Automated Fixtures Intellabeam 700HX IR Glass

[arexlame]

So, I've finally got around to having a good look inside the pair of Intellabeam 700HX's that I bought last month. A couple of (hopefully) quick questions to clarify some of my findings;

- From what I understand, the IR blocking glass is supposed to be split down the middle. Have a look at the attached photo, but from what I can tell I don't think either of them should be like that...

-This next question will probably be restricted to someone with an understanding of Australian electrical practises; One of the 700HX's has a piggy back connector, the other does not. Which is the correct for a fixture of this type? Most of the LED parcans I see with piggy back connectors, while any mover I have ever used/seen has always had a normal connector attached. Has it got something to do with the amperage of the fixture? If so, which connector should rightly go on the 700HX?

 

[Bubby4j]

[HASHTAG]#2[/HASHTAG] looks exactly like the intellabeam IR filters I have do. I think it's fine.

I think [HASHTAG]#1[/HASHTAG] has been replaced from the factory glass, and then the glass cracked. I don't know what purpose having 2 different pieces of glass serves. Having 2 pieces may have been cheaper. The problem is that it's cracked. I don't know if it'd be a good idea to simply add more adhesive around the cracks, or if it's a safety issue not to replace it.

Don Pugh at lightparts.com knows everything there is to know about Intellabeams, and if needed you can get IR glass from them.

I don't know about australian connectors, but if by piggy back connector you mean this, I have no clue why they'd use that outside the fixture (Am I assuming wrongly that you mean the main power connector for the fixture that plugs into the wall?). The IB only pulls something around 8.5A in 120V, and 4.5A in 240V. Whatever standard connector you have in Australia should work fine as long as it's rated to the fixture's amperage.

 

[Les]

The split down the middle might help facilitate expansion and contraction, which could explain the broken glass in the first picture (the one on the right, while slightly chipped, looks fine). Honestly, I would guess that they're both doing their job and to not worry about it (being the glass on the left is now effectively split down the middle just not factory spec ). If the IR glass was not working, you'd run in to sensor issues I believe*.


*Bubby4j, didn't you find that without the glass the IR flare interferes with the infrared sensors on the gobo/color wheels, causing them to not find home and essentially go crazy?

 

[Bubby4j]

The split down the middle might help facilitate expansion and contraction, which could explain the broken glass in the first picture (the one on the right, while slightly chipped, looks fine). Honestly, I would guess that they're both doing their job and to not worry about it (being the glass on the left is now effectively split down the middle just not factory spec ). If the IR glass was not working, you'd run in to sensor issues I believe*.


*Bubby4j, didn't you find that without the glass the IR flare interferes with the infrared sensors on the gobo/color wheels, causing them to not find home and essentially go crazy?

Yes, without the glass it interferes with the gobo/color wheel optical sensors. It's probably also there to help the life of the other optics such as the lens and color filters.

 

[arexlame]

The split down the middle might help facilitate expansion and contraction, which could explain the broken glass in the first picture (the one on the right, while slightly chipped, looks fine). Honestly, I would guess that they're both doing their job and to not worry about it (being the glass on the left is now effectively split down the middle just not factory spec ). If the IR glass was not working, you'd run in to sensor issues I believe*.

Yes, without the glass it interferes with the gobo/color wheel optical sensors. It's probably also there to help the life of the other optics such as the lens and color filters.

Right, so once I get them back together and working I'll run them through some tests and see what happens with the gobo and colour wheels and I'll stick to the old adage 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'.

As for the connector,

but if by piggy back connector you mean this

I'm more after whether this or this is the correct plug type for this fixture.

Thanks for your help guys,

 

[Bubby4j]

Right, so once I get them back together and working I'll run them through some tests and see what happens with the gobo and colour wheels and I'll stick to the old adage 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'.

As for the connector, I'm more after whether this View attachment 10800 or this View attachment 10801 is the correct plug type for this fixture.

Thanks for your help guys,

Either of those plugs should work just fine. The 90 degree angle is simply a matter of convenience. As I understand them, they're both each rated to 10A. If you wanted, you could change one of them so they match. There isn't really a "wrong" plug for these lights as long as it's rated for the correct amount of power they'll pull, the plug isn't a standard used at higher voltages like 480V, the plug conforms with any electrical code that might be applicable, and the plug is sufficiently safe.

Legal Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, so don't take my advice.

 

[Les]

Personally, I would go with the "normal" non-piggyback connector.

 

[Bubby4j]

Personally, I would go with the "normal" non-piggyback connector.

Likewise, I feel like it'd fit in more places better. If you try to plug 2 fixtures into the same outlet pair you can't if they're vertically mounted outlets.

 

[techieman33]

Likewise, I feel like it'd fit in more places better. If you try to plug 2 fixtures into the same outlet pair you can't if they're vertically mounted outlets.

The 90* plug has a female connector on the back, so it passes power through to the next plug.

 

[Les]

That's true -- I could just see that feature be the subject of abuse. I guess if you're the only one using them and know/respect the capacity of the circuit, all is well.

 

[arexlame]

Yes, and after more research you can't buy rewire-able piggy back plugs without an electricians license any more. So normal connector it is.

Thanks for all your help guys!