Labeling Rep Multi Drops

Aaron S.

Active Member
Hey everyone, I'm wanting to relabel my multi drops in my venue to make it easier for myself and crew to look at on the plot instead of just a string of numbers. Also, so I can say "Grab "(Label)" and run it SL" instead of "Grab "531-536 and run it SL"

I was thinking just using letters, but I have more than 26 drops. Would you all recommend "AA, BB, CC" or "A1, B1, C1"?

Also, if there is another idea I'm open.

Thanks everyone
 
I would do colors and numbers or letters. Red is first LX, and gets Red 1-5 or A-E. Blue is 2nd LX and gets Blue 1-5 or A-E, etc.
 
I was thinking just using letters, but I have more than 26 drops. Would you all recommend "AA, BB, CC" or "A1, B1, C1"?
The former, definitely. Matches precedence touring racks have set.
But...I'd stick with numbers. With letters you need a chart somewhere that says "A"=1-6, "B"=7-12, and so on. You'll see lots of people counting on their fingers.
Instead, label and refer to them as "531", "537", "543", with the understanding that the next five circuits follow sequentially (just as one would address a moving light).
 
I’m a fan of numbers but if you want to make it yours do whatever you feel will better assist you and your crew especially if they are regulars.

Color is the easiest SL RED dropped from the pin rail is easier than saying grab 531-36.

This also helps with the non regulars and takes the thinking out of the equation.
 
Maybe start with P and OP......

Somewhat more seriously, is there a pattern - like 13 stage left down to upstage and 13 stage right? or all over the place? Are there many fewer gridiron junction boxes? Maybe a letter for the GIJB and a number for the drop. Kind of gets the head going in the right direction by the letter. Only works if maybe a 4th or fewer GIJB than drops.

There is a simplicity and almost infallibility to Derek's approach - but still a lot of numbers.
 
Hey everyone, I'm wanting to relabel my multi drops in my venue to make it easier for myself and crew to look at on the plot instead of just a string of numbers. Also, so I can say "Grab "(Label)" and run it SL" instead of "Grab "531-536 and run it SL"

I was thinking just using letters, but I have more than 26 drops. Would you all recommend "AA, BB, CC" or "A1, B1, C1"?

Also, if there is another idea I'm open.

Thanks everyone
@aaron S. Hello Aaron; first a few queries.
- Are all of your drops identical? All 6 circuit Socapex, all 12 circuit Pyle National, all actual junction boxes with multiple tails emanating from each??
- How much physical space / area is conveniently available for labeling per drop???
One local venue had approximately 31 drops. The drops terminated in a variety of 4" deep junction boxes ranging in size from 6" x 6" to 12" x 12" with 2, 4, 8 and 12 20 amp grounded stage pin females emanating from the various boxes c/w mesh Kellem's box connectors in and out. Given the area of both the rear and covers of the boxes LARGE yellow and black Brady markers enumerated the boxes from 1 to 31; initially only on the blank cover side and eventually on both sides as no one could predict which side would be most visible to the flyman while the boxes were hanging from their spot lines prior to being clamped to a system pipe.
There's another point to mention: Users who've never installed clamps on junction boxes often make the error of adding fender washers to the attachment bolt of a standard lighting C clamp and bolting it through a convenient 1/2" conduit knock-out / 7/8" diameter hole. In practice this is NEVER a good idea; the clamps' mounting bolts keep working loose and you're forever having to open boxes and re-tighten the clamps.
in this case, the method that worked was to bolt an appropriate length of 1/8 th x 3" inch steel flat bar to one side of the 4" deep boxes with a couple of inches of flat bar extending from the width of the box on both sides. 1/2" diameter (plus clearance) holes were bored through the flat bar and standard C clamps bolted to the brackets. This allowed C clamps to be conveniently tightened from outside the closed boxes by anyone with an appropriate wrench and WITHOUT any need to open a potentially live junction box. If there was space to burn on a given system pipe the boxes could be hung beneath the pipe. If lateral space was at a premium, boxes could be inverted and yoked up above a system pipe leaving the entire length of pipe available to hang instruments below the pipe and still leave a lot of room for any instruments that would benefit from being yoked above the pipe (as so often happens when anal designers want two or four instruments hung at the same lateral location.) Boxes yoked above a system pipe had a tendency to roll the pipe. Hanging instruments below the pipe (and / or adding stiffeners) counter-acted any tendency for system pipes to roll with anywhere from one to four boxes yoked above a pipe. In this venue, system pipes were of two lengths; 70' and 90' with the longer pipes provided to enable legs to be hung further off stage if / when desired per the the venue's original architects, consultants and contractors.
Back to labeling your drops.
If you're labeling Socapex or Pyle National (12 circuit) drops, you might consider suitable size yellow and black Brady markers with clear heat-shrink tubing applied over the Brady labels to protect them from flexing, handling, general abuse and keep their edges tightly sealed in situ. Electronic parts suppliers can usually source Alpha ( and other brands ) of clear heat-shrink tubing in sizes intended to shrink to 1/2, 1/3 rd and even 1/4 of their initial size. From memory; Alpha marketed their heat-shrinkable tubings in several series as 221, 321 and 421 (indicating shrink ratios of two to one, three to one and four to one.) Again from memory, I think I'm recalling another manufacturer marketing a shrinkable tubing with a six to one ratio; large enough to pass over a fairly large multi-contact connector AFTER it's already installed on your multi-cable.
With apologies for my novella. Optimistically I've at least partially answered your original post. ( If I haven't put you to sleep hours ago.)
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
@RonHebbard @BillConnerFASTC @Amiers

This will address a few different posts.

There is somewhat of a pattern, 14 boxes up stage right in the grid, 14 up stage left in the grid. 6 downstage right in the grid, 6 downstage left in the grid. another 4 stage left on a tech gallery, and another 4 stage right on a gallery as well. a few other around on the deck level.

Yes, they are all identical. they are all 6 circuit socapex.
For the amount of space, I would say the amount of area you get on a Socapex connector.
In my venue we drop a break out, not a box or anything.

I would prefer to stay away from colors. Mainly because if we are working in some low light situations, a red or a blue might be hard to see. but a white letter or number would be easier to make out.

Thanks everyone for your time. All these responses are giving me a lot to think about.
 
I would consider letter for general position A-F, and then just number them within the position. You have 10 with double digits but most are one letter and one digit. An idea. Put a big sign with the letter under the grid zones to see from below.
 
@RonHebbard @BillConnerFASTC @Amiers

This will address a few different posts.

There is somewhat of a pattern, 14 boxes up stage right in the grid, 14 up stage left in the grid. 6 downstage right in the grid, 6 downstage left in the grid. another 4 stage left on a tech gallery, and another 4 stage right on a gallery as well. a few other around on the deck level.

Yes, they are all identical. they are all 6 circuit socapex.
For the amount of space, I would say the amount of area you get on a Socapex connector.
In my venue we drop a break out, not a box or anything.

I would prefer to stay away from colors. Mainly because if we are working in some low light situations, a red or a blue might be hard to see. but a white letter or number would be easier to make out.

Thanks everyone for your time. All these responses are giving me a lot to think about.
@Aaron S. Yellow and black adhesive backed Brady markers ( possibly in a 1.25" size ) would give you excellent contrast on your typically black multi-cables. Applying Brady markers to your cables then covering with clear heat-shrink tubing of an appropriate size and shrink ratio would likely be more durable, and offer larger labeling space than attempting to label directly on your Socapex connectors where handling, mating and disconnecting the connectors would likely be more demanding of your labels. Among the benefits of using Socapex are the ability to add breakouts to a variety of connectors; Stage pin, Twist, domestic parallel blade et al. Also inter-brand compatibility between Veam, Socapex, Amphenol, (and others) with most rental shops having agreed upon a standardized pin-out across North America. Whether you number your drops sequentially and depend upon a few conveniently displayed wall chatts for circuit / dimmer numbers OR list first and last numbers within a given Socapex is your choice dependent upon what works best for you and yours. If you go the Brady with heat shrink tubing route you can always remove and add fresh heat shrink tubing if / when required. Purchasing a proper heat shrink gun is a good investment; useful for thawing frozen vehicle locks, helping to dry mopped up spills, drying some paints and glues or even warming your fingers if this is a problem in your climate. (Not to mention reheating your coffee or brandy.)
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
You shouldn’t be working in low light, that sucks if you are.

My statement still stands though. Make whatever you make simple and tailored to you and your own and you will just have to explain things to the overhires til they become familiar.

SL-A thru whatever

SL-1 thru 14

Super simple
 
I’d keep it simple and just do alphabetic, skip “I”, then move to AA, BB when needed. This way the mult’s are “A-1”, or “D-5”.

FWIW, Lightwright has a terrific system for managing multi labeling. Maybe look in the LW manual for suggestions.
 
This is how I refer to my socapex drops. Somebody asked me why I only write down the first number, and I said I only need to know the first, the others are then self explanatory. My cable is marked with both numbers but the first number is in a larger & bold font.
I have the cables color coded for use in my rep plot. Orange is 2E, Yellow is 3E, Green is 4E. My first is a raceway. When I am in a different configuration and using pre-rigged truss, Red is DS and Blue is US. So many of my soca cables have a truss color and an electric color.
I have a very experienced crew, so when I need specific numbers, I tell them what I need. If I haven't pre-assigned dimmers, I just tell them how many socapex to what batten from SR and from SL.
Most of the time, unless it is for my rep plot, I can repatch the console faster than getting specific socapex.
YMMV,
John

The former, definitely. Matches precedence touring racks have set.
But...I'd stick with numbers. With letters you need a chart somewhere that says "A"=1-6, "B"=7-12, and so on. You'll see lots of people counting on their fingers.
Instead, label and refer to them as "531", "537", "543", with the understanding that the next five circuits follow sequentially (just as one would address a moving light).
 
Well you could, but what numbnut electrician thinks a multi starts at "0" ?

Nevermind
@SteveB When it comes to counting "numbnut electricians" ; I'd bet you can't count that high, even with your shoes off. ( Not even if you drop your drawers as well )
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard
 
You shouldn’t be working in low light, that sucks if you are.

My statement still stands though. Make whatever you make simple and tailored to you and your own and you will just have to explain things to the overhires til they become familiar.

SL-A thru whatever

SL-1 thru 14

Super simple

"Shouldn't be working in low light" You always have full work lights when you are doing anything in a venue? I'm jealous.
 
I’d keep it simple and just do alphabetic, skip “I”, then move to AA, BB when needed. This way the mult’s are “A-1”, or “D-5”.

FWIW, Lightwright has a terrific system for managing multi labeling. Maybe look in the LW manual for suggestions.

Thanks for the LW info, I will have to check out what they have as suggestions.
 
Regarding "I" and "O" -- The ETC Sensor racks I've got have Soca outputs labelled by the alphabet, including "I" and "O", so that's how I label my multi. But then, I run socapex straight through the dimmers, and don't have gridiron junction boxes to deal with.

@SteveB -- One venue in the Boston area has the individual circuits of their breakouts labelled as "0", "+1", "+2", etc. From a mathemetician's standpoint it umm .. it makes sense. Less so from an experienced theater technician's. I can't recall the vendor who supplied them labelled that way.

For the OP -- If you're not re-assigning dimmers each show (I hope not!), I would stick with @dereklefflew and @JohnPalmer's suggestion of just indicating the first dimmer number in the range. You might have a few that are also "141-Odd" and "142-Even" depending on the installer's sense of humor. Everyonce in a while I run into a space where the circuits aren't numbered sequentially (*glares at a different venue in the Boston area*) and it does help to write the actual dimmers in their actual order.

It sounds like you could assign them letters if you separate out the FOH gallery ones; so you'd have FOH-A, FOH-B, ... SR-A, SR-B ... SL-A, SL-C. At that point I'd consider color-coding them just to prevent SR and SL from getting mixxed up too often.

I find yellow and purple are a lot easier to distinguish under low light levels; you could also do multiple stripes (dark-light-dark vs. light-dark-light) if it ends up being mission-critical.
 

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