Keystoning with gobos

Don't use a full moon template... On a partial moon, the keystone effect will be less noticeable as you aren't looking at a perfect circle.
 
If you have the money for a custom gobo, Apollo will design it with the keystone angle taken into account! Easy!
 
What kind of drop?

We use the Apollo glass gobo in a S4 with a 90-degree lens in it. Stick it up on a tree from behind the drop, and you only need a few feet. Ours is usually on the cyc, so it rear-projects OK.
You'll probably want to find a lower-wattage lamp than normal too, unless you plan to use amber shift rather than gel.
 
when you project any shape onto an angled surface it will distort. so if you have a light on an overhead electric shooting at a downward angle towards the cyc, it can change the image. For example if you shuttered a source four so that when pointing at the ground it was a perfect square, when you shoot it at the cyc at an angle the sides will look like this / \ instead of | |
Most overhead projectors have a button with that symbol on it to adjust the keystone.

See Also http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keystone_effect
 
An actual keystone is the stone in the middle of a structure like an arch that keys the other stones in place. It is trapezoid in shape. When you project from an angle, in this case higher than the intended viewing area, the image will appear larger at the top than at the bottom because that is how the light is striking.

The effect is common in video projectors, where it is not possible to hit dead straight at the screen. Modern projectors have a keystone adjustment, to make the image look like a rectangle instead of a trapezoid when viewed.

Science project: use a flashlight to point directly at the wall - you see a circle. Move it at an angle - oval. OP does not want an egg shaped moon.
 
When you project from an angle, in this case higher than the intended viewing area, the image will appear larger at the top than at the bottom...

Slight correction: When the uncorrected light source is placed higher than the viewing area, the image will be smaller at the the top due to the shorter throw.

And because I like visuals:

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Hey guys? Design-noob question: What is this "keystone" effect you speak of? Please and thank you. :)
 
Others have already offered good solutions. A custom gobo can give you very precise results in terms of roundness and diameter from whatever angle and distance you want. Or, the easy solution (and cheap if the gobo is already in stock) is often to just trim your first electric and its masking 12"-24" lower than the rest. If your moon will be a reasonably naturalistic (small) size, and located in the top third of your backdrop then this arrangement tends to work fine.

I know you asked about a gobo specifically, so maybe wandering off topic, but what about a moon box? Could be problematic in terms of resources, or if your drop is painted or has seams in the wrong places, but I'm a big fan of making "the real thing" as in a light box that actually emits light instead of just having the drop reflect light from a gobo projection. It takes a little more money and labor, but is really just some plywood, white paint and some carnival socket or something to make it glow. If you do a good job you will have a versatile tool to add to stock. Use it a few times and it becomes cheaper than collecting gobos. Make one with a nice wide diameter to have size flexibility later. You can just swap out the facing with different shapes, gel colors, painted plexi (for moon craters, etc.) to make a variety of moon phases, suns, planets in various sizes. It hangs space-efficiently immediately upstage of the drop. Some creative rigging can even allow for a rising/setting movement with the pull of a rope or two. I'm not next to my collection of Technical Design Solutions for Theatre volumes, but I remember there is a really nice version of a moon box in one of them that has moon phase changing capability built in (i.e. you can have a live progression from a new moon in scene 1 to a full moon in scene 10).
 
Gobo? We don't need no stinkin' gobo.
My secret "recipe" for a theatrical full moon (not be be confused with pressed-ham:twisted:): a 6x12 w/ Iris (or appropriate aperture reducer) and an 8" Fresnel hung next to each other on the cyc light pipe, both Open White, on separate dimmers. The sharply focused ERS is the moon, and the Fresnel is the haze. Adjust levels to suit.

cyc moon and stars.jpg


The stars were mini Xmas lights pinned to the back of the cyc, with many lamps covered with black E-tape.
Weird how the moon image make the border look crooked; it wasn't.
 

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