Help for newbie

Simple is as simple does....I was hoping to just be able to do some color wash changes, for right now. Later I would like to utilize i cues etc.
 
Back of console shows two universes 1-512 and 513-1024? Only 1-512 has cable plugged in. Here are two pic's of what is next to dimmer racks

Just to expand on the knowledge base of this post, DMX only has 512 adresses of controll, but inside the computer in the console you can have adresses higher, adresses 513 through 1024 in the board are sent out throguh the second universe, 513=1, 514=2, ect... so when the time comes and you want to use universe two don't try to address your moving lights to 513.
 
To use universe two, you would patch an address (in the board) as 513. This would correspond to DMX address 1 for any fixtures connected to universe two. to differentiate between the universes in the board you need to look at the patch, any address (called dimmer in the patch menu) 513 through 1024 is sent to the universe two outlet. but when it is sent out of the board it is sent as standard DMX so the address (Board) 513 corresponds to address (DMX) 1. so you would address your fixtures to whatever starting address you patched just offset by 513.
 
If it is an input then there is no signal coming from it to daisy to the moving lights or LED's.

You can use a gender changer to tap off that connection if you wanted to, those pins become live with DMX when DMX is fed into the system from the board. The reason for the connector is so that two DMX feeds can’t be applied at the same time. The DMX signal runs on the same internal buss that the input runs off of. Basically all the DMX chip does is take a signal sample off the line. I think the funny part is so many people talk about terminating DMX properly but no one puts terminators in their unused stage ports not realizing that they are running an unterminated system. Unless their dimmers have the termination function built in.
 
You can use a gender changer to tap off that connection if you wanted to, those pins become live with DMX when DMX is fed into the system from the board. The reason for the connector is so that two DMX feeds can’t be applied at the same time. The DMX signal runs on the same internal buss that the input runs off of. Basically all the DMX chip does is take a signal sample off the line. I think the funny part is so many people talk about terminating DMX properly but no one puts terminators in their unused stage ports not realizing that they are running an unterminated system. Unless their dimmers have the termination function built in.

Good point.
 
You can use a gender changer to tap off that connection if you wanted to, those pins become live with DMX when DMX is fed into the system from the board. The reason for the connector is so that two DMX feeds can’t be applied at the same time. The DMX signal runs on the same internal buss that the input runs off of. Basically all the DMX chip does is take a signal sample off the line. I think the funny part is so many people talk about terminating DMX properly but no one puts terminators in their unused stage ports not realizing that they are running an unterminated system. Unless their dimmers have the termination function built in.

I figured that would be the case but didn't want to over-complicate things for the OP since we can't personally see his system.
 
You can use a gender changer to tap off that connection if you wanted to, those pins become live with DMX when DMX is fed into the system from the board. ...
Just because one CAN, doesn't mean on SHOULD.
Problem: I was installing them today. And well, it was a mis-read. DMX INPUT not OUTPUT. So I can hook up a board from backstage but I cant run annything with DMX without running a new cable.
The gender of the panel-mount connector should have been your first clue. With DMX, "the male always goes home," home being the console. Likewise, "females have all the power, and males always want the power."

The building is likely wired one of three ways:
1) Booth DMX Input goes to dimmers' DMX Input A and Stage DMX Input goes to dimmers' DMX Input B, and dimmers are set to take either or both on an HTP basis. This is the only "proper" wiring, but means that the Stage Input cannot be used as an output.
2) The Booth DMX Input loops through the Stage DMX Input, then onto the dimmers.
3) The Booth DMX Input and the Stage DMX Input are both homerun to the dimmers, where they are two-fered on the same dimmer input.
Both 2&3 are incorrect, but you could, with an A5F-A5F turnaround or cable, use the Stage Input as an Output. IF you're going to do this, it IS STRONGLY ADVISED that you use an opto-isolator immediately after the Stage "output."
If scenario#2 above (the most likely), once one changes the input into an output, one has created a Y-cable split. From Doug Fleenor Design - DMX Primer :
Splitting

Never split a DMX signal with a "wye" cable. Use a splitter device that buffers each line separately or daisy chain from device to device.

The problem with splitting the signal with a wye cable is that the signal going up one leg of the wye is reflected back down and corrupts the signal going down the other leg. The longer the legs of the wye, the worse the problem. A wye where each leg is 10 feet may work fine but may fail if the legs are increased to 100 feet. A lot has to do with the quality of the cable, the strength of the signal at the wye point, and your relationship with God.
Always better to run a long cable from output#2 on the console, to the DMX devices.
 
It's not splitting, if it was splitting then every light and dimmer on the market is splitting. Look at the schematics and tell me what you see.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
 
It's not splitting, if it was splitting then every light and dimmer on the market is splitting. ...
@IAmLumenator,
It's always been a big no-no to split a DMX signal with a passive splitter, but every fixture I repair always has direct continuity between the in and out ports. I understand reflections are an issue, is this possible because the split happens so close to the fixture electronics? ...
To answer your original question, yes, in most fixtures with a passive pass-through, the DMX actually forms a "T" with the fixture being the third wheel. The very short distance and high tolerance of the protocol allows this to work. ...
See also this and subsequent post.

... Look at the schematics and tell me what you see.
Which schematics exactly?
 
After the show that is currently running closes I will try out some simple DMX commands through the 513 side. Summer has lots of cleaning and maintenance in store. Just flipped down a par can and got a face full of glitter. Time for vacuums and cleaning.
 
Can anyone give me a hint at how to match up the lamp housings for the Altman fixtures we have? Several have the housing removed and I would like to be able to either repair or replace the ones that have been removed.
 
It sounds like you have two types of ellipsoidal reflector spotlights.
The older "incandescent" Altman 360, whose lamp cap uses a medium prefocus socket that uses a 500W EGE lamp (can also use 750W EGG lamp). Above, you described these radial ERS units as "45degree lamp housing."
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The other ia an Altman 360Q axial ERS Leko, which has a medium bipin socket and uses either a 500W EHD or 750W EHG lamp. I would suggest you start using a newer lamp, the 575W GLC, which has an improved, more compact, filament geometry.
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Both the 360 and 360Q use a cap gasket, piece of stamped metal that fits between the lamp cap and the fixture. --I can't remember right off but I believe these are interchangeable between the two.
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Often lost/unused, but important to control unwanted light spill out of the back of the luminaire and retail for about $3-5 each.
 
The 360 is what I am looking at right now. The lamp caps are removed from some and in a drawer. Would like to be safe and replace the wiring, as I am unsure of the condition of the lamp caps in the drawer. Thanks for the lamp number. We are a struggling Community theatre and need to repair as many thing as possible for the least amount of cost. But I guess that's everybody's issue.
 
RE: 360 lamp caps,
Does the wiring really need to be replaced? Is it asbestos? Is the insulation missing / cracking / deteriorated? I believe Production Advantage and others have "wiring kits" available, which may or may not include a new socket. (In the case of 360Q, the wires are permanently attached to the socket.)
As for checking condition of MPF sockets, the center contact button is spring-mounted and should move freely and spring back with moderate amount of force. Any signs of blackening of the contact is a sign of arcing and the socket should probably be replaced.

There are lots of threads discussing the medium prefocus socket used in both radial ERS and smaller fresnels. Here's one: Conventional Fixtures - Century-Strand socket for 2331 | ControlBooth . Lots of other threads about replacing asbestos instrument leads. Just start typing stuff into the search box.

State where you are in New York, and perhaps a nearby CB member would be willing to drop by and give you an assessment to help you develop a plan of attack. Failing that, is there a college or university nearby? Don't be afraid to reach out to either the Technical Director or one of his/her students.
 

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