575W & 750W Source 4

Re: Easy Question

There's no problem with removing the screw to allow the use of the HPL750W in a fixture not designated "750". See this and prior posts in the same thread.

edit: merging these posts into that thread.

Interesting to note, the screw in the lamp cap is supposed to cover the hole for the pin in dimmer double lamps (77v HPL). That pin should be on the opposite side of the lamp compared to the HPL750 so that you can't put a DD lamp in a fixture that is not being used for DD.

How do I know if I should use a 115 or 120 volt lamp?

Meter the power coming out of your circuits when the dimmer is at full.
 
What is the difference between the two (besides the nameplate sticker)? Is it just the cap and lamp socket, or are the housing and lens tube also different? I have some lens tubes that say "Rev. G", and some that are blank. Are there big differences between generations of lens tubes? Are these ok with 750's? Thanks.
 
The guts of the fixture are the same. The early 575W fixtures cannot natively accept a 750W lamp. However, you can get the retrofit kits and install them (along with a new lamp base) and then there is no reason that you can't use 750W lamps in them. The Rev.G lenses i believe are the newest revision, but there is no reason that you can't use an older lens in a newer fixture and vise-versa.
 
The guts of the fixture are the same. The early 575W fixtures cannot natively accept a 750W lamp. However, you can get the retrofit kits and install them (along with a new lamp base) and then there is no reason that you can't use 750W lamps in them. The Rev.G lenses i believe are the newest revision, but there is no reason that you can't use an older lens in a newer fixture and vise-versa.

Icewolf is correct.
 
Usually the difference between the rev's is some small manufacturing change. nothing that would affect fixture performance, just something that might make it easier to manufacture.

I believe that the main differences between the original 575 watt and newer 750 watt fixtures are a) the ability to actually accept the 750 watt lamp (with the third pin) and b) the rating of the wire running from the cap to the connector.
 
When the origional 575w S-4 Leko came out it had some alignment keyways sticking up which needed to be ground away to accept the cap of the 750w cap.

A week ago I was working on some City Theatrical S-4 follow spot fixtures that never got upgraded and made the mistake (wifie yelled about in now being useless as a pineapple now needing to replace) taking away both the four keyways and the coaxial alignment slots. Give me a break... been like ten years since the last time I did the upgrade and I was only helping more efficiently remove what one of her kids was in my area attempting to remove - already cut half way thru the thing in her not telling him sufficient that he would understand what to remove of them keyways...


Remove in grinding down the four little keyways at four out of six points on a clock and leave alone the 3:00 and 9:00 wider ones.

Beyond that the only major difference between a 575w and 750w fixture beyond the holes for the 750w lamp is in the lamp cap to the fixture. The 575w fixture will be wired with 18ga. and the 750w fixture is wired with 16ga wire. At no point unless the wire feeding the fixture is changed should you remove that pin on the lamp and even than that's bad practice to remove the little roll pin on the lamp as you never know after that what fixture such a lamp will show up in.

Can modify the body of the fixture but often cheaper and easier to replace the entire cap assembly.
 
source 4 575 vs 750

Hey All,
I have some Source Four lekos that are about 13 years old. they say "575w maximum" on the sticker on the yoke. I want to use 750w lamps in them, is there anyway to make this happen? can I buy a new lamp socket assembly, and do they make different ones?

thanks
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

I also have some new 750W S4 lekos, the socket assembly looks the same and I think they will swap easily, but I need to convert a few of the older ones.

My issue is that I bought some 750w lamps (HPL750-C) and they don't even fit into the old socket, there is an extra metal pin. the older lekos do not have a place for this pin, but the newer 750w fixtures do.

Is there a 750w lamp that does not have this extra pin? and is the wiring in the socket assembly really not able to handle the additional 250w? they are not S4 jr, just older full sized S4 lekos
 
Is there a 750w lamp that does not have this extra pin? and is the wiring in the socket assembly really not able to handle the additional 250w? they are not S4 jr, just older full sized S4 lekos

I thought the purpose of the extra pin was to simply keep someone from putting a lamp that would draw to much power, or get to hot, from being in an instrument that could not handle the higher draw or higher temp. [-]But, I could be completely off![/-]


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EDIT:
The 750W HPL lamp will always have the extra pin. As you have found out, this is to prevent them from being accidentally inserted into a lamp burner assembly that is not rated for their use

Hey, I was right!
 
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Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Hi Daveslights,

The 750W HPL lamp will always have the extra pin. As you have found out, this is to prevent them from being accidentally inserted into a lamp burner assembly that is not rated for their use.

The fix for this issue is to replace the lamp burner assembly with one that is rated for 750W. That part number is 7060A2008 (for black) and is available from any ETC Dealer.
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

right, that's my assumption. but that's only the issue with the lamp socket assembly, right? meaning if i use the body of the older ones and order a new $20 lamp socket assembly rated for 750w there's problem, correct?

and is there a difference between an HPL750 and an HPL750-C?
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Starksk,
thanks for confirming this. I had called my dealer and they gave me a part number of "7060B7019". In looking at the exploded diagram, this might just be the ceramic by it self.




Hi Daveslights,

The 750W HPL lamp will always have the extra pin. As you have found out, this is to prevent them from being accidentally inserted into a lamp burner assembly that is not rated for their use.

The fix for this issue is to replace the lamp burner assembly with one that is rated for 750W. That part number is 7060A2008 (for black) and is available from any ETC Dealer.
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Starksk, thanks for confirming this. I had called my dealer and they gave me a part number of "7060B7019". In looking at the exploded diagram, this might just be the ceramic by it self.
That is correct. 7060B7019 is just the ceramic socket with leads.

right, that's my assumption. but that's only the issue with the lamp socket assembly, right? meaning if i use the body of the older ones and order a new $20 lamp socket assembly rated for 750w there's problem, correct?...
You will need to order the full assembly 7060A2008 because the metal changed to have a hole to fit the 750W lamp. You cannot simply change the socket assembly.
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Not that I'd ever recommend this of course, all it would unleash all the demons of h3ll, but I've heard tell an urban myth of some users simply removing the non-conductive pin on the HPL750 lamp. It almost seems as though some lamp manufacturer planned this, as the extra pin is so easily removable.
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Not that I'd ever recommend this of course, all it would unleash all the demons of h3ll, but I've heard tell an urban myth of some users simply removing the non-conductive pin on the HPL750 lamp. It almost seems as though some lamp manufacturer planned this, as the extra pin is so easily removable.


I've heard it has the same effect as ripping the tag off a mattress.
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Or you could buy new TP-22H lamp sockets and the ETC Source Four retrofit kits for the lamp caps. This will ensure you have proper wiring and parts in the fixture for the HPL750.

Of course you could also carefully drill out a hole in the lamp burner assembly to accommodate the extra pin so that you don't have to pull out the pins every time you change lamps
 
Can you do this with new Source4 Jrs?
 
Re: source 4 575 vs 750

Or you could buy new TP-22H lamp sockets and the ETC Source Four retrofit kits for the lamp caps. This will ensure you have proper wiring and parts in the fixture for the HPL750.

Of course you could also carefully drill out a hole in the lamp burner assembly to accommodate the extra pin so that you don't have to pull out the pins every time you change lamps

I seem to remember some of ours having screws there, just pull that out? It should be noted (and probably will be tomorrow) that this probably voids A your warentee and B the UL rating, making your fixture potentially illegal.
 

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