Conventional Fixtures Led PAR technologies

pchaussalet

New Member
Hi all,
I am looking for some cheap (as in Chinese cheap) led PARs and I am a bit confused by what seems to be different types and how they compare with each other.
I see fixtures with a lot of low power leds (like a Chauvet SlimPar 64 or this: https://www.shehds.com/products/fas...sh-light-stage-uplighting-ktv-disco-dj-dmx512) but also others that have a smaller amount of more powerful leds (like this: https://www.shehds.com/products/led-flat-par-7x12w-7x18w-rgbwauv-lighting).

I am a bit confused, I have a few SlimPar 64 in place currently and they are too dim for my current needs, but at the same time as soon as they are just a bit facing the audience, they're also pretty blinding... Would a mode with less leds (but more powerful ones) be a better solution?
 
I am a bit confused, I have a few SlimPar 64 in place currently and they are too dim for my current needs, but at the same time as soon as they are just a bit facing the audience, they're also pretty blinding... Would a mode with less leds (but more powerful ones) be a better solution?
This is the difference between direct lighting and reflective lighting. When pointing directly at the audience they are seeing the uninterrupted light source. When facing away from the audience they see the light that is being reflected off the sets/cast.
I can't help you anymore but suggest you get some different fixtures in your space and try them.
 
You're running into a common problem. Wattage of LEDs doesn't particularly equate to output on the wall. There's some very rough correlation, especially if you can keep it within a product line or manufacturer. Even total lumen output only gives you an order of magnitude estimate, and can be a flat out lie depending on the manufacturer, or if they even tested it at all. Often those numbers can be "true" within whatever parameters they set, but aren't actually useful to compare any two things.

As a VERY rough guideline, anything that you can see "skittles" on (that the colors are homogenized before the lens) is an older version of technology, and likely doesn't have as much output. That isn't even close to 100% true, but it is a good start to compare those two things you were looking at.

A demo in your space is the only true way to be sure whether something is correct or not. At the price of these units, order one of each and see what you like. That particular manufacturer doesn't seem to have much of a return policy, but at the price those units are, you'd probably pay more in shipping to get it back to them, than just keeping it.
 
You're running into a common problem. Wattage of LEDs doesn't particularly equate to output on the wall. There's some very rough correlation, especially if you can keep it within a product line or manufacturer. Even total lumen output only gives you an order of magnitude estimate, and can be a flat out lie depending on the manufacturer, or if they even tested it at all. Often those numbers can be "true" within whatever parameters they set, but aren't actually useful to compare any two things.

As a VERY rough guideline, anything that you can see "skittles" on (that the colors are homogenized before the lens) is an older version of technology, and likely doesn't have as much output. That isn't even close to 100% true, but it is a good start to compare those two things you were looking at.

A demo in your space is the only true way to be sure whether something is correct or not. At the price of these units, order one of each and see what you like. That particular manufacturer doesn't seem to have much of a return policy, but at the price those units are, you'd probably pay more in shipping to get it back to them, than just keeping it.
^^^ THIS. RIGHT. HERE.

And when you decide what make/model/etc, buy an extra 20% for spares. You'll thank us 3-8 years from now.
 
^^^ THIS. RIGHT. HERE.

And when you decide what make/model/etc, buy an extra 20% for spares. You'll thank us 3-8 years from now.
Also be prepared for the product you bought to demo to not be the product available when you go back to buy more after the demo.
 
Also be prepared for the product you bought to demo to not be the product available when you go back to buy more after the demo.
And that's why I say to order 20% more as spares. A re-order will never match.
 

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