How do Chain Hoists work?

[avkid]

The one day course does not result in a certification, just a certificate of attendance.
My main reasoning behind taking the course was gaining a more advanced knowledge of how the hoists work and what to look for that could create a dangerous condition.

I will definitely be taking one of the more advanced classes in the future. (especially when it isn't on my dime)

 

[corweezy87]

Has anyone taken the online maintenance course? Is it any better or worse then the classroom course?
Also, what tools are needed?
Thanks.

 

[LavaASU]

Has anyone taken the online maintenance course? Is it any better or worse then the classroom course?
Also, what tools are needed?
Thanks.

I'm pretty sure you don't need any tools unless you have your own hoist and are going to follow along or something. I would definately say go classroom if you can, because you actually work on a hoist there versus watching videos...

 

[DuckJordan]

corweezy87, I don't know about your level of knowledge but if the start of the thread means anything, I'd like to dissuade you from learning to take apart and assemble a chain hoist on your own. At least any of the ones that will be used to lift anything again.

 

[What Rigger?]

Personal experience? Or just witnessed/heard about?

C'mon, LAVA....you know how I attend motor classes once a year. I've heard the stories from Herb Hart and his colleagues about what happens when you let that spring out. Long story short- it comes out quite kinetically and does NOT go back in. Ever.

I may be crazy, but I ain't stoopid.

 

[LavaASU]

C'mon, LAVA....you know how I attend motor classes once a year. I've heard the stories from Herb Hart and his colleagues about what happens when you let that spring out. Long story short- it comes out quite kinetically and does NOT go back in. Ever.

I may be crazy, but I ain't stoopid.

WhatRigger, you realize that post was from a year and a half ago, right .

 

[Jay Ashworth]

Prob'ly not.

Sent from my SPH-L720

 

[Amiers]

So, as to not create a new thread I'll piggy back on this one. We recently got a new motor and it obviously came with a new pickle.

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring/section-c-datasheet.asp?FAM=Switches&PN=CPB21

Controlling This

http://www.cmworks.com/Public/7672/prostar_man.pdf


So like it was mentioned the pickle is really a glorified 3 pos mo switch. Which is what I originally have. So I ported the new cable over to the old switch. It works fine but the motor is noticeably slower.

In the long run will this pose a problem?
If I wanted to speed up the fpm but stick with the 3 pos mo switch what would I do?

 

[Footer]

How long is the cable run to the hoist? What kind of hoist did you buy (power, weight, etc)?

 

[Amiers]

How long is the cable run to the hoist? What kind of hoist did you buy (power, weight, etc)?

~ 150ft 16 awg 4 wire for the control cable.

Power is 120v ~ 15ft away.

Hoist is the 500lb model in the link I posted.

http://www.cmworks.com/Public/7672/prostar_man.pdf

 

[Footer]

I'm willing to bet your unit does not have a contactor, therefore power is making the round trip to the pickle and back. What color is the pickle that came with the hoist?

 

[Amiers]

Black.

 

[Footer]

Black.

Are you positive you have pinned it up correctly?

Any time a motor is running slow it is almost always a voltage drop problem or a frequency problem (highly unlikely). With the motor running meter your voltage at the motor. Also, verify that you are pinned up correctly. I don't know why you would need the 4 wire control cable, all of those motors are pinned for a 3 wire system. Is that 4th wire connected to something? What kind of motor are you replacing?

 

[Amiers]

Are you positive you have pinned it up correctly?

Any time a motor is running slow it is almost always a voltage drop problem or a frequency problem (highly unlikely). With the motor running meter your voltage at the motor. Also, verify that you are pinned up correctly. I don't know why you would need the 4 wire control cable, all of those motors are pinned for a 3 wire system. Is that 4th wire connected to something? What kind of motor are you replacing?

The cabling is all brand new. I also don't know why it came with 4 wire. When I opened the pickle to check the pin out for up and down the 4th wire wasn't connected to anything.

As far as replacing it was a 1/8th CM hoist. But we scrapped all the cabling.

I guess I will have to check it out on the motor side when I get to work tomorrow. Like I said I'm not worried about the speed, more or less curious as to why the 3 pos switch runs slower then the pickle.

 

[egilson1]

The 4th wire is the strain relief. It's actually a small wire rope.

 

[Amiers]

The 4th wire is the strain relief. It's actually a small wire rope.

??? The 4th wire was just another braided copper wire.

 

[Amiers]

This is the pickle setup that I have. Which I mirrored on the 3 pos switch I have currently installed.

 

[porkchop]

The 4th wire is the strain relief. It's actually a small wire rope.

Recently they started sending them out with an actual green "ground wire." Some control cables even have a 5th SWR strain relief conductor. My best guess is that it's mean to short the hot leg of a damaged cable back to the motor to trip the over-current protection. I've seen it both landed and not landed in the pickle. Either way it's not doing much of anything inside the plastic chassis. Some people just feel better know it's landed and not rattling around inside the pickle I guess.

Pickle control voltage for CM's is usually 24 VAC if that helps. I agree with Footer if it runs at different speeds with different pickles I would suspect a wiring issue.

 

[Amiers]

I guess I will take a multi meter to it tomorrow and see if I'm not getting the full voltage.

 

[Amiers]

I'm getting 120 AC on both sides with about a 2 volt drop when engaged. Am I metering it wrong?