FLE Lamp Failure - What Causes This?

Nelson

Active Member
Last weekend I installed a new Osram FLE halogen lamp in one of our Lycian Super Clubspots only to have it go out minutes later. When I removed the lamp, this is what I found:
FLE.JPG

I did not touch (though I did not clean) the capsule. I was not the followspot operator so I'm not positive how long the lamp lasted, but I believe it was just a few minutes. Another lamp from the same batch is still working well in another followspot. Any idea what happened?
 
Does the spot have proper airflow? Looks overheated. Hard to imagine that buildup of heat in such a short time.
 
Send it back to the person/company who sold it to you. Ask for a repalcement. The manufacturer should be glad to do it for you.
 
Thanks for the replies. I intend to send it back; I just wanted to see what I could learn about the problem before I return it. I'll check the spot over closely before we use it again. I don't recall that the Super Clubspot has much for airflow. I don't think they even have a fan, but off the top of my head, I can't remember for sure. Still, I will check to see if there is some airflow obstruction.

I assumed this was a manufacturing defect as I can't fathom how the followspot could cause enough heat to build up in the lamp to cause this failure so rapidly (except maybe a transformer failure). When I installed the lamp I tested it briefly and it did not appear to be abnormally bright.
 
Thanks for the replies. I intend to send it back; I just wanted to see what I could learn about the problem before I return it. I'll check the spot over closely before we use it again. I don't recall that the Super Clubspot has much for airflow. I don't think they even have a fan, but off the top of my head, I can't remember for sure. Still, I will check to see if there is some airflow obstruction.

I assumed this was a manufacturing defect as I can't fathom how the followspot could cause enough heat to build up in the lamp to cause this failure so rapidly (except maybe a transformer failure). When I installed the lamp I tested it briefly and it did not appear to be abnormally bright.


Color is a better indicator. If it has shifted away from others and more towards blue, then you may have voltage issues. Manufacturer error could very well be the cause. If the lamp bud (ok, hard to call it a lamp when it's the size of a flower bud) was not cemented in deep enough, too much light/heat will be reflected back into the lamp, which would do that. Dimmer, may be a better clue, as such an error would drop the output of the spot.
 
It looks like it is probably fill contamination, but it's hard to tell from a small photo. Sometimes (as John points out) a voltage spike or issue could cause a similar effect as well. Definitely worth reporting-- although the cost to ship and evaluate a lamp is $50 or so by the manufacturer, so in something like this, we'd (speaking for all of us) probably just ship or approve you a new one as it wouldn't be worth the cost to do the entire evaulation, get it back, etc. for one lamp.
 
FLE Osram/Sylvania #54383 MR-16, Quartz, White Coated Reflector 360w/82v MR-16 T-3.1/2 MOL 43.3mm GY 5.3 (RM 2P) Any Pos. (CRI 100) Work Dist. 30.5mm 1,250 Lum 75hr
FLE Ushio #1000542 MR-16, Dich. Quartz, Faceted Reflector 360w/82v MR-16 cc-8 MOL 44.5mm GY 5.3 Work Dist. 209.6mm, Base Down to Horz. 3,300°K 75hr
FLE Halco MR-16, Quartz 360w/82v MR-16 2-Pin Any Burn Pos. 3,150°K 75hr

I have two in stock.

Ballooning of the globe and heavy deposit of tungsten on the globe that etched the glass while also depositing the tungsten on it. Nobody mentioned yet perhaps bad lamp socket in causing a voltage drop resistance that the halogen gas inside the working lamp was too cool on a low voltage lamp to re-deposit itself on the filament. Could also be anywhere in the voltage train to the lamp a serious enough voltage drop that the halogen gas heavy with tungsten particles is getting board and finding other stuff to do than redeposit - such as etch the glass in finding a hole, and once there is a hole, deposit itself all around the collest part of the lamp - the globe.. On the other hand is the ballooning...

Likely the cause but ballooning is often not seen. Send the lamp question to Mark from Osram = they got lamp scientists.

Overheating such as a bad fan probably wouldn't cause the halogen gas to find a cooler spot to etch away at, or make a hole into. Voltage drop sufficient especially on a low voltage lamp would if one remembers the classic GE Spectrum lamp or low voltage lamp catalogue notes on low voltage lamps.

Low Voltage halogen lamps should not be dimmed by more than 10% of their rated voltage since this will result in a reduction in life. Standard tungsten filament lamps (with no halogen filling), can be dimmed to zero volts, resulting in virtually endless life. However if low voltage tungsten halogen lamps are dimmed by more than 10%, the lamp will be operating at too low a temperature and the free halogens in the gas fill, will attack the cooler parts of the tungsten filament i.e. where enters the quartz or glass envelope. The wire at that point will then be eroded and eventually will fail. So if dimmed by 10% or more low voltage tungsten halogen lamps will not have an extended life but are unlikely even to reach their rated life. - Philips Website, Optical p1

Operating Temperature = The following maximum and minimum temperatures are suggested for optimum life in tungsten halogen studio lamps. Operation outside these figures will not necessarily cause immediate failure but will affect life adversely to an increasing extent. Seal temperature - 450°C max. Above this figure the sealing foil oxidizes at a rate increasing with temperature and is frequently the cause of short life due to seal temperature. (The point to which gas is injected into the globe.) Bulb/Globe - 250°C to 800°C - outside this range the halogen cycle becomes less efficient and blackening may occur. Temperatures above 1,200°C will cause the bulb to soften. Pins - 350°C maximum. Above this figure the plating on the pins may lose adhesion and the contact will deteriorate. Such deterioration may form local hot spots which rapidly worsen and may result in arcing and irreparable damage to both lamp and holder. Should signs of this be evident on removal of a failed lamp, it is important that a good contact is restored by replacing the lampholder before the next lamp is fitted. Otherwise the new lamp will rapidly fail in a similar manner.
Operating Temperature of Discharge Studio Lamps - The following maximum and minimum temperatures are suggested for optimum life. Operation outside of these figures will not necessarily cause immediate failure but will effect life adversely to an increasing extent. Cap/bulb interface capsule lamps 450°C maximum. Above this temperature the sealing foil oxidizes at a rate increasing with temperature and is frequently the cause of short life due to seal failure. Bulb - Capsule Lamps 700°-1,000°C. Sealed Beam Lamps 150°-400°C. Above 1,000°C, quartz may devitrify, which will cause the arc tube to operate below the minimum temperature, the metal halides will not vaporize as required, and lamp performance will be impaired. Pins - 350°C. Above this temperature, see above Quartz Halogen Pins problems. For sealed beam lamps - to ensure that the above conditions are met, it is important that the lamp does not operate above 400°C even in an enclosed fitting. It is important to consider the lamp housing from the standpoints of radiation, absorption, and ventilation. Normal variations in ambient temperature do not affect the performance of lamps. Above 175°C (350°F), the solder on conventional lamps may soften, deform, or melt, and the basing cement may loosen, (cracks are not a normal thing to see.) All glass wedge base lamps can be operated in lamp ambient temperatures of up to 230°C (450°F). (not-noted source but probably GE/Spectrum.)

Was thinking different things as Derek might post. Not thinking the above either. Agree return to maker for a perfecly good new lamp to try again in what could be a perfectly bad condition for it. Also check the voltage train in seeming at least to me a voltage type of thing in lamp socket or somewhere the lamp is not getting hot enough. Granted the bubble is a problem in this theory.
 

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