Automated Fixtures VL 2000 Wash No Lamp Strike

[joeboo46]

OK VariLite folks, here is the issue. I have a VL2K wash that will strike when sitting upright on it's base with no struggle at all, but when it is inverted (hung) it will not even attempt to strike (i.e. no noise from the igniter at all.)

Here is what i have tried, check all connections to ballast and logic board, replaced the igniter, and put a new lamp in the unit. Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated. I have had a few units that have done this in the past, so I am assuming it is not that uncommon, but at this point I do not have the option to return the unit to the shop as I have done in the past. Thank You in advance!

 

[soundman]

Could be a safety switch. Never been in a 2K myself but if there is a switch to make sure the lamp housing is closed might be reading incorrectly.

 

[TimMiller]

Try swapping the logic board or inverting it if there is enough slack in the wires. I have seen units where the position sensor freaks out the unit.

 

[JD]

I believe it strikes at the end of housekeeping after it finds all its "0" points. Not making it through housekeeping when hung that way, never gets to the line in the program that tells it to strike. Look for any mechanical obstructions that show up in that position. (Example, foreign object rolling around that gets in the way.)

 

[millamber]

There is a strike shortcut using the LCD menu, I think it is hitting enter and Up at the same time, that will send a strike command regardless of the boot up procedure.

My first thought is a broken wire or loose connection in the ignitor circuit that is only making connection when flipped on its base. Could also be a bad relay that gravity is pulling open when it is inverted.

 

[chawalang]

i would also check you relay and thermals. An easy way to tell if it is an issue with the logic board or the relay is to put your ear by the relay once you turn the fixture on. If you hear a click that means the relay has closed and you have full signal flow from the ballast-> relay->ignnitor->lampbase->lamp. If for some reason you dont hear this my first thought in trouble shooting would be the logic card as there may be a communication error from the card to the relay. I believe the 2000's have two logic boards unlike the 2500's that have one. make sure the cables are all good going into the connector to the board sometimes they can slide out and may need to be pushed back in, the connector will connect to pins labeled relay on the logic board. if you hear the click you know your relay, logic board and thermal switches are good. If the connection to the logic is all good your thermals would be the next thing to check again if a thermal switch is bad you wont hear that click because they run directly to the relay, if they are not functioning properly the relay wont close thus breaking you signal flow between the ballast and ignitor. make sure all the wires are snug into the thermal switch as well. going off of a 2500 there would be a thermal switch on the plate for the fix gobo/ fix color wheel module it looks like a little tab screwed down to the plate with two small wires going into a disconnect for when you need to remove the module for cleaning. the other thermal switch is located by the lamp on the UV filter which is the one that goes bad between the two 90% of the time. Make sure all the cable are snug on that as well. It could be the inverting the hang from perch position to underhung is unseating some connection somewhere thats causing the relay not to close, hope this helps and let me know what you find out.

 

[derekleffew]

Could be a safety switch. Never been in a 2K myself but if there is a switch to make sure the lamp housing is closed might be reading incorrectly.

That could be it, a loose cover or defective switch. There's a mercury switch inside that reads whether the fixture is base up or base down, but I believe this is only used to flip the display to its proper orientation. One of the best features of older Martin lights (Mac500, 600, 2000, and maybe new ones also--I can't remember) is that pushing both arrows at the time inverts the display. On many other manufacturer's lights, one has to read upside thru several menu layers to get to that setting.

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On a totally unrelated note, today I hung Sharpy s (weighed more thought they would; I doubt it was the chrome finish) for the first time. And Mac Auras (liked those a lot). A strange plot: Mac250 Entour s hanging next to Mac2000 Wash XB s? Also 4 MAC III Performance units (too big, too heavy!) on the front truss.

 

[RonaldBeal]

Used to see that problem a fair bit.... If you open the cover over the ballast, you will see a choke that has one leg seperated from the board... when the light is sitting in a "floor" position, gravity keeps the choke on its solder point... when you hang the fixture, gravity pulls the choke away, and it opens the circuit.
RB