Automated Fixtures Weird issue with Martin MAC 600

[compuryan]

I'm a light technician onboard a Royal Caribbean Cruise ship and I have a problem with a Martin MAC 600 (magnetic) that after hours spent troubleshooting and trial & error, I am no closer to a solution for. I've also looked online but there oddly doesn't seem to be a Martin forum dedicated to their moving lights (only for controllers).

Anyhow, the problem is that when I power on the fixture, all the motors engage as normal during reset but they spin VERY slowly, such that all wheels barely move and fixture does not pan or tilt at all. If I allow the unit to eventually time out, I get DIER, COER, CYER, B1ER error messages. However, nothing in the head homes correctly. It isn't just that side of the module that doesn't home correctly. The issue seems likely to be related to the magnetic sensors. If I unplug the sensor board (during reset) for the dimmer, cyan, color wheel, and beam 1 wheel, the fixture springs to life and completes the reset at normal speed, but still doesn't home correctly (for the obvious reason that I unplugged the sensors). Unplugging the sensor board on the other side does not produce the same result, leading me to believe it is the cyan, etc. sensor board at fault.

What I have tried so far (none of which has helped):

• Watched all the wheels during several reset cycles, they always spin past the magnets several times and time out
• Checked that all of the magnets are in the correct position and not de-magnetized
• Checked that the sensors were withing 1mm of wheels
• Checked that power taps were correct (they were not orginally but that has been fixed)
• Replaced Main PCB (3 times!)
• Replaced both sensor boards
• Replaced sensor wireset between main PCB and head and the one that splits from the head to the sensor boards themselves.
• Replaced transformer (in case the motors weren't getting enough power)
• Unplugged the motors one by one during reset to see if any of them are causing the issue

I have almost every kind of spare part available brand new and in stock. However I don't want to be opening every single part I have trying to pinpoint this issue.

If anyone could provide any insight or advice in regards to fixing this issue it would be very helpful.

Thanks very much,

Ryan

 

[abbyt]

Ryan,

It sounds to me, from the behavior you describe, that you were on the right track suspecting one of your magnetic sensors. I would suspect, at this point, one of the wheels not homing correctly. Even though the magnet on the wheel may be good...and even though the sensor may be good, and even though the magnet and sensor may be the correct distance between each other, it still may not be lining up correctly. It could also be the frost or dimming wheel that is the culprit.

If you're trained to be inside the hood of these guys and know how to take the proper safety precautions...

You could also meter your hall sensor boards, just to make sure. They have three legs. On two of them (varies as per sensor) you'll find 5vDC. When the magnet crosses their path in the right tolerance and alignment, that 5vDC will disappear...only to reappear when the magnet is gone again.

However, it sounds like that may not be the culprit...

I'd suggest moving each wheel ONE step at a time (if memory serves, you can get into the util menu or the test menu and move each wheel step by step). I suspect what you'll find is just in front of the hall sensor (but not directly over the top of it), the magnet will stop, and advancing one more step, the magnet will pass the hall sensor and land just on the other side of it. Having the correct clearance and alignment may be tricking you into thinking this is not the culprit.

To remedy this situation, again- if you're properly trained- with the fixture powered up, step each wheel until it lines directly up with the magnets. If they're off- while still powered up, take your 2.5mm (or whatever size- I can't remember off the top of my head, sorry) allen wrench and loosen the wheel just enough to spin it on the motor shaft- *without moving the shaft itself*. Sometimes this is a bit difficult due to the "bite" that the tiny allen set screw has into the motor shaft.

You could also take a known working module and swap them. It seems to be the only thing you have not done. That would rule out motor, belt, and sensor issues, as well.

Good luck, and please do let us know what the results are!

Abby
-Martin bench service technician, among many other hats I wear..

 

[SouthFloridaSFX]

Ryan,
there are a few things that come to mind. First off I know you said you checked your taps but make sure your voltage setting is correct and your Hertz setting. Im not sure on the other fixtures but some boards do have a 50/60 hertz selectable switch.

Next start at the top and work down.
First remove a hall effects sensor from a wheel. Power the unit up and with a good strong magnet run it over the sensor. The wheel should stop. I have had bad magnets before. Next, check the hall sensor for 5V accross the 1-2 pines. If working it should drop to -5 volts on the 3 pin. Check continuety on the wires from sensor to board. What sensor connector do you have at the board? Is it a 6 pin? You said you replaced the main board so I really wouldnt suspect bad driver chips.

Jon

 

[compuryan]

Hi,

Thanks both of you for the advice.

A couple of days ago I actually took the module from this fixture (hereby known as fixture #1) to complete a second fixture that needed a heck of a lot of work. In the process of fixing the second fixture I discovered that there was still one bad sensor but that wasn't what was causing the erratic behavior. The module worked flawlessly in the 2nd fixture after replacing that sensor.

I should have mentioned that I had already tested all the magnets as well just in case, forgot to include that in my first post.

Now I need to find/build a new module for fixture #1 and also another lamp base . Not sure I have any left. However I think I am down to the conclusion that there is something wrong with the sensor wiring. Either a short, backwards connection, or something. In the process of troubleshooting fixture #2 I tried flipping the sensor connector at the mainboard end and that caused it to replicate fixture 1's issue.

Anyway it looks like I'm stuck for the time being until I can find some parts but at least the problem looks to be mostly solved.

Thanks again for the help.

Ryan

 

[LavaASU]

Hi,

Either a short, backwards connection, or something. In the process of troubleshooting fixture #2 I tried flipping the sensor connector at the mainboard end and that caused it to replicate fixture 1's issue.

Ryan

Have you tried flipping the sensor connector on Fixture #1? . Also check to make sure it is the same revision of the mainboard and wiring ect al. I've seen some fixtures where different versions of the logic/main board are completely different.

 

[compuryan]

Yes, that will be among the first things I try, after I procure all of the parts I need for that fixture now

I got the idea because one of my spare PCBs has all the connectors mounted upside-down compared to the others.

 

[SouthFloridaSFX]

Ok good, let me know if u need schematics.

 

[PaulP514]

This is definitely a case of a short sensor circuit.

Let me explain how the MAC 500/600 logic works.

When the fixture reset the step the software does is to send a command to all motors to move while doing this is check to ensure all HAL sensors are open...
Motors will keep rotating until this condition is met.
In you case there's always a sensor set that is short...

So unplug the sensor conneectors for the tow small PCB on the Color module.
Is this help either the PCB sensor is deffective or the 3 pin connector is plugged reverse.
If this doesn't help, the problem is further down.

Unplug the sensor connnectors from the Main PCB.
If this help then you might have a deffective wirset.

Otherwise you have a unlikely short on the main PCB...