they don't have lenses or they will be difficult to get into the fixture.
But as said, I buy a few hundred a year of the cheaper lamps and have for a number of years never regretted that choice.
That would in my opinion be the better the option than attempting to frost thus loose some output and get a even beam over double its beam spread.
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