Automated Fixtures Intellabeam Troubleshooting

[Bubby4j]

I'm having an odd problem getting an Intellabeam 700HX working properly.

In DMX mode this happens, with the bulb in:

1. Turn it on
2. Fixture initializes/homes
3. Works perfectly for 20 seconds
4. Then the color wheel continuously spins. It still sorta responds to DMX, because it will do the color spin correctly, but when you set it to just a solid color, it simply slowly spins.
5. If you try to reinitialize it/home it, it won't respond to DMX anymore, and it won't home again, as if it's locked up.

The fixture doesn't have a gobo wheel or iris in it either. But it shouldn't make a difference. If I remove the bulb, the fixture works perfectly fine, you can reinitialize it as many times as you want and it won't lock up like it does with the bulb in it, and the color wheel behaves properly.

Which makes me think it's the logic board. Should I try swapping some of the chips in the DIP sockets with another logic board?

The bad part about it, is I can only test if it's fixed by having a bulb in it, so you get to waste the bulb's life turning it on and off again troubleshooting.

Anyone encountered this behaviour before?

 

[Wood4321]

I'm having an odd problem getting an Intellabeam 700HX working properly.

In DMX mode this happens, with the bulb in:

1. Turn it on
2. Fixture initializes/homes
3. Works perfectly for 20 seconds
4. Then the color wheel continuously spins. It still sorta responds to DMX, because it will do the color spin correctly, but when you set it to just a solid color, it simply slowly spins.
5. If you try to reinitialize it/home it, it won't respond to DMX anymore, and it won't home again, as if it's locked up.

The fixture doesn't have a gobo wheel or iris in it either. But it shouldn't make a difference. If I remove the bulb, the fixture works perfectly fine, you can reinitialize it as many times as you want and it won't lock up like it does with the bulb in it, and the color wheel behaves properly.

Which makes me think it's the logic board. Should I try swapping some of the chips in the DIP sockets with another logic board?

The bad part about it, is I can only test if it's fixed by having a bulb in it, so you get to waste the bulb's life turning it on and off again troubleshooting.

Anyone encountered this behaviour before?

I would call Lightparts in Austin Texas. They should be able to get you going, Don Pugh is the man when it comes to Ibeams.
Good Luck!

 

[Bubby4j]

I would call Lightparts in Austin Texas. They should be able to get you going, Don Pugh is the man when it comes to Ibeams.
Good Luck!

I hate to bug them when I most likely won't be buying anything from them - if it's a new logic board I'd need ($$$$$), I won't be fixing the fixture.

 

[Don Pugh]

Buddy, don't care if you buy anything or not, give me a call (512-873-7106) or an email and we can figure your problem out. Need to know what version of software is in the IB ( hope it is 4.11) , how your personality and address dips are set, and what DMX source running which IB700 profile... I can sell you a logic board real cheap... if needed... But I think this can be resolved with software upgrade..

Don Pugh
LightParts.com - The Parts and Repair Source for Entertainment Lighting

 

[Wood4321]

Buddy, don't care if you buy anything or not, give me a call (512-873-7106) or an email and we can figure your problem out. Need to know what version of software is in the IB ( hope it is 4.11) , how your personality and address dips are set, and what DMX source running which IB700 profile... I can sell you a logic board real cheap... if needed... But I think this can be resolved with software upgrade..

Don Pugh
www.lightparts dot com

Wow Don,
That wierd, when I say Mokry's name he never magically appears!
Thanks for registering to post!

 

[derekleffew]

...That wierd, when I say Mokry's name he never magically appears! ...

You need to say it three times, while clicking your heels together.

@LightParts, click, @LightParts, click, @LightParts, click.

 

[Bubby4j]

For anyone interested in the solution, the lack of a heat filter causes the color & gobo sensors to think that the IR coming from the lamp means that the wheels are incorrectly positioned.

So, just put a heat filter in and you're good.

 

[Les]

For anyone interested in the solution, the lack of a heat filter causes the color & gobo sensors to think that the IR coming from the lamp means that the wheels are incorrectly positioned.

So, just put a heat filter in and you're good.

Who woulda thought!

 

[Jay Ashworth]

You need to say it three times, while clicking your heels together.

@LightParts, click, @LightParts, click, @LightParts, click.

For the record, it appears that, currently, if you do that, the tagged user gets an alert, but *it doesn't tell them where the tag was posted* -- there's no link to the thread. So if they weren't in the thread, all they know is that they were being talked about... *somewhere*. It's sort of eerie.

Dave and I were looking into it last weekend, but it sorta fell over, so I dunno why yet.

 

[arexlame]

I've got a quick question regarding intellabeams, I've just bought two at an auction (Parts Prices). They're both missing globes, however I'm wondering if it's possible to still start the fixture without a globe and test the rest of the features (Movement and responding to DMX)?

 

[Bubby4j]

I've got a quick question regarding intellabeams, I've just bought two at an auction (Parts Prices). They're both missing globes, however I'm wondering if it's possible to still start the fixture without a globe and test the rest of the features (Movement and responding to DMX)?

Yes, they'll start fine without a bulb. If there's not a bulb, I'd be safe to bypass the safety interlock so you can see all the wheels working and such. Just use the door & gravity to hold the button down with the door wedged under the side.

Another thing you can do is wedge an LED flashlight in there, then you'll be able to actually have light come from the fixture. It won't be very bright, but if you're in a really dark room you'll be able to see it.

 

[arexlame]

Thank you. Very happy that both of mine start and work! I do have to get bulbs, but before I do the glass in front of the reflector is cracked down the centre on both units. Is this just standard 3mm heat-proof glass, that I may be able to source locally? And if so, what's the name of the substance that holds it in place?

 

[Bubby4j]

Thank you. Very happy that both of mine start and work! I do have to get bulbs, but before I do the glass in front of the reflector is cracked down the centre on both units. Is this just standard 3mm heat-proof glass, that I may be able to source locally? And if so, what's the name of the substance that holds it in place?

The glass is supposed to be in 2 pieces, being a clean cut. If it really is broken, I've read that you can use loctite to fasten them from this thread. The glass is IR blocking glass.

I've looked to find the glass myself and had a hard time, if you do happen to find some, let me know. I have not measured thickness, but each panel is 1.5" x 3", for a total of 3" x 3".

Otherwise you can find it at lightparts. If you ask you might get it cheaper than the price listed on the site.

 

[arexlame]

That makes sense why both of them are broken now. There's that problem solved, now just to hit up the local theatre supplies shop for a couple of globes. Thanks for all your help Bubby4j.

 

[Bubby4j]

That makes sense why both of them are broken now. There's that problem solved, now just to hit up the local theatre supplies shop for a couple of globes. Thanks for all your help Bubby4j.

You can find the bulb online for $140 for the actual brand it calls for, and on ebay you can find a GE bulb for $90 I believe.

 

[Les]

Not that I recommend it, but according to the video below, you can actually hack in a standard quartz lamp in there (or even an LED source - one day - if you're crafty).

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[Bubby4j]

Not that I recommend it, but according to the video below, you can actually hack in a standard quartz lamp in there (or even an LED source - one day - if you're crafty).

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The problem is you lose brightness to keep the same amount of heat output, probably quite a bit.

LED makes more sense, but really you'd ideally need to integrate the LED into the logic board, and that'd be a lot of electronics design. Plus LEDs that are bright enough (you'd need a couple of them) from what I've seen, would be $400+ total.

 

[arexlame]

You can find the bulb online for $140 for the actual brand it calls for, and on ebay you can find a GE bulb for $90 I believe.

From the manual the 700HX takes the MSR 700/2, I couldn't see a manufacturer. What's the deal with globe manufacturers, are some better than the rest? I've just always used Phillips globes because that's what I've been given at the theatre I work at.

 

[Don Pugh]

From the manual the 700HX takes the MSR 700/2, I couldn't see a manufacturer. What's the deal with globe manufacturers, are some better than the rest? I've just always used Phillips globes because that's what I've been given at the theatre I work at.

The Intellabeam can use any of the Philips MSR700/2 "clones" from other manufacturers, or the "plain" MSR700. Difference is color temp, the /2 is about 7K, the "plain" is 5600K with superior CRI. The GE CSR700 works fine in an IB700. As Bubby mentioned, the IR filter was originally 2 pieces with a slight gap between them. Even if they crack, they are still good if the coating is intact. You can remove the filter and eyeball it at an angle to verify the coating.