Labeling Rep Multi Drops

"Shouldn't be working in low light" You always have full work lights when you are doing anything in a venue? I'm jealous.

Unless I’m working an outside venue where darkness is needed for a focus, yes well lit work areas in every area.

Unless you are swapping out soca in the middle of a show it shouldn’t be dark.
 
Unless I’m working an outside venue where darkness is needed for a focus, yes well lit work areas in every area.

Unless you are swapping out soca in the middle of a show it shouldn’t be dark.

So how do you deal with anything during tech or during focus? Do you stop everything and pop work lights on?
 
As a general rule, construction and rehearsals don't happen concurrently on stage. Rehearsing under performance lights before the lights have power would be very unlikely. Continuing a rehearsal if the lights fail is equally unlikely. YMMV.
 
As a general rule, construction and rehearsals don't happen concurrently on stage. Rehearsing under performance lights before the lights have power would be very unlikely. Continuing a rehearsal if the lights fail is equally unlikely. YMMV.

I completely agree, but I'm not talking the entire rig isn't coming on. That wall sconce that was working earlier in the day isn't coming on. Send an electrician down to the deck and have them trouble shoot it. Is it a bad lamp? Did someone accidentally unplug it?

I'm simply saying in our industry it is very common to find yourself working in low light situations.
 
I completely agree, but I'm not talking the entire rig isn't coming on. That wall sconce that was working earlier in the day isn't coming on. Send an electrician down to the deck and have them trouble shoot it. Is it a bad lamp? Did someone accidentally unplug it?

I'm simply saying in our industry it is very common to find yourself working in low light situations.
@Aaron S. ( and @Amiers and @sk8rsdad ) that's why God, in her wisdom, created flash lights and head worn flash lights. ( Along with PPE )
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
I work in a world of tear down and set up currently. So if a lamp goes down during rehearsal you wait til after and change it when yes ballroom lights are back up.

When I overhire for theatres You work with a rep plot and even the multi drops on the loading rails SL and SR have blue and white switches if you need light. But again if a lamp goes out during rehearsing you just make a note and look at it after.

Regardless in spaces I’m in proper work light is always there and if it’s needed it gets turned on unless you are full blown show then that is the SMs call if they even want you to bother with it.

Good QC and crew will prevent having to work in low light/no light.
 
I work in a world of tear down and set up currently. So if a lamp goes down during rehearsal you wait til after and change it when yes ballroom lights are back up.

When I overhire for theatres You work with a rep plot and even the multi drops on the loading rails SL and SR have blue and white switches if you need light. But again if a lamp goes out during rehearsing you just make a note and look at it after.

Regardless in spaces I’m in proper work light is always there and if it’s needed it gets turned on unless you are full blown show then that is the SMs call if they even want you to bother with it.

Good QC and crew will prevent having to work in low light/no light.

I guess all I can say is congrats. I don't want to keep going back and forth on this. We clearly come from different places. Thanks for your input on my initial question.
 
I came late to this, but it sounds to me as if people are advocating numbering these drops in the same namespace as dimmer (and, really, DMX channel) numbers.

Unless everything is DPC and they all match... I recommend a different approach.

Overlapping namespaces are problematic, operationally.
 
Having absolutely no desire to hijack this thread, I have a tangent labeling question for the group...
We are currently redoing a rep plot in one of our black boxes and I'm looking for a way to label all the cable runs (individual, not Soca) without using tape, since it can be easily removed by the students, and without having to take all the connectors off for heat shrink. My current thought is laminated labels that are zip tied to the cable, but it seems like there might be a better way that I'm not thinking of. Any thoughts?
 
Having absolutely no desire to hijack this thread, I have a tangent labeling question for the group...
We are currently redoing a rep plot in one of our black boxes and I'm looking for a way to label all the cable runs (individual, not Soca) without using tape, since it can be easily removed by the students, and without having to take all the connectors off for heat shrink. My current thought is laminated labels that are zip tied to the cable, but it seems like there might be a better way that I'm not thinking of. Any thoughts?
@mrtrudeau23 P-Touch or Brady markers with suitably sized clear heat shrink tubing of an appropriate shrink ratio to slip over your already installed female connectors without requiring removal and re-terminating. As I believe we've previously discussed: Alpha (Brand name) offered clear heat shrink tubing with four to one shrink rations. I still believe I'm recalling another brand marketing clear heat shrink tubing in shrink ratios up to six to one.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
and without having to take all the connectors off for heat shrink.
Huge (2"+) diameter clear shrink over the entire connector (except for the pins of course)? Not sure what the largest diameter of clear shrink wrap is.
Myself, I'd use P-Touch, Brady, or similar that doesn't look hand-written, and then cover that with 2" cello packing tape (and for this one time only--NO COURTESY TAB). Make it extremely challenging for students to remove. If it seems like too much effort, it will be a deterrent.
 
@mrtrudeau23 P-Touch or Brady markers with suitably sized clear heat shrink tubing of an appropriate shrink ratio to slip over your already installed female connectors without requiring removal and re-terminating. As I believe we've previously discussed: Alpha (Brand name) offered clear heat shrink tubing with four to one shrink rations. I still believe I'm recalling another brand marketing clear heat shrink tubing in shrink ratios up to six to one.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
I'm currently only finding black tubing with a 4:1 ratio.
 
I'm currently only finding black tubing with a 4:1 ratio.
@mrtrudeau23 Try Mouser and / or several of your other LARGE wholesale electrical and electronic suppliers. If you're still having trouble sourcing clear heat-shrink tubing in higher ratios, consider @derekleffew 's suggestion, apply P-Touch or Brady labels directly to your female connectors then shrink a LARGER diameter heat shrink tube over your entire connector thus negating the need for a higher shrink ratio tubing. Shrink tubing is often sold in 4' lengths; in 4' lengths it may rapidly become prohibitively expensive. Calculate how much you'll need, include some excess, then look at pricing per 100' rolls, even if you need to order and wait for your supplier to order in. This should definitely become affordable and durable.
Beg, borrow, steal or purchase a REAL heat shrink gun, DON'T be urinating around with matches, BIC lighters, steam kettles, hot plates or any other ill conceived notions. @JD @FMEng @Ancient Engineer @ship @ anyone else : Can you suggest an approachable and affordable source on your side of Donald's walls for @mrtrudeau23 to contact Re: Sourcing clear heat shrink tubing and a suitable heat shrink gun??
 
@mrtrudeau23 Try Mouser and / or several of your other LARGE wholesale electrical and electronic suppliers. If you're still having trouble sourcing clear heat-shrink tubing in higher ratios, consider @derekleffew 's suggestion, apply P-Touch or Brady labels directly to your female connectors then shrink a LARGER diameter heat shrink tube over your entire connector thus negating the need for a higher shrink ratio tubing. Shrink tubing is often sold in 4' lengths; in 4' lengths it may rapidly become prohibitively expensive. Calculate how much you'll need, include some excess, then look at pricing per 100' rolls, even if you need to order and wait for your supplier to order in. This should definitely become affordable and durable.
Beg, borrow, steal or purchase a REAL heat shrink gun, DON'T be urinating around with matches, BIC lighters, steam kettles, hot plates or any other ill conceived notions. @JD @FMEng @Ancient Engineer @ship @ anyone else : Can you suggest an approachable and affordable source on your side of Donald's walls for @mrtrudeau23 to contact Re: Sourcing clear heat shrink tubing and a suitable heat shrink gun??
We have a couple heat guns, since we do use smaller heat shrink for large LED wiring projects and the like. My main issue was finding heat shrink at first that would work without removing the connector, but @derekleffew's suggestion of shrinking it to the connector will probably work great. Plus with twistlock, there is a good 1 1/4" of it that you wouldn't need to access to take it apart, so that also makes it a good option. I might have to do this to our other 4 spaces that have rep plots and get rid of all the ancient tape!!
 
Our theaters are all twist lock, so that may make heat shrink on the connector easier, if I can find a 2" diameter clear tube.
@mrtrudeau23 2" clear heat shrink tubing SHOULDN'T pose a problem. I'm still suggesting Mouser as a supplier who BENT OVER BACKWARDS to help me when I was in need of a few IC's and tiny through-hole mounted TRIACS to repair PC boards within my wife's Maytag Neptune washer and Maytag gas range after an extremely nearby lightning strike smoked many, many TOO many line powered devices in our home.
Every supplier I contacted told me: "Sure, no problem. How many hundred pieces will you be purchasing?" I was thinking two or three chips to install and possibly two or three more for stock. Mouser TOTALLY SURPRISED me when they suggested order however many you want, anywhere from one on up. (Hastening to add: "Small orders are our stock in trade.") [Apparently they meant it too. They kept me in their files and warned me as soon as they heard my chips were likely to go out of production then followed up still later when they were down to having only 100 remaining in stock.]
Mouser's willingness to deal with my 'cold call' , all the way from Canada, on the strength of my VISA card, snail-mail address, e-address and phone number earned my respect and made me a poster boy (poster old geezer) for Mouser to this day. Receiving my order at my door in less than 24 hours was EVEN more icing on the cake.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 

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