what type of connectors are these?
- Thread startermichael728
- Start date
michael728
Member
do you know what they are used for? this is supposed to be a dimmer rack, im trying to figure out how to plug some socapex into it.
michael728
Member
hmm, the rack is supposed to be good for 20a per channel.
What about the front connections, anyone know?
The term multi-pair is usually used to denote control/data/signal cable, not line voltage (mains) cable. The UK term is multicore, US uses multi-cable.
Harting connectors are used in UK/Europe, and perhaps AUS? For more see Lectriflex - Blue Room wiki .
The connectors on the front in the upper right-hand corner remind me of some (Avolites?) patch bays. I also don't understand the eight female single-pole connectors (assuming power input) on the back.
I'm guessing this is a UK dimmer pack that has snuck into the US, and likely won't even work with our 120/208VAC, 3Ø, Wye-connected, 60Hz power.
Last edited:
It's just another form of multi-pin connector, but 16A instead of 20A. I've only seen them used on Robert Juliat followspots. While more common in Europe, Harting does do some work here in the States as well. You would need to create adapters from those connectors to 19-pin connectors or install new panel-mount connectors. With 24 circuits on the front panel, you'd want (4) 19-pin connectors.
Something's fishy about that setup, though. Each connector has 16 contacts plus a ground. To fit 6 circuits on a connector, it must have shared neutrals or missing ground wires. Either way, it's undesirable.
Another thing you'll want to pay attention to are the circuit breakers/dimmers. With a 16A connector, they're probably rated for 15A or 16A. They should not be rated for 20A (but that doesn't mean they aren't). When you switch to 19-pin, 20A connectors, you'll still be limited to whatever those are rated for as well as whatever the internal wiring is sized for. You won't be fitting any 20A loads on there without a complete overhaul.
EDIT: I see where the pin out weirdness comes from as per Derek's post. It's not a 1:1 ground wire configuration, which is something you'll have problems with if you make adapters for 19-pin connectors because for that you'll want 6 home runs for ground wires while these can't provide that many.
Something's fishy about that setup, though. Each connector has 16 contacts plus a ground. To fit 6 circuits on a connector, it must have shared neutrals or missing ground wires. Either way, it's undesirable.
Another thing you'll want to pay attention to are the circuit breakers/dimmers. With a 16A connector, they're probably rated for 15A or 16A. They should not be rated for 20A (but that doesn't mean they aren't). When you switch to 19-pin, 20A connectors, you'll still be limited to whatever those are rated for as well as whatever the internal wiring is sized for. You won't be fitting any 20A loads on there without a complete overhaul.
EDIT: I see where the pin out weirdness comes from as per Derek's post. It's not a 1:1 ground wire configuration, which is something you'll have problems with if you make adapters for 19-pin connectors because for that you'll want 6 home runs for ground wires while these can't provide that many.
Last edited:
michael728
Member
from user manual:
POWER SUPPLY-------------------------------------- SINGLE PHASE AC 220V 50-60HZ
3-PHASEAC 380V 50-60HZ
...
24 Channel Portable Digital Dimmer Rack
Digital LCD display, DMX input
Three type: 10A, 20A or 30A for options
Technical Parameters:
Item name: 24CH Portable Digital Dimmer Pack
Unit size: 550 X 480 X 420 mm
Unit weight:34kgs
Voltage: AC 110-120V/60Hz, AC 220-240V/ 50Hz
Functions and Features:
*Digital LCD display, DMX input
*Three type: 10A, 20A or 30A for options
*Microcomputer control
*Separate DMX addressing for each channel
*Built-in 12 programs, speed adjustable
*Phase correction activates linear dimming (0-100%)
*Control curve selectable from switch to linear
*Electronic protection against overheating and short circuits
*Power failure memory
... that should work in the US right?
Last edited:
I saw that, but in the context of this discussion it's undesirable for adapting to a 19-pin connector from these 16-pin connectors through a cable because at the end of the multi-cable you'll be missing some ground wires in your break-outs.
Not without the appropriate voltage converter/transformer, and then it could only power 230V lamps. 120V lamps would be REALLY bright, but not for very long--five to thirty seconds.
Since you have the manual, for future reference, what is the make and model?
EDIT: Nevermind. Found it.
I have no desire to continue discussing an Asian-made product not intended, nor Listed, for the North American market. I suggest you direct all further inquiries to the manufacturer's support center: Mr. Jonny Wong. He looks like a very nice fellow, and I'm sure he can answer all your questions better than we can.
Last edited:
michael728
Member
EDIT: I should've noticed the 4-wire input connectors as an immediate red flag. If you don't already own this rack, don't buy it. If you do, you got suckered into something awful. The costs for you to make it usable will probably outweigh the costs of getting a real rack made here in the States that's intended to work with 3Ø-120/208 Wye input power.
Last edited:
Sony
Active Member
The lack of Color Coded cam-lok connectors was the first red flag to me, the second was the fact that the cam-loks are all the same gender and the second set has absolutely no safety covers. I would run far FAR away from this thing, it is just itching for someone to connect a phase to ground and fry somebody.
michael728
Member
ETC, Strand, Leprecon, NSI, Lighttronics, EDI, and about every other company out there makes dimmer racks. ETC sensor portables are the industry standard in a 24 pack, however their smartfade packs are starting to really pick up steam. CD-80 Packs are 20+ year old technology that is still rock solid. I have never found those packs to really be too loud at all. A sensor portable rack is loud, but it all depends what you are doing.
porkchop
Well-Known Member
You have peeked my attention, how did you come by this piece of equipment? And why are you so intent on using it and not a more standard (and UL listed) manufacturer?
Sadly there's a few reasons that I think this pack will be unusable without an unreasonable investment. First off
Is European power, you would have to transform up to that voltage from a US supply that is rated at least TWICE the amperage you need at the rack, all of that promises to be expensive.
Also looking at the picture of the side without breakers, it looks like you have 4 conductors for power supply, this points to Delta connected power rather than Wye connected like we have in the US. This is fixable in the transformer but adds to the cost.
Lastly and this is more of a general question to our connector junkies, do those power supply receptacles look like they have extra insulating around the copper ring. If they do then your standard cam won't work and you'll have to find whatever connector that is and then convince who ever is powering this that it's acceptable.
And after all that, if you are going to use this in the US you are going to have it safety inspected. Most fire marshals require a UL listing, they can accept the word of a reasonably trained and experienced local electrician, but I wouldn't count on that. So then you're probably looking at having to get it field inspected by the UL listing guys. Yet another very expensive process.
After all that you would have a usable dimmer rack.
Just to give you an idea what I mean by very expensive we transform 240V/416V Delta power down to 120V/208V Wye at 200 A in and 400 A out (The opposite of what you're talking about at twice the rated amperage) and to replace that transformer with a "cheap" one from Granger would cost $15,000. Going with any other equipment would be a more cost effective solution.
Sadly there's a few reasons that I think this pack will be unusable without an unreasonable investment. First off
Is European power, you would have to transform up to that voltage from a US supply that is rated at least TWICE the amperage you need at the rack, all of that promises to be expensive.
Also looking at the picture of the side without breakers, it looks like you have 4 conductors for power supply, this points to Delta connected power rather than Wye connected like we have in the US. This is fixable in the transformer but adds to the cost.
Lastly and this is more of a general question to our connector junkies, do those power supply receptacles look like they have extra insulating around the copper ring. If they do then your standard cam won't work and you'll have to find whatever connector that is and then convince who ever is powering this that it's acceptable.
And after all that, if you are going to use this in the US you are going to have it safety inspected. Most fire marshals require a UL listing, they can accept the word of a reasonably trained and experienced local electrician, but I wouldn't count on that. So then you're probably looking at having to get it field inspected by the UL listing guys. Yet another very expensive process.
After all that you would have a usable dimmer rack.
Just to give you an idea what I mean by very expensive we transform 240V/416V Delta power down to 120V/208V Wye at 200 A in and 400 A out (The opposite of what you're talking about at twice the rated amperage) and to replace that transformer with a "cheap" one from Granger would cost $15,000. Going with any other equipment would be a more cost effective solution.
PorkChop, there's a good chance they'll make a system configured for US power. This is only one of several configurations they distribute. The problem being that it's cheap, Chinese gear, so almost no one around here wants to recommend the OP purchase any of it for a myriad of reasons none of us have the energy to go into again. It's been a popular topic lately and I'm certain if you search you can find a few threads going into the details.
michael728, you can pickup an (2) ETC SmartPack 12ch. x 10A units with Soco outs for under $3500 and they'll last forever and have reliable manufacturer's support.
michael728, you can pickup an (2) ETC SmartPack 12ch. x 10A units with Soco outs for under $3500 and they'll last forever and have reliable manufacturer's support.
