Focusing on an electric

hhslights

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So, today I found myself focusing some S4s on our first electric. I always find the task to be much harder than it needs to be with the constant swaying of the electric when making even the slightest adjustment to the light. Luckily this was just something for a band concert and needed no real set area so I was just able to guesstamate where the light would end up falling. But I am wondering, to save myself a whole lotta time, energy and headache for the upcoming musical, are there any techniques used to prevent the swaying of the electrics when focusing lights on them from a height?
 
Hold it as steady as possible. Focus the light. Stop it from swinging to check focus.

Mike
 
So, today I found myself focusing some S4s on our first electric. I always find the task to be much harder than it needs to be with the constant swaying of the electric when making even the slightest adjustment to the light. Luckily this was just something for a band concert and needed no real set area so I was just able to guesstamate where the light would end up falling. But I am wondering, to save myself a whole lotta time, energy and headache for the upcoming musical, are there any techniques used to prevent the swaying of the electrics when focusing lights on them from a height?

It helps a bit if the electricians prep the units while on the deck, so that the pan nut (f _ _ k me nut) and/or yoke bolt (or whatever we call the 1/2" bolt that holds the yoke on the c-clamp) isn't super tight. This way you're not wrestling with the fixture trying to get bolts loose. Maybe also have the deck apes prep for general focus so you're not having to move stuff a lot.

Steve B.
 
Get them as close to prepped as you can before you begin focus, including a rough focus from the ground. Once you're up, you're moving the light as little as possible. That includes things like gels and barrels, and making sure adjustment points aren't too tight.
 
Derek stole my answer.
 
Actually, the LightLock answer may be a great solution. One of these attached to the electric should be able to steady the entire pipe during focus. You could then remove it and move it to the next and so on. Of course, removing the LightLock might change the hang, so you may want to leave it there, but the device should steady the entire electric.

Interesting idea.

Tim.

P.S. yes, I realize it was a joke, but it could be an interesting alternative use of the device.
 
Now lightlock sounds interesting. Anyone know how it works or even how much it costs?

The guy in the video said $2500 MSRP. They work the same way dampers work on the top of tall buildings. Sensors detect motion and move a counterweight to counteract the motion. If memory serves these were developed for the Royal Shakespeare Company to solve a problem with suspended truss.

Have you tried Google? I did and it returned this as the first link:
RSC Lightlock

... and this demo narrated by Patrick Stewart:
RSC Lightlock - Patrick Stewart presents Lightlock
 
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Ahh I see we are going for the cost effective solution available to every high school then?:p
 
Sounds like it may be time for a trip to the audiologist for a hearing check... ;)

But if it's on the internet it must be true! :evil:

Seriously though, the real question is, are they foiled by an earthquake?
 
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The other important thing for minimizing the movement of the batten is to get as close to the fixture as you physically can, providing that you don't have to focus through yourself. Then make sure that you actually loosen the adjustments before you more the light. If you leave the pan and tilt tight(ish) then you are going to fight friction to move the fixture and you will move the batten. The more gentle you can be, the less the batten will swing.
 
One other small refinement on focusing - when you have to aim a fixture, try to move it in an arc around the pivot point - not just move the end. IE if you need to adjust the pan of the fixture to the right, don't just push on the barrel to the right. Use two hands - one on the front, one on the back, and move them together around the pivot point of the c-clamp.
 
About the light lock thing, assuming its just a tuned mass damper, you can probably build a less sophisticated system yourself... the ones used in buildings are really just large concrete blocks mounted on springs, basically with enough inertia so that they are always moving a bit behind the movement of the larger structure...
 

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