hello :) ; SourceFour flaking paint

[2nd year studiog]

I am a fairly new owner to a dance studio/small theater and looking to add some used etc source four's to the theater. I have located some for sale but the top half (closest to light/bulb) supposedly lost its paint due to heat according to current owner. It essentially looks half silver (upper half) and half black (lower half where etc name is printed). Is this normal? Should I be concerned with these lights? It seems all they have for sale are like this. 20+ units

 

[rsmentele]

Welcome to the booth!

I know that a few years back they had issues with a batch loosing paint over time, this could be part of that run. In my opinion, they should work just fine. Other's may feel differently.

 

[derekleffew]

[Moving this thread to Lighting forum...]

I have located some for sale but the top half (closest to light/bulb) supposedly lost its paint due to heat according to current owner. ... Is this normal? Should I be concerned with these lights?

Normal for older fixtures, yes. It means they have been "rode hard, (not) put away wet." Housing can be cleaned of any remaining paint and repainted with satin/flat engine or BBQ paint. (The manufacturer does not recommend this: https://www.etcconnect.com/Support/Articles/Painting-Source-Four.aspx , but they are in business to sell fixtures; some rental shops repaint their units after every rental.) More importantly, it may be indicative of the need for a TP22H socket replacement http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/broken-leko-burner.27456/ and possibly a new reflector http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/what-to-do-with-flaking-source-4-reflectors.33807/ as well.

BTW, the reflector housing, the part of your fixtures that has lost paint, is colloquially called the "pineapple" (because that area of the now-discontinued Altman 360Q ERS is said to resemble a pineapple ((if one squint s at it from far enough away)) ).

 

[mikeydoesstuff]

However, if you are getting flakes of any sort from the INSIDE of that half Here's a part you need to replace. The reflector itself also had a few early year batches with coating issues - Its an easy fix but a little costly and necessary to getting the best functioning light you can have.

 

[2nd year studiog]

Thanks for all the info...of course being new to all this does not help but at some point I did learn to ride my bike or drive my car...not exactly the same but I can learn as time goes on....so in your opinion, if I could get these s4's for $120 ea., would these potential repairs still make it a good deal or go pay more for newer or new lights? Secondly, is there a way to tell when the lights were made to see if they may have been in that batch that had the paint issues?

 

[techieman33]

I wouldn't worry about the paint issues. My roommate owns several that have been bought from different people at different times with this issue. They all work just fine, one had some reflector damage, the rest just had cosmetic issues.

 

[mikeydoesstuff]

Secondly, is there a way to tell when the lights were made to see if they may have been in that batch that had the paint issues?

There is! On the yolk of the instruments there's a small sticker that notes the year. If the exterior paint has come off its a good bet they're part of that batch. Source Fours started coming out in the late 90's (I think - I've personally never seen one before '98 but that doesn't mean much). So realistically they're not THAT old no matter where they're coming from. And the exterior paint issue doesn't affect the units integrity. So I'd go for it if the color won't be a distraction.

 

[len]

If the appearance is bothersome the best plan is to powder coat. Spray painting won't last, even the high temp stuff. Powder coating requires you to remove every non-metallic part, screw, etc., and give them a good cleaning before taking them to someone who can do it for you, but they will last for years afterward. If you don't care about appearance do nothing, as long as there is no flaking inside the fixture.

 

[derekleffew]

Source Fours started coming out in the late 90's

1992, actually. Date of manufacture will be on the yoke in mm/yy format. It might matter that fixtures prior to 1997 could not take 750 watt lamps (without modification/retrofit: http://www.controlbooth.com/threads/575w-750w-source-4.16148/ ).

if I could get these s4's for $120 ea., would these potential repairs still make it a good deal

That's about the cost for a new reflector. Sockets are around $15. A new complete fixture will be around $400 (for 19°, 26, 36, 50). Seems a decent deal.

 

[mikeydoesstuff]

1992, actually.

Thanks, now I know!

 

[Les]

Agreed with the posts above. If it were me, I'd prefer to check the reflectors, but I know that you may not know what to look for (the best way to do this without opening the unit is to spray some compressed air [or canned air] in to the pineapple through the accessory slot towards the lamp and watch for "glitter flakes".) Of course, not seeing the glitter doesn't exactly guarantee good reflectors. Chances are, the reflectors are fine.

To echo what others have said, high-heat spraypaint is good (I prefer DupliColor engine enamel), but powder coating is best. If you meet the shop's minimum order, it can be fairly affordable. I would personally do the entire units if you are worried about cosmetics, otherwise the back halves probably won't match the original color/texture. I believe the older S4's were a smooth flat black, and the newer units being a more textured black. I prefer the look and durability of the textured.

 

[StradivariusBone]

Our's are all circa 1995 and several have chipping paint. I've replaced a handful of the sockets too with the retrofit kit and it's worth noting that the new socket holder (the metal surround, not the ceramic) is unpainted entirely which is where most of our paint chipping occurs.

 

[2nd year studiog]

This is all great information and so helpful. I did purchase them for $110 ea (10 total) and all of them had the same problem with the paint gone completely on the upper half (pineapple) except for a few specs of evidence they were once black and now raw aluminum color. They were manufactured in 10/2002.

My next step is converting the Edison plugs to stage pin...what is the most cost effective way (and easiest assuming no electrical knowledge) to get me there...

 

[sk8rsdad]

With no electrical knowledge you shouldn't be doing electrical work. Find yourself a knowledgable person to teach you what needs to be done. It's not hard but there are steps to be taken to make sure it is done correctly.

 

[2nd year studiog]

What I meant was if it made sense to use and convertor from Edison to stage pin, simply plugging it in on both ends, or actually changing the plugs (which I would use someone qualified to do so). I have installed (hung and plugged in) other lighting that already had the stage pin plug using the cables to the dimmer pack...but this is a conversion and just looking for the best way to do so.

 

[rsmentele]

The most cost effective is to have a knowledgeable person simply change the connectors to Edison plugs, otherwise, they do make adapters:

http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/226741-Lex-Products-Corp-A-5014

 

[sk8rsdad]

It makes sense to replace the plugs with those used in your venue. It's both less expensive and more reliable.

 

[derekleffew]

My next step is converting the Edison plugs to stage pin...

The most cost effective is to have a knowledgeable person simply change the connectors to Edison plugs, otherwise, they do make adapters:

http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/226741-Lex-Products-Corp-A-5014

As happens all too often when discussing adapters, (MALE end first!), the above cited is the OPPOSITE of what the user needs.

@2nd year studiog, $5 for the male 2P&G plug and ~10 minutes of labor should get you what you need. Are you near any colleges or universities with a theatre program? I'd do it for a sixpack if I were closer to you.

 

[mikeydoesstuff]

Yeah, Change your fixtures to match your space - less parts needed to complete your goal, and adaptors add one more step in troubleshooting.

 

[2nd year studiog]

Sorry I was out of town but wanted to thank everyone again. Derek, vegas is a bit far but thanks for the offer!