How many Smartpack wall mount racks can I LAN together

Actually, since we aren't replacing the wire there is no liability there (since it is rated at the maximum draw of the fully loaded dimmer pack), and the breaker is rated to the full capacity of the rack, so there is no liability there either (according to the people who know about this stuff). Otherwise, yes we would insist on pulling through new wire and putting in a new breaker.

And I know you are. But I just wanted to get the advice out there.
 
What I don't understand (in complete honesty) is: doesn't the code specify whether or not the rack could be connected to the lesser-rated service, and shouldn't the licensed master electrician and inspector on the job be able to make that determination, and if they sign off, shouldn't the lawyer defer to their expertise? Is this really a matter of opinion?
 
What I don't understand (in complete honesty) is: doesn't the code specify whether or not the rack could be connected to the lesser-rated service, and shouldn't the licensed master electrician and inspector on the job be able to make that determination, and if they sign off, shouldn't the lawyer defer to their expertise? Is this really a matter of opinion?

Keep in mind a lot of the code is in the interpretation. The city inspector has final say in all decisions. He may be reading the code completely wrong, but it doesn't matter if you are talking about getting things done.

We have an inspector in a nearby city that does not include any AV in the inspection. We have done complete installs (dimmers, LEDs, pulling new circuits) and needed no permit and no inspection. The inspector inspected to the breaker for the dimmer rack and no further.

In another city I work in the inspector requires a system rated to 25% more than the maximum labeled draw of the cabinet. It doesn't matter what you say, put in a breaker/wire that only meets the requirements, and he will red tag you.

Same thing with electricians. For example, as I said earlier, my electrician will not install a derated cabinet. He believes it is not safe and will not do it. I am sure I could find an electrician that would, but honestly, I like my guy. I know he doesn't cut corners. Everything is done in the safest way possible, to spec, and beyond code.

Keep in mind also that code is meant to be the MINIMUM guideline. It is the absolute least you should do.

Finally, court is the same way. The law, no matter how much we may think it is, is not black and white (especially in civil cases like we are talking about here). Like Bill said in another thread. You might be able to produce enough evidence to get out of a $125m lawsuit, but it is going to cost enough in attorney costs that it can bankrupt a small/medium sized company.

According to my lawyer, the inspector signing off on it does not end your liability, nor does any paperwork you give to the client, even meeting code does not necessarily end your liability. Everything you do is a risk. The question is how much of a risk do you want to take. I will even readily admit that derating a cabinet if done properly is probably a 1% chance of producing a result that will lead to a lawsuit. But is that a chance you want to take? Some people will say that lessening your probability from 1% to .5% is not worth it. To me, it is. Especially when I am not going beyond what I believe to be necessary.

Maybe it is because my guys aren't entertainment guys. Maybe it is because I learned electrics and engineering from outside the entertainment world. I dunno, but I have gotten legal advice about this and that is how it came out. I have never been in a situation where the savings is worth the risk.
 
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So I'm confused here.
How is a dimmer rack any different to a standard switchboard in terms of load calculation?
Unless you guys have wildly different electrical codes to us, it's quite safe, normal and legal to have a switchboard sub mains rated at less than the sum of all the breakers installed on it and often by a considerable margin. That's because they recognise the likelihood of everything drawing full load simultaneously is nigh zero and if that did happen the upstream protective device trips...
 
I suggested you replace the breakers because, in your experience, they may at some point fail on and to reduce your liability I would suggest that a new breaker may have a better chance of surviving and keeping you out of legal action. An overload in regular use may not happen, although technically it could [32A rated breaker with a 40A load], but a short-circuit might not open it if you say it can fail on. Where do you draw the liability line?

Listen, I'm being a jerk here to prove a point [isn't that how it usually is??] and mean no ill will. If the safety issue is based on possible overloaded conductors because a breaker may fail, note that the possibility is extremely rare. The NEC does indeed list minimums for a safe installation in order to reduce the possibility of fire. You do not have to do more than that to reduce liability.

A properly designed system relies on several things in order to be safe, none of which you will be liable for. These things include: wire manufactured without weak areas, breakers that operate correctly, wire not knicked or skinned in conduit, proper and sufficient grounding, product without design or manufacturing defects, and more. Will you be called in to court? Yes. Will you be able to show standards of design and installation? Yes. Then you are done.

ETC and other manufacturers, including breaker panel manufacturers, do make the recommendations that all of your resources do not like and we are not being taken to court. While I have no qualms with your specific design choices of full nameplate feed or 125% nameplate feed, I do want everyone to know that this is more than the NEC safe minimums. From there, readers and their customers can decide how to spend their money....on feeds or fixtures. I just can't in good conscience suggest that someone feed a rack with 1000A when it could only ever draw 640A.

I would like to suggest that the non-entertainment electrician, lawyer, insurance agent and AHJ all be given a copy of Steve's article. It is not snake oil, is legal and safe, NEC-backed, proven, cost prudent, and is used as an education article for a large number of engineers and AHJS.

Design systems anyway you wish but please do not tell people they will end up with an indefensible lawsuit. It's just not true.

David
 
Actually, since we aren't replacing the wire there is no liability there (since it is rated at the maximum draw of the fully loaded dimmer pack), and the breaker is rated to the full capacity of the rack, so there is no liability there either (according to the people who know about this stuff). Otherwise, yes we would insist on pulling through new wire and putting in a new breaker.

And I know you are. But I just wanted to get the advice out there.

I almost hate to jump into this thread, but I feel I need to. The above argument applies to the supposedly under-rated main breaker that you're concerned will fail closed, just the same as is does to the 40A branch breakers, yet you're not replacing those and do not consider them a liability.

When I scope a project that requires modifications to an existing facility, I always include a clarification in the scoping document to the effect of "all existing systems are assumed to be in safe working order." Of course, if we find anything that is suspect during the job, we identify it to the client and provide them with a change order cost to resolve. Simply put, the onus is on the owner to maintain their equipment, not the next person who does an install.

You should do your install however you want, but you're essentially saying that following the NEC is unsafe.
 
Keep in mind a lot of the code is in the interpretation. The city inspector has final say in all decisions. He may be reading the code completely wrong, but it doesn't matter if you are talking about getting things done.

We have an inspector in a nearby city that does not include any AV in the inspection. We have done complete installs (dimmers, LEDs, pulling new circuits) and needed no permit and no inspection. The inspector inspected to the breaker for the dimmer rack and no further.

In another city I work in the inspector requires a system rated to 25% more than the maximum labeled draw of the cabinet. It doesn't matter what you say, put in a breaker/wire that only meets the requirements, and he will red tag you.

Same thing with electricians. For example, as I said earlier, my electrician will not install a derated cabinet. He believes it is not safe and will not do it. I am sure I could find an electrician that would, but honestly, I like my guy. I know he doesn't cut corners. Everything is done in the safest way possible, to spec, and beyond code.

Keep in mind also that code is meant to be the MINIMUM guideline. It is the absolute least you should do.

Finally, court is the same way. The law, no matter how much we may think it is, is not black and white (especially in civil cases like we are talking about here). Like Bill said in another thread. You might be able to produce enough evidence to get out of a $125m lawsuit, but it is going to cost enough in attorney costs that it can bankrupt a small/medium sized company.

According to my lawyer, the inspector signing off on it does not end your liability, nor does any paperwork you give to the client, even meeting code does not necessarily end your liability. Everything you do is a risk. The question is how much of a risk do you want to take. I will even readily admit that derating a cabinet if done properly is probably a 1% chance of producing a result that will lead to a lawsuit. But is that a chance you want to take? Some people will say that lessening your probability from 1% to .5% is not worth it. To me, it is. Especially when I am not going beyond what I believe to be necessary.

Maybe it is because my guys aren't entertainment guys. Maybe it is because I learned electrics and engineering from outside the entertainment world. I dunno, but I have gotten legal advice about this and that is how it came out. I have never been in a situation where the savings is worth the risk.

I'm coming late to this party, because the power discussion was masquerading as an EIA-485 loading question!

I have a few thoughts:

1. Virtually every circuit breaker panel installed in the US applies derating between the main feed and the total of the pole-spaces in the panel. There is no functional difference between a listed dimmer rack and a breaker panel, for the purposes of this discussion.

2. Section 520.27(C) was created because inspectors around the country were making up a bogus rule about feeding the dimmer rack at full nameplate rating. It had no basis in safety or even in the NEC prior to the appearance of 520.27(C). Initially, Code Panel 15 told us "You don't need this section, the Code already allows such derating in chapters 1 through 4." We produced an "expert opinion" from the then chief electrical inspector for the state of Washington stating that dimmer racks in article 520 venues had to be fed at the full nameplate rating. Only then did CMP15 realize that there was a big problem of inspectors "making up" code on this issue and that 520.27(C) was sorely needed.

3. If you want to spend your customer's money on fully rated feeds where they are not needed, fine. But please don't use the argument that the breaker might fail and thus set the building on fire. That is simply a specious argument, since the safety of every code-compliant electrical system depends on functional overcurrent protective devices. And, to require 125% of the nameplate rating has no basis in engineering fact or common sense, UNLESS the likely inventory plugged into the system will load it to 100% and be operated at full for more than three hours. This might happen on a very small system in a specialized application, but is so unlikely on a normal dimmer-per-circuit performance lighting system that it is rarely considered.

4. Section 520.27(C) actually contemplates the possibility of overloading the service and tripping the overcurrent protective device. That is why egress lighting must not be fed from a derated service.

5. Even if 10A Sensor modules were available, you would actually be doing the end user a disservice by using them. Why? You are forcing system derating at the dimmer level. the user can no longer deploy the available power where needed, you have forced them into your derating scheme, rather than theirs.

6. Any system derating should allow some reasonable overhead and room for expansion, but that is very unlikely to be 100% of the nameplate rating, except on very,very small systems. It certainly will never be 125% of the nameplate rating, except as in (3) above.

7. If you have an electrician who refuses to install derated feeds per 520.27(C) and an attorney who supports that view due to "liability", all I can say is that such thinking represents a tiny minority, not supported by facts.

8. Most people who support fully rated feeders to a performance lighting system fail to realize the impact on the cooling system for the building. For instance, if there is 50 kW of fixture inventory in a system, but 230 kW of feeder and dimmer capacity, that can mean 230 kW of air conditioning capacity for the stage and auditorium as well. The cost of such an increase in the cooling system makes the cost of the larger feeders seem like chump change. And these are "empty dollars"--they don't add to the usability of the performance space in any way.



ST
 
Well, all this it seems was for naught. The client with the 225A breaker is letting us pull in a new feed. So no need to derate anywhere.

Thanks for the discussion guys.

Mike
 
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So is it your intent to specify a SR-48 rack, load it with 31 dual 20A D20 modules (+17 AFM), and feed it with 413A/leg?

My electrician is pulling a 425A 3 phase breaker for the system (I believe, it has been a long day). Unless I need to pull more to cover the AFMs. But I figured their draw was negligible. I haven't sat down with my ME yet, we just got the okay to pull the new feed today.
 
I agree, this kind of discussion is invaluable for everyone participating, even if the unconvinceables remain unconvinced! ;)

ST
It's like discussing evolution or climate change with a Republican.
 
So what size wire are you going to use with that 425A 3 phase breaker? Will the neutral be the same, higher, or lower than the hot legs? Size of the grounding conductor?

Boy, Derek really likes to open a can of worms. Let's be sure to rate the neutral for the waveform peak current, not RMS, because you never know.....

I don't mean this to sound harsh, but I don't suppose anyone gave consideration that up stream of this grossly over-sized 425 Amp breaker is the main service busses, the main service breaker, a transformer, and primary fuses that probably aren't size for anything near this much "real" load being added.

I guess the theory is that it's better if the transformer explodes and the whole building goes dark instead of risking having the dimmer rack trip its feed on the nearly impossible chance that all of the dimmers are somehow loaded to their full rating.

If the OP is really that concerned with consequences and liability then he should have a licensed electrical engineer review and design the entire service and distribution system and he should stay far away from that portion of it. That's the responsibility that the engineer gets paid the big bucks to take, and even the lawyers and insurance folks would be happy with that decision.
 
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Boy, Derek really likes to open a can of worms. Let's be sure to rate the neutral for the waveform peak current, not RMS, because you never know.....

I don't mean this to sound harsh, but I don't suppose anyone gave consideration that up stream of this grossly over-sized 425 Amp breaker is the main service busses, the main service breaker, a transformer, and primary fuses that probably aren't size for anything near this much "real" load being added.

I guess the theory is that it's better if the transformer explodes and the whole building goes dark instead of risking having the dimmer rack trip its feed on the nearly impossible chance that all of the dimmers are somehow loaded to their full rating.

If the OP is really that concerned with consequences and liability then he should have a licensed electrical engineer review and design the entire service and distribution system and he should stay far away from that portion of it. That's the responsibility that the engineer gets paid the big bucks to take, and even the lawyers and insurance folks would be happy with that decision.

Yes, all plans are reviewed by a licensed electrical engineer. And everything upstream is able to handle the "real" load.
 

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