Traveling with Oversized Scenery

Hey guys, I work on a show that travels with a LARGE set flat. its dimensions are 10'x12' with an additional 2"x4" frame around the back to give it structure. This thing is impossible to transport, it doesn't fit in any trucks properly, and barely gets in the door of the venues we go to. it is a hard flat (3 10'x6' plywood boards) painted white with a decal across the front. the flat is front lit during the show. does anyone have any suggestions on what we could do to better transport it and maintain a seemingly seamless look on the flat during the show?
 
The easiest solution would to better design the scenery so it folds. I don't think flats that big would even fit in a car or horse trailer.
 
Short of a complete redesign? Cut it down the middle and hinge it.
 
Remove the decal, apply it to a piece of muslin, hing the frame, stretch it every day on velcro. You can also just do the cut as clean as possible (cut from the non-seen side, put tape on the cut line, just like you are cutting countertop. Hing it, put a few stiffeners in on loose-pin hinges, and go at it.
 
Yeah it really sounds like something you could use a Da-Lite screen for and have the facing printed on a vinyl. Fold eveything up into a 6' long bag and another bag for the vinyl. Heck even if you broke the flats down to a smaller siz and applied a frame to the front that a vinyl sheet could atttach to it would seen a better solution.
 
As everybody has already pointed out, the real problem is not with the set piece but with the Technical design and implementation. the scenic design is not the problem. Many shows have large scenic pieces that would be impossible to tour, but when they DO tour, the way they are built is redesigned. I once toured Bye, Bye Birdie and everything, E V E R Y T H I N G, fit into 30" x 48" x 60" aircraft cargo containers, (as you probably guessed, a USO show).

Now for the unit you are stuck with. IIUC, the show surface is adhered to a hard backing, can't be peeled off without damage. One possibility, carefully score the back along the 12' axis just on the sides of the Decal until the unit will fold to the face in a 3 fold. It won't fold flat due to the framing but the folds from the side to the decal to the other side would be be a size to fit through a standard door.

As suggested earlier, cut the decal off, out of the center, cut the backing piece in two and coffin lock to butt join or hinge to fold. Velcro or carpet tape the decal back on at each stop.

cut the decal out and then cut the background into pieces, with the decal as a center point. With 4 pieces the seams make a cross behind the decal. With 5 or more you have a star-burst behind the decal. Old design trick, hide by emphasis, cover the seams as each stop with colored tape, or 1x3 painted in a contrasting color to make a raised decoration or...... Use you imagination. If the original designer is on tour, tactfully ask for his input because you are worried that you will damage the unit in transit or have to cut it apart at the last minute to get into a stage.

Other ways..... Think about how the unit is framed and built. Remember straight front low angle lighting helps hide seams and joins. high angle or side light makes them stand out.

HTH.
 
I don't know the context of your show, but for a lot of my modular/rental scenic pieces I find ways to incorporate the seams into the design so they look on purpose, rather than trying to hide them.
 

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