Control/Dimming Dimming fluorescents, ballast question

jrgn

New Member
Hi all, first post here and I hope you can help me out with a little fluorescent dimming problem I have.

I need to find a way to dim single 5 foot T8 tubes, either F40T8 (40w) or F58T8 (58w), with an ETC Sensor. The problem is that the only dimming ballasts I have found are for F32T8 (32w) tubes or lower.

So my question is: Will using a 32w dimming ballast on a 40w or 58w tube create any problems other than lower brightness?
 
Lutron makes the widest range of dimming ballasts. http://www.lutron.com/en-US/service...l/design-selectiontools/ballastselection.aspx
There are 3 wire ballasts for that lamp. D20 modules can run 3/4 wire systems but it involves rewiring the outputs for both sides of the module.

You might also look at 5' T5 lamps either HO or normal depending on brightness. Phillips Advance Mark 10 has 2 wire ballasts for those lamps. http://images.philips.com/is/conten...0_Powerline_Product_Bulletin_For_T5_Lamps.pdf
 
Hi all, first post here and I hope you can help me out with a little fluorescent dimming problem I have.

I need to find a way to dim single 5 foot T8 tubes, either F40T8 (40w) or F58T8 (58w), with an ETC Sensor. The problem is that the only dimming ballasts I have found are for F32T8 (32w) tubes or lower.

So my question is: Will using a 32w dimming ballast on a 40w or 58w tube create any problems other than lower brightness?
I'll begin with several questions:
When you say a single 5' tube, 5' would be 60" neither 40" nor 58".
Is this a normal, indoor, tube as opposed to something fancy intended for exterior use where it may need to start in sub zero temperatures?
Is this something you're cobbling together for a show, basically a short run application or is this something being installed for a long term application?
There used to be dimming ballasts with a dimming lead which, when energized, saturated the core effectively removing it and reducing the ballast to a coil of wire acting as a simple series resistance. Nowadays, I believe most ballasts are electronic.
Without knowing your answers to my above queries, here's my instant thought:
If this is for a very short period of time, let's say two or three performances and maybe 15 minutes per performance, here's what I'd try. I'd take your fluorescent tube, along with whatever ballast it's normally happy operating on at normal line voltage, connect a purely resistive "dummy load", maybe a 500 Watt fresnel, in parallel with it, wire it to the output of your normal stage dimmer and observe the results. Check for any / all adverse effects such as abnormal noise, vibration and / or overheating. If it works, it works. If not, it's cost you little more than your time to try. If it works, it may work just as well with a lower wattage dummy load. I had a show where dimmers in a 48 slot Strand CD80 rack were successfully dimming neon, flicker-flame, candle lamps with only a single 120S6 6 Watt lamp as the dummy load per dimmer. Of course you'll need to locate your dummy loads somewhere out of sight AND be sure to check them as part of your nightly lamp checks. Two dummy loads are ALWAYS better than one as you know, if you only use one, it'll burn out leaving you loadless at the worst possible time. Edsel Murphy and his laws fully apply to the use of dummy loads when they're being used to do the otherwise impossible for budget theatrical purposes.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
Try loading up the dimmer with a large incandescent load along with the fluorescent tubes. Will likely not give a full dimming range, but may help.
Please define how large an incandescent load you're suggesting as you're apparently looking for something larger than the 500 Watts already suggested in post 3.
Toodleoo!
Ron Hebbard.
 
Hey Ron, sorry I got home after a long day and skipped that part of your message. Bleh. I would suggest that 500 watts is a good place to start, then work your way up to closer to the max safe load on the dimmer. Been a long time since I did this, but I remember that as you approached the rated load of a dimmer, the fluorescent load dimmed better. However, I remember the fluorescent load will never did dim completely or smoothly.
 
Most dimming ballasts (at least the old magnetic ones) have a winding that keeps the lamp's filaments hot. Makes for a much smoother dim, down to the point where the lamp will not maintain an arc. (Somewhere around 10% of full intensity.)
 
Most dimming ballasts (at least the old magnetic ones) have a winding that keeps the lamp's filaments hot. Makes for a much smoother dim, down to the point where the lamp will not maintain an arc. (Somewhere around 10% of full intensity.)
That is the type I have seen as well. There are two hots that feed the ballast, one remains on full at all times the lamps are in use. This keeps the filaments warm. The second hot is fed from the dimmer and usually has a range of 10% to 100%. Considering the cost of these ballasts, a full retrofit with dimmabale LEDs might be the best option.
Also, dimmabale ballasts work best with new tubes, but as the tubes age, they tend to drop out before getting down to 20%, often at different times.
 
Also, dimmabale ballasts work best with new tubes, but as the tubes age, they tend to drop out before getting down to 20%, often at different times.

With the caveat that new tubes need to be run in for a while at full before being dimmed. 100 hours is the normal number tossed around...
 
I forgot to say welcome to CB! I hope we haven't overwhelmed you right off the bat.

Obviously the more you can tell us about the task at hand the more help we can give. This is good general info.
https://www.etcconnect.com/Support/Articles/Fluorescent-Dimming-How-Fluorescent-Fixtures-Work.aspx
https://www.etcconnect.com/Support/Articles/Fluorescent-Dimming-How-Fluorescent-Fixtures-Work.aspx
PS the 100 hour burn in time is obsolete, but still shows up out of extreme caution. 12-24 is fine for T8s with low mercury content.
 

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