Spectral distribution of a
fluorescent lamp is by way of spikes of energy in certain wavelengths / color and not the linear white light color distribution of a
incandescent lamp. Look into SPD graphs for
fluorescent / arc lamp light distribution. Also Correlated
Color Temperature CCT and
Chromacity.
What this means is if you have a lamp at 4,1K putting say a green
gel next to it, you could theoretically do not much in getting that sickly tint or hue or especially in the case of that
color temperature do a lot but also
block out most other waves of the spectrum. Go really light green first and see what it does than say a medium green if not say into the cyan range.
Might look into
Rosco Tech Notes, "Using Cinegel for Controlling Light in Film and Video Production" Filter Facts,
Rosco Laboratories, inc. It goes into a lot of detail about what to add or subject from a
fluorescent so as to get a desired
effect that might be useful. Stuff like them recommending Tough Plusgreen 50 for a cool white in having a distinct green cast which than on the camera is taken out by a filter. You wouldn't want to take that out with a filter and this might be the light you are looking for. Various other gels to
play with in the cinegel
line that might work better.
The Beauty of Light p164-22 "The Physics of Light Color and the Psychology behind its Choice" also notes to some extent about
fluorescent lamps giving ghastly lighting is not just in its color
rendering but also about the un-natural shadows (or lack of them) by way of washing them out and the reflective powers on what is reflecting the light ... "Now we can see why
fluorescent light can make even the loveliest complexion look ghastly. The colors we perceive depend on the spectral
power distribution of the light and the reflectance of the lady’s skin. Even though the reflectance curve of the skin stays the same, if the SPD of the illuminating light changes, our perception of the lady’s complexion will change too." If you say get the set all done, than say do a very light green/white
wash over them, do the same with makeup
etc. it should help with this
effect.
The Beauty of Light, by Ben Bova; John Wiley & Sons, Inc., N.Y. 1988 (Really good
book on lighting)
Cool White is a good choice - especially if you get a really cheap crappy brand with a
CRI of under say 70. Warm white lamps have more spikes in the red range of color so they would be bad. On the other
hand, if looking for a lamp, a Deluxe Cool White or even Soft light lamp as long as not specification or deluxe specification grade might have more in the green range also.
Found this chart in a 1960's lighting graphics text
book:
Lamp type Lamp Appearance(1)
Effect on
Neutral Surface(1)
Effect on(2) Atmosphere Colors Strengthened Colors Grayed
Warm White Yellowish-White Yellowish-White Warm Orange-Yellow Red/Green/Blue
Deluxe Warm White Yellowish-White Yellowish-White Warm (blends w.
Filament Red/Orange/Yellow/Green Blue
White Pale Yellowish White Pale Yellowish White Moderately Warm Orange Yellow Red/Green/Blue
Soft White Pinkish White Pinkish White Warm Pinkish Red/Orange Green/Blue
Cool White White White Moderately Cool Orange/Yellow/Blue Red
Deluxe Cool White White White Moderately Cool (Blends w.
Daylight) All Nearly Equal None Appreciably
Daylight Bluish/White Bluish/White Very Cool Green/Blue Red/Orange
Could also try dimming the lamps some - down to the 100v range as a max for most normal dimmers and ballasts. A theory might be to use say a 3,5K lamp of low
CRI and efficiency, put it on the
dimmer and mechanically make a really green light source.
Do research into the dimming subject on this website and others however should you attempt this - lots of
safety and notes about it in the past. Rapid Start lamps are needed, than what dimmers and what ballasts are in use as the range can be down to almost zero with the right equipment in use. I have pages and pages of notes on the subject but short of knowing exact ballasts & dimmers would not be able to get into more detail, much less what works. In general however, don't put
filament and
fluorescent lamps on the same
dimmer circuit & if dimming a
fluorescent lamp, it should have a minimum un-dimmed
burn in time of 100 hours so as to stabilize itself before attempting to dim it.
Also in dimming a
fluorescent lamp, while luminous output goes down as expected,
color temperature goes up instead of down.
CRI deteriorates as
power decreases (thats a good thing). Be advised also that the metals making up the red part of the spectrum condense first when dimmed, this could mean pre-mature lamp failure, shortened lamp life and a lamp that even when not dimmed might not have a full spectrum output. These notes were mainly about dimming
HMI lamps but are the same for all arc lamps and from: Osram Photo-Optic Lighting Products Catalog - 1999
