Painting new masonite (hardboard) overlay

It seems to have been getting more and more difficult to find the sort of board everyone seems to agree you want to use for this, to the point where, the last time I was involved in one first hand, it seemed nobody *made* the damn stuff.

It still seems to be an open question whether you need to paint all 6 sides before you lay it.
 
Yes but you want the plain tempered hardboard for "OEMs and distributors" and not sure Lowe's can get that.

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I actually just ordered a panel from DPI supplier. Casue I'm having this very issue with my stage after repainting. And No luck with it, it's just as bad as the low grade stuff from the big box stores. Tested three areas with gaffer tape pressed down and removed 8 hours later. #1 one coat of premium primer and two coats of Rosco Tough Prime, #2 two coats of Rosco Tough Prime, #3 straight to hardboard. All failed miserably.

Hate to say. I'm on the hunt to find a supplier for Grade 1 Tempered hardboard. But it's extremely hard to fine.

Just sucks, cause my venue is only 18 months old (currently)
 

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I'm curious, how long did you let the primer dry?

I was about to ask a similar question earlier, but then I realized the no-paint test kind of negates any issues with painting process. If the top layer of unpainted hardboard pulls away with the tape, then it doesn't matter as much how well the paint bonds to that top layer. It would have to soak deeper into the material in order increase the bond between layers of hardboard. I wouldn't expect regular paint/primer to penetrate deeply enough into the hardboard to have that effect... but maybe the concrete sealer mentioned in a previous post actually did?
 
The now-retired employee at our PAC used a specific Sherwin-Williams coating that he thinned with an oil of some kind. I recall a cure time of 4 days. With a light sanding between coats every 24 month, it held up well. I wish I knew the exact products and proportions.
 
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I was about to ask a similar question earlier, but then I realized the no-paint test kind of negates any issues with painting process. If the top layer of unpainted hardboard pulls away with the tape, then it doesn't matter as much how well the paint bonds to that top layer. It would have to soak deeper into the material in order increase the bond between layers of hardboard. I wouldn't expect regular paint/primer to penetrate deeply enough into the hardboard to have that effect... but maybe the concrete sealer mentioned in a previous post actually did?
I did let the primer coat dry for 4 days, and than the top coat laters dry for 12 days before applying tape. but yes, it was never the paint that failed it was the top laminated layer of the hardboard that failed. I'm looking into other products to redo the top layer of my stage at this point. But I might look into that concrete sealer, usually that has some self-etching properties.
 
Moisture can loosen the internal bonding on any partial based material. 12 days should cover that unless the humidity is Florida high.
 
A couple of years ago in this discussion I recommended a coat of concrete sealer prior to painting. Did anyone ever try that? We'll be coming up on another recover in a year or so and it would be good to know of other's experience.
 
I've often wondered why no one has tried MDO ply other than I don't think it comes thinner than 1/2 inch.. and is expensive.
But it's the stuff that is made for outdoor signs... so it takes and holds paint. the "Medium density overlay" surface is smooth and impervious.

edit... I just checked... and flooring is one of it's approved uses. but it's currently about 77 bucks a sheet as a single 4x8 But some folks have even built boats with it.
 
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I've often wondered why no one has tried MDO ply other than I don't think it comes thinner than 1/2 inch.. and is expensive.
But it's the stuff that is made for outdoor signs... so it takes and holds paint. the "Medium density overlay" surface is smooth and impervious.

edit... I just checked... and flooring is one of it's approved uses. but it's currently about 77 bucks a sheet as a single 4x8 But some folks have even built boats with it.
I would guess price... but Plyron isn't exactly cheap either.

Contractors at one of my schools did just use MDO to patch a section of floor right in front of the main door to the stage, so it will be interesting to see how that holds up. It will see a lot of concentrated wheeled traffic in particular. Not 100% on what they used for paint, but I think it was Rosco Tough Prime.
 

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