1977 Strand Century Lighting System

frickej123

New Member
I have a serious of questions about my system. I will post the pictures of the system. I have already spoken with fire Marshall and this system is grandfathered in. for years, nobody could find parts like breakers and dimmers for the system I am working on. I have found parts. I need to find the schematics for the switch board.
The problem I am having is that I don't understand why there are two dimmers at the bottom for each scene.

Also, on top. The switches on the board do not control the same lights I am not sure how to get it all to work.

I have found some parts on Ebay, but if anyone can help me find a contact to get more parts.
 

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Two most excellent resources for you:

These were mentioned in the other thread, but I'll post them here as well.

Century Lighting Service, Inc.
18-02 River Road
Fair Lawn, NJ 07410-1201
(201) 791-7001 FAX (201) 791-3167
Contact: Sal Maratta & Joel Epstein
E-Mail:
[email protected]
Specializing in old and obsolete dimming equipment to current equipment. Field service coverage of the Eastern United States.

Lite-Trol Service
Steve Short
1-800-LITE-TROL
Hicksville, NY
Lite-Trol Service
 
Welcome to 'the Booth'.

If you're not sure how it is supposed to work, how can you tell what parts you need? Also, your lack of familiarity with this makes me question the wisdom, i.e. SAFETY of any work you might attempt on it. I define safety as in possibly electrocuting yourself or burning down the building. Harsh? Maybe, but the consequences of failure can be catastrophic. Are you a student, instructor, building engineer, parent?

That all said: you have 10 actual dimmers (note the number of things in this that show up in quantity "10"). You have 20 "handles" on the control board and a pair wired as "cross-faders" that indicate the controller is a "two scene pre-set" design. The controller acts as a remote control for the actual dimmer modules by using DC voltage from 0-10 V (or maybe 12 volts but those systems aren't as common). The patch bay has 10 outlets at the top (see a trend here?) and the plugs are connected to "loads" like lights or outlets on the walls, in floor pockets, or wired to battens so that lights can be plugged into those outlets. The patch bay lets you determine which loads are connected to a particular dimmer module.

That should be enough to Google and for you get your head wrapped around how this system was designed to work.
 
Welcome to 'the Booth'.

If you're not sure how it is supposed to work, how can you tell what parts you need? Also, your lack of familiarity with this makes me question the wisdom, i.e. SAFETY of any work you might attempt on it. I define safety as in possibly electrocuting yourself or burning down the building. Harsh? Maybe, but the consequences of failure can be catastrophic. Are you a student, instructor, building engineer, parent?

That all said: you have 10 actual dimmers (note the number of things in this that show up in quantity "10"). You have 20 "handles" on the control board and a pair wired as "cross-faders" that indicate the controller is a "two scene pre-set" design. The controller acts as a remote control for the actual dimmer modules by using DC voltage from 0-10 V (or maybe 12 volts but those systems aren't as common). The patch bay has 10 outlets at the top (see a trend here?) and the plugs are connected to "loads" like lights or outlets on the walls, in floor pockets, or wired to battens so that lights can be plugged into those outlets. The patch bay lets you determine which loads are connected to a particular dimmer module.

That should be enough to Google and for you get your head wrapped around how this system was designed to work.
Hey Tim,
I could not agree with you more. I have shut off all power as a protocol at the main before working on this system and with the supervision of an electrician. However, We have done research with this system to find answers, parts it needs ect. The next step is to find an expert with this system and that is why I am posting on here. Thoughts?
 
Hey Tim,
I could not agree with you more. I have shut off all power as a protocol at the main before working on this system and with the supervision of an electrician. However, We have done research with this system to find answers, parts it needs ect. The next step is to find an expert with this system and that is why I am posting on here. Thoughts?
You need a "gray pony tail" person to stop in and suss out your remaining questions. The basic concept of how this was meant to work should be fairly obvious to Ye Olde Folke. People who've never used analog-controlled dimmers simply won't understand "there is no app for that."

If you have an electrician and working internet I think you can figure out most of this system. The primary issues you're likely to encounter are modifications over the years (mostly to things that electrically speaking, are after the dimmers, controls, or patch bay); rodent damage to wiring; dimmers with components that have failed. Corrosion at splices, terminations, and outlets will be a thing, too.

The dimming side of this installation in only half of it. The rest is the distribution around the stage house, which is what the 'cord and plug' stuff on the patch bay are connected to. I'd wager you'll find plenty of issues in the distribution side, and that your electrician will feel at home with that part of the inspection.

What's the ultimate use for the space this system is in? What's the goal for This Old System, and if restoration is it, why? How much money are the owners willing to spend - all at once - to meet their goals?

edit ps: Realized that most of that is redundant with work you've already started or pursued, so the question is mostly, what other questions do you have? If it's sourcing components or more troubleshooting info for old dimmers, we're here for you. My earlier post about 10 dimmers, 10 jacks on the patch bay, and that 'cords and plugs' are how one would patch "floor pocket 17" to dimmer 10, should be enough to draw a cocktail napkin of the distribution side. Your electrician probably has a line-identifying tone system, and failing that, an extension cord and ohm meter to determine electrical continuity from the patch bay to sockets/outlets on/around the stage.
 
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And from looking at the patch bay.... 10 dimmers with 5 jacks each. You have 33 load circuits with labels and another 10 that were either never provisioned or represent outlets that didn't have a dedicated luminary hooked up. You should have 33-43 cords/plugs. The circuit breakers for each of the cords/plugs is to prevent overloading the load side (multiple twofers) wiring. The circuit breakers in the dimmer rack are for each dimmer, with 2 circuits of non-dim power, the main 3 phase breaker, and what looks like a utility 20 amp circuit. The "bag job" of 4 residential dimmers on the side of the rack is likely wired into one or more of those circuits.

Hope this helps.
 
And from looking at the patch bay.... 10 dimmers with 5 jacks each. You have 33 load circuits with labels and another 10 that were either never provisioned or represent outlets that didn't have a dedicated luminary hooked up. You should have 33-43 cords/plugs. The circuit breakers for each of the cords/plugs is to prevent overloading the load side (multiple twofers) wiring. The circuit breakers in the dimmer rack are for each dimmer, with 2 circuits of non-dim power, the main 3 phase breaker, and what looks like a utility 20 amp circuit. The "bag job" of 4 residential dimmers on the side of the rack is likely wired into one or more of those circuits.

Hope this helps.
The goal is to get the lights back up and running. The dimmers are good. There are simply some wires crossed somewhere. They only want to spend the minimal amount to fix it.
 
When I was in college there was a studio theatre that had a Strand system with a similar design and size. The lighting system for the main theatre wasn't much different, just bigger. It's hard to tell from the posts what works and what doesn't. There are 10 dimmers controlled from either the top bank of faders with white handles or the mid bank with black handles. On the bottom there are two white handle masters, two black handle masters, and a crossfader. The switches above each fader select which master controls it along with an independent setting, I believe. The crossfader will select which scene is active or both with the highest level used for each dimmer. I am not sure if there are really wires crossed somewhere or a misunderstanding of how the system works.
 

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