Intellabeam 700HX Sparks Flying

I finally found out what the problem was!
In reality, all I had to do was resolder the wire to the autotransformer and it was fixed.

What I didn't know was that if you have the PF capacitor connected AND the ballast isn't connected, you'll end up with 21A for some reason.

Here's a quote from Don:
@ 120VAC input, with lamp on, and cap good = 7A.

With lamp on and bad cap = 21A

With cap “on”, and lamp off = 21A
In theory if the lamp is off, and or the ballast leads ( white, black, red at P6) are disconnected, the cap cannot be in circuit.

All I've got to do is repair the insulation now and it should be good to go again!
 
Because I don't think it's necessary to start a new thread, Bubby4j; Have you got your iBeams to run in 13ch mode? I can't seem to find any reference to the correct dip switch settings?
 
Because I don't think it's necessary to start a new thread, Bubby4j; Have you got your iBeams to run in 13ch mode? I can't seem to find any reference to the correct dip switch settings?

Yes, it's actually slightly undocumented. They don't have it on their website, I first saw it on a forum.
Also, it won't work if you have a really old revision of the firmware, you'd need to upgrade.

I attached the documentation to this post.

One thing I thought was interesting was how the speed channel works.
Not only does it change how quickly motors move, it will synchronize their movements. If you set speed to something like halfway, and change pan & tilt in the same DMX frame, each motor will reach the destination at the same moment.

It's an alternative to having your console do the fade between cues, I have yet to tell if it's any smoother.

One thing I do know though, if you're doing a really fast chase on your console, change speed to 255. Otherwise if the destination position is within something like 20, the fixture won't move the motors at maximum speed if speed is at 0. It's really amazing how quickly you can do chases with this fixture, it's lightning fast! You can even have the position sync to a kick drum.

The binary mode may be of limited use as it'd be best used with a console that can actually calculate the needed numbers automagically, especially the checksum.
 

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Yes, it's actually slightly undocumented. They don't have it on their website, I first saw it on a forum.
Also, it won't work if you have a really old revision of the firmware, you'd need to upgrade.

I attached the documentation to this post.

One thing I thought was interesting was how the speed channel works.
Not only does it change how quickly motors move, it will synchronize their movements. If you set speed to something like halfway, and change pan & tilt in the same DMX frame, each motor will reach the destination at the same moment.

It's an alternative to having your console do the fade between cues, I have yet to tell if it's any smoother.

One thing I do know though, if you're doing a really fast chase on your console, change speed to 255. Otherwise if the destination position is within something like 20, the fixture won't move the motors at maximum speed if speed is at 0. It's really amazing how quickly you can do chases with this fixture, it's lightning fast! You can even have the position sync to a kick drum.

The binary mode may be of limited use as it'd be best used with a console that can actually calculate the needed numbers automagically, especially the checksum.

Ah Right, that makes sense now. Thanks.

I'll have a play with them next time I get a chance and see what I can find for mine. You wouldn't happen to know how to go about a software update if they need one? I've seen the file on the HES website, but can't find a reference about how to go about it...
 
Ah Right, that makes sense now. Thanks.

I'll have a play with them next time I get a chance and see what I can find for mine. You wouldn't happen to know how to go about a software update if they need one? I've seen the file on the HES website, but can't find a reference about how to go about it...
I'm afraid it's not as simple as connecting a USB cable. On one of the chips (I don't know which) it contains the firmware. You have to use some specialized equipment to "burn" new firmware. I don't even know if it's possible to overwrite an existing one, it might be read-only.

Ask Don at lightparts about it, the cheapest option might be to simply buy a chip with it already burned.
 
I'm afraid it's not as simple as connecting a USB cable. On one of the chips (I don't know which) it contains the firmware. You have to use some specialized equipment to "burn" new firmware. I don't even know if it's possible to overwrite an existing one, it might be read-only.

Ask Don at lightparts about it, the cheapest option might be to simply buy a chip with it already burned.

I imagined that would be the case, I'll just leave my fingers crossed that my ibeams already have it....
 
The Intellabeam uses a 27C512 EPROM for the firmware storage. The chips themselves are relatively inexpensive - one quick source: 27C512 EPROM | eBay
To program them a device programmer is needed - one quick source: TOP853 USB Universal Programmer EPROM MCU Gal Pic New w 2pcs Adapter Extractor | eBay
Once the firmware is downloaded to a PC, then it is programmed into the EPROM and the chip swapped.
Easy-peasy.
It's too bad the firmware isn't open source, then you could modify it and put all sorts of your own goodies in!
 
I have done reverse engineering and disassembly on EPROM contents before but I'm not sure I have time to do this anytime soon. Perhaps I'll look at it in the future. I did download the CPU data sheet and the machine language instruction set. I'm not familiar with it but could pick it up quickly. I used to design microchip controllers using TTL logic and MSI devices in a prior life. :)
Is there a wish list or feature that would be useful?
 
I have done reverse engineering and disassembly on EPROM contents before but I'm not sure I have time to do this anytime soon. Perhaps I'll look at it in the future. I did download the CPU data sheet and the machine language instruction set. I'm not familiar with it but could pick it up quickly. I used to design microchip controllers using TTL logic and MSI devices in a prior life. :)
Is there a wish list or feature that would be useful?
I actually have not thoroughly thought about what I'd change. The most useful thing I can think of would be a custom fixture profile, so there's no channels you don't want. I like the binary profile, but it seems a bit too detailed. Really, I'd like the ability to shut down the bulb over DMX without that binary profile.
Gobo shake I see in newer fixtures also, that might be neat to have.
Being able to change the "dimmer curve", I find that the dimmer channel isn't very linear. It feels like 70% of the dimming is done in the last 40% of the dimmer channel.

I could probably think of more.

It's too bad it's not just in C instead of assembly. These features would be nice but I don't know that it'd be worth the time to figure it all out.
 
The problem with bulb shutdown is waiting to re-strike (if the intent is to save bulb life/energy).
In theater I'm not concerned with gobo shake. I'd love it if it had rotation though...
I want to change the original gobo's using a custom wheel or one which accepts customs to something more suitable for theater (I know there are some out there).
The dimmer curve is pretty much mechanical (dimmer flag with curved slots), although I could see changing the rate of the stepper that controls the dimmer 'flag' movement...but that can also be done at the control board. Isn't it possible to apply a curve to an attribute? I think the Strand system allows that in the fixture profile...(now I have to go look at that)...
What's in the EPROM is not even assembly...it's just ones and zeros at that level. A disassembler converts the contents back to assembly (or possibly C but doubtful). Once it's in assembly then comments can be added to document it. Then the new stuff gets added and TESTED, TESTED, TESTED (regression testing) to make sure other original functions still work properly and nothing got broke....
Not sure if there is a disassembler for the V25+ chip out there...(another thing to look up), if not it's hand picking but a good text editor makes it go faster with search and replace.

Edit...I see the V25 is basically an 8086 based CPU so there are a lot of disassemblers available for it...
 

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