Microphones How to fix Countrymen Mics
- Thread starterBrenden Friedel
- Start date
Aaron Becker
Well-Known Member
Based on the actor reference, I assume these are wireless lav/lapel mics...
Ensure the problem is with the microphone and not the bodypack (if you have 10 bad mics, it would seem it's the mics, but always be sure). Do you have a microphone that doesn't pop? Use THAT bodypack with ALL the other microphones as a test. Start one by one with the "bad" mics and move different parts of the assembly (the capsule itself, run your hands down the whole cable while gently "massaging" the cable) and listen for the pops. Finally, hold the connector firmly into the bodypack and wiggle the cable where it enters the connector. If that causes the popping (most likely guess, based on experience), you have loose/bad connections in the connector. If wiggling the connector itself, but not the cable, causes the popping, it's possible the problem is in the connector-bodypack connection.
Most likely, I suspect your problem will be in the connection of the cable to the actual connector. What type of connector are the mics wired to (you can let us know what brand bodypacks/wireless you're using, that will let us know the connector type, too). Are you handy with a soldering iron? You'll have to open up the connectors and re-solder the connections if that is the problem.
If the problem is in the cable or capsule itself, my honest advice is to throw them away and buy new ones (unless the problem is in the first 8 inches or so, you could simply chop that end up and resolder). Once the cable itself has started to fail, it's nearly impossible to fix in the field, and sending it in (assuming these are B3 or similar) really isn't worth the money when the cable is already stressed out as is. If the capsule appears to be the culprit, you might be able to send it in and get it repaired, directly to Countryman.
Hope that helps,
Ensure the problem is with the microphone and not the bodypack (if you have 10 bad mics, it would seem it's the mics, but always be sure). Do you have a microphone that doesn't pop? Use THAT bodypack with ALL the other microphones as a test. Start one by one with the "bad" mics and move different parts of the assembly (the capsule itself, run your hands down the whole cable while gently "massaging" the cable) and listen for the pops. Finally, hold the connector firmly into the bodypack and wiggle the cable where it enters the connector. If that causes the popping (most likely guess, based on experience), you have loose/bad connections in the connector. If wiggling the connector itself, but not the cable, causes the popping, it's possible the problem is in the connector-bodypack connection.
Most likely, I suspect your problem will be in the connection of the cable to the actual connector. What type of connector are the mics wired to (you can let us know what brand bodypacks/wireless you're using, that will let us know the connector type, too). Are you handy with a soldering iron? You'll have to open up the connectors and re-solder the connections if that is the problem.
If the problem is in the cable or capsule itself, my honest advice is to throw them away and buy new ones (unless the problem is in the first 8 inches or so, you could simply chop that end up and resolder). Once the cable itself has started to fail, it's nearly impossible to fix in the field, and sending it in (assuming these are B3 or similar) really isn't worth the money when the cable is already stressed out as is. If the capsule appears to be the culprit, you might be able to send it in and get it repaired, directly to Countryman.
Hope that helps,
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
Yes I have used a body pack the doesn't crack/pop. The mics have just been put through 5 years of abuse accidents and pulling and am just looking for a way to fix them. They are DEF the mics. It is the connector part where the cabled is soldered or it is the connector into the pack. They are the Shure standard 4 pin mini I don't know the technical term. The wireless mics are shure SLX and ULXD-1. I have a soldering iron and some solder but am not good with it.
JD
Well-Known Member
In short, although not the classic "phantom power" microphones, they do use a bias voltage. The result is that when a conductor is broken or a pin is dirty, you don't just get static, you get a loud bang as there is a wild voltage swing when the conductor opens or closes contact. Carefully lay out the cable and try to find out where the broken conductor is. If it is at the mic element end, bad news! They are very hard to fix. If it is at the connector end it's a pretty easy fix. (solder on new connector.) Although not often, you may find the break somewhere along the cable length. This often happens if there is a tether point used by wardrobe (looped around belt, etc.) If this is the case, you may be able to shorten the length of the cable and put a new connector on.
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
Some of the mics don’t have cable issues but have like a distorted sound is that the mic itself or could it be something like a bad pack or bad eq cause it sounds like that on a couple but then I plug in a cheep Pyle mic and it sounds fine
JD
Well-Known Member
All these mics contain a small Field Effect Transistor right in the capsule of the microphone. It can get damaged by static among other things. When the FET goes, the result sounds heavly clipped, or is very low and distorted. Not much can be done if that happens.
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
It doesn't sound like low distortion. It sounds like when someone is overdriving the transmitter tomorrow i think I will try hardwiring it directly into the board and see what happens
JD is spot on about potential FET failure but more commonly this sound is a "sweat-out" from perspiration entering the mic capsule (when it drys it leave a residue on the diaphragm) or makeup/wardrobe fluff clogging the capsule wind screen. Strong light and magnifying glass will identify the latter.
Sweat outs usually happen mid-show and most amateur/student productions don't have a budget for spares or live backups... but that also means there is the tendency to let it go (why complain or give a note about it if there is no additional equipment) and just live with whatever degradaiton takes place over the run of show. That's too bad because many mics will survive a quick blast of canned air (across the screen, not down into it, and as soon as it can be done, not tomorrow or next week) and a few models will even survive an ultrasonic cleaning - but sweat outs mean a mic's days are numbered few. Rigging the mic so sweat can't follow down the cable into the element is tricky but important for longevity; some A2s will use Scotch-Gard fabric protector (or whatever it's called these days) to treat the cable/element junction and the windscreen by spraying a small amount of S-G into a small container and using a cotton swab to apply it.
Good luck and let us know how this all sorts out for you.
Tried to edit and insert the quote from your post about trying them hard-wired. Uh... make sure you use the appropriate Shure (TA3 or TA 4 connection) device to connect with; sending +48v to these will probably be Bad News.
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Brenden Friedel
Active Member
Yea I have the proper 3pin xlr to the TA connector. We use them for our hanging mics and to test packs with pink noise. Now with the canned air how do I go about doing that. We have an air compressor but not canned air atm. Some kid took it and blew it up
JD
Well-Known Member
overdriving = clipping, which is often what they sound like if the FET is bad.
Be aware, you can't simply plug the mic into the board as the mic requires a bias circuit to operate (NOT phantom power.) There is an adapter sold, but if you don't have one, here is a generic layout of what you need to test them:
It's too late for canned air. It must be used while the mics are wet, i.e. fresh off the actor. You blow the air *across* the top of the mic element, NOT down into the screen... A can of "canned air" from the local office supply or big-box store is about $5. I would hope you can find that amount in your budget and consider it a show-related consumable like gaffers tape or tie line.
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
We have it in the budget we had like 10 cans at the start of the school year now we don’t and we are out. We are just to lazy to order them
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
Not sure I understand itoverdriving = clipping, which is often what they sound like if the FET is bad.
Be aware, you can't simply plug the mic into the board as the mic requires a bias circuit to operate (NOT phantom power.) There is an adapter sold, but if you don't have one, here is a generic layout of what you need to test them:
I had some luck rinsing out B3's that had gone a little cloudy with Isopropyl (on no other mic would I dare this, nor on a new mic). The best bet for sweat-outs is not to have them happen in the first place. One trick I found helpful was to wrap a tiny strip of moleskin around the head just below the cap. Much of the sweat would soak in there instead of trickling into the mic. The other trick was my "Sancho" rig; a coat-hanger ear clip with an extra bend so that the mic is held slightly away from the skin, E6 style.
B3's have a half-life. Besides breaking cables or getting clogged they will over extended use just not sound as nice. At Theaterworks they'd toss the whole bunch after the run (I got a couple season's use off their used mics!) At some point you'll need to convince the PTB that you need to retire and replace on a regular basis.
On the other hand -- fixing a simple cable break at the connector is easy.
B3's have a half-life. Besides breaking cables or getting clogged they will over extended use just not sound as nice. At Theaterworks they'd toss the whole bunch after the run (I got a couple season's use off their used mics!) At some point you'll need to convince the PTB that you need to retire and replace on a regular basis.
On the other hand -- fixing a simple cable break at the connector is easy.
I send off mics for repair from my theatre every year. If countryman can not repair the element they will send you a new one. As of last year the charge for a new one was $150, solidly less then buying a new one from a retail source. If they can repair the element they will for a lesser charge. So for $1500 or less you will have new elements or factory repaired ones.
Brenden Friedel
Active Member
No lav mic is immune to broken cables and sweat. Thicker cables might last a bit longer in some cases. Even a big, clunky Audio Technica AT831b breaks cables.
As we've discussed before, there are two choices. Buy the expensive ones that last awhile but eventually fail, or buy cheap ones and replace frequently, before they fail.
As we've discussed before, there are two choices. Buy the expensive ones that last awhile but eventually fail, or buy cheap ones and replace frequently, before they fail.
