Altman 360 Refurb; parts source
- Thread starterJames0620
- Start date
Socket. The base is part of the lamp.
From other fixtures.
Barring that, a machine shop should be able to replicate fairly reasonably. Although most would question the wisdom of expending any time/effort/money on a 360. The 360Q is another matter.
While you're at it, see https://www.controlbooth.com/threads/lighting-fixture-maintenance.12561/ .
The 360Q plate is drilled from the factory to mount both the G-9.5 and the P-28s lamp socket for use on both fixtures.
I recommend making or having made for you out of 14ga steel a replacement plate. Less chance it will bend and break the lamp socket during focus.
Use your old triangle base plate as a template to mark your holes and the outline shape. Draw straight line o.c. thru the center of the marked holes for your lamp socket mounting holes across the plate. Place your replacement lamp socket on this line to verify that either your lamp socket mounting holes are in the same place, or with the newer and often wider o.d. the mounting holes might have changed. Align and mark the new holes on that line. Also trace the o.d. of the replacement lamp socket - especially where it has recesses. In one of those recesses you will have enough un-obstructed area on your triangle to drill and tap for a ground.
Drill and tap the plate = 8-32 tap for the bench focus screws, 1/8" dia for if the base mounting screws are 4-40 size. 10-32 for the ground tap. Ream or file flush the holes so there is no burrs.
Install the plate into a bench vise with the outer edge of the triangle aligned flush with the top of the jaws (plate area inside the vise.) Hack saw or Sawzall your cuts with the saw blade riding on the top edge of the bench vise jaws. 18tpi blade for hack saw, 14tpi blade for the sawzall and use a little bit of cutting oil on the blade.
Alternate method would be to clamp the plate of 14 gauge steel to a work table with your cut edge hanging off the edge. A jig saw with metal cutting blade of 14tpi to 18tpi and a bit of cutting oil should get it done. Final cut will be tricky given the base of the tool. Use cutting oil also.
Note on marking for what to cut... if using a power tool and cutting oil, Sharpee or pencil might wash away, try a extra fine tip paint marker, grease pencil or high temperature spray paint instead to mark the outer edges of the triangle.
To make the rounded or squared off edges of the triangle, cut or grind or belt sand to match.
File, wire wheel and or sand and file etc. all exposed edges. All outer edges must be rounded over so they don't cut conductors. Clean the base plate with oil/grease remover or at least soap to remove any cutting oil residue. Paint the base plate with high temperature flat black so it doesn't rust.
Make sure to use the insulator which comes with the replacement lamp socket - you do not want to short to the base plate - fabricated or bought. Also on other lamp sockets not replaced, you still have to use an insulator pad.
More details if wanted about shock mounting the lamp socket, how I do grounds or wire the socket etc. Lots of details learned over the years of literally hundreds of 360 type fixtures serviced. You get the bench focus dialed in right... it's a very useful fixture still. One of these days I'll get to inventing the P-28s lamp socket extender which will allow such fixtures to use a BTH lamp. Got everything I need to do it ready to go.... too busy on work projects. Been at least a year since I restored my last antique even, and I have some really ancient ones in line for me to work on.
I recommend making or having made for you out of 14ga steel a replacement plate. Less chance it will bend and break the lamp socket during focus.
Use your old triangle base plate as a template to mark your holes and the outline shape. Draw straight line o.c. thru the center of the marked holes for your lamp socket mounting holes across the plate. Place your replacement lamp socket on this line to verify that either your lamp socket mounting holes are in the same place, or with the newer and often wider o.d. the mounting holes might have changed. Align and mark the new holes on that line. Also trace the o.d. of the replacement lamp socket - especially where it has recesses. In one of those recesses you will have enough un-obstructed area on your triangle to drill and tap for a ground.
Drill and tap the plate = 8-32 tap for the bench focus screws, 1/8" dia for if the base mounting screws are 4-40 size. 10-32 for the ground tap. Ream or file flush the holes so there is no burrs.
Install the plate into a bench vise with the outer edge of the triangle aligned flush with the top of the jaws (plate area inside the vise.) Hack saw or Sawzall your cuts with the saw blade riding on the top edge of the bench vise jaws. 18tpi blade for hack saw, 14tpi blade for the sawzall and use a little bit of cutting oil on the blade.
Alternate method would be to clamp the plate of 14 gauge steel to a work table with your cut edge hanging off the edge. A jig saw with metal cutting blade of 14tpi to 18tpi and a bit of cutting oil should get it done. Final cut will be tricky given the base of the tool. Use cutting oil also.
Note on marking for what to cut... if using a power tool and cutting oil, Sharpee or pencil might wash away, try a extra fine tip paint marker, grease pencil or high temperature spray paint instead to mark the outer edges of the triangle.
To make the rounded or squared off edges of the triangle, cut or grind or belt sand to match.
File, wire wheel and or sand and file etc. all exposed edges. All outer edges must be rounded over so they don't cut conductors. Clean the base plate with oil/grease remover or at least soap to remove any cutting oil residue. Paint the base plate with high temperature flat black so it doesn't rust.
Make sure to use the insulator which comes with the replacement lamp socket - you do not want to short to the base plate - fabricated or bought. Also on other lamp sockets not replaced, you still have to use an insulator pad.
More details if wanted about shock mounting the lamp socket, how I do grounds or wire the socket etc. Lots of details learned over the years of literally hundreds of 360 type fixtures serviced. You get the bench focus dialed in right... it's a very useful fixture still. One of these days I'll get to inventing the P-28s lamp socket extender which will allow such fixtures to use a BTH lamp. Got everything I need to do it ready to go.... too busy on work projects. Been at least a year since I restored my last antique even, and I have some really ancient ones in line for me to work on.
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