Hi everyone, I'm finding it extremely difficult to find help with my stage lighting. I've been a solo singer for the last 20 years in the pubs and clubs of Merseyside. The changing times has prompted me to redirect my path (and act) and I'm finally upgrading my equipment to incorporate lighting. Being a solo act it's quite small, as in about 10-12 lights so far ranging from simple led par cans and Quadzillas to Martin Krypton 250s. I'm trying to control them via my laptop using the Enttec DMXIS and their software 'Showbuddy', which seems ideal for what I need. The problem is, I'm so new to this that despite a not so bad but shaky start, I'm struggling quite badly now and I'm realising I may be a little out of my depth. What I need is to find someone with the right know how to help me set things up properly and get the dam thing programed and running etc. I've tried going onto the manufacturers forums but they just keep on offering me DIY advice that I can't seem to follow......! And I've searched online all over to find help. So does anyone know how or where I can find assistance for this project? (It would make a great project for someone on a lighting course, I'm sure!) Obviously I'm happy to pay for this service, I just can't find anybody that can do the job or is up for the challenge! Thanks
Mission Impossible !!
- Thread startertrekjock
- Start date
JD
Well-Known Member
Well there's a few things to think about before you start buying and trying to figure out how to run it;
1) How much power are you going to need? If you are doing small clubs, or even venues that do not usually have acts, this may be a limiting factor as you may end up running everything off a 15 or 20 amp circuit. That's a total of 1900 watts available on a 20, and 1400 watts on a 15 for everything. (Sound, lights, anything else.)
2) Who is going to transport and set things up? In other words, will this have to fit in the trunk of your car, or the back of your van?
3) How are you going to hang this equipment? Do you need light stands or something a little more in depth?
As a general rule of thumb, the LED concept is going to give you the most for the least amount of power. The Laptop approach for control may give you some problems as programing may require some deep knowledge of the software. A small conventional board such as a Scene setter 24 although more primitive, may be easier to use on the fly. There are many Youtube videos on these controllers that will help you with programing (Example- Scenesetter-24 - Part 1 - YouTube )
For LEDs, you would not need DMX dimmer packs, but they would eat up at least 3 channels each. A simple setup might include 2 to 4 for front lighting, set to the same address, and 2 to 4 for back lighting, again set to the same address. As you learn more about your needs, you may start mixing things up a bit more.
Another option would be to use a small board designed for use with movers, like the Chauvet Obey 70, which works well for LED units, and handles control of up to 12 fixtures.
Here's a DMX lesson given by somebody which may also help with the concept. There are many on the net. Learn to program and use DMX 101 part 1 - YouTube
EDIT: Just caught the UK address, so voltage is different there. To calculate how much wattage you can draw from the plug, take the amperage of the circuit times .8 and then take that number times the voltage. (That assumes that nothing else is on the circuit.)
In the world of non-incandescent lighting where fixtures specify how much they draw in amps, simply add them up! Just remember, when it comes to circuit breakers on branch circuits, you should only load them to 80% for continuous loads. You can put more on there but you risk tripping them if the load is sustained. On the other hand, nameplate ratings for current draw are often the "worst case" and fixtures often draw less.
1) How much power are you going to need? If you are doing small clubs, or even venues that do not usually have acts, this may be a limiting factor as you may end up running everything off a 15 or 20 amp circuit. That's a total of 1900 watts available on a 20, and 1400 watts on a 15 for everything. (Sound, lights, anything else.)
2) Who is going to transport and set things up? In other words, will this have to fit in the trunk of your car, or the back of your van?
3) How are you going to hang this equipment? Do you need light stands or something a little more in depth?
As a general rule of thumb, the LED concept is going to give you the most for the least amount of power. The Laptop approach for control may give you some problems as programing may require some deep knowledge of the software. A small conventional board such as a Scene setter 24 although more primitive, may be easier to use on the fly. There are many Youtube videos on these controllers that will help you with programing (Example- Scenesetter-24 - Part 1 - YouTube )
For LEDs, you would not need DMX dimmer packs, but they would eat up at least 3 channels each. A simple setup might include 2 to 4 for front lighting, set to the same address, and 2 to 4 for back lighting, again set to the same address. As you learn more about your needs, you may start mixing things up a bit more.
Another option would be to use a small board designed for use with movers, like the Chauvet Obey 70, which works well for LED units, and handles control of up to 12 fixtures.
Here's a DMX lesson given by somebody which may also help with the concept. There are many on the net. Learn to program and use DMX 101 part 1 - YouTube
EDIT: Just caught the UK address, so voltage is different there. To calculate how much wattage you can draw from the plug, take the amperage of the circuit times .8 and then take that number times the voltage. (That assumes that nothing else is on the circuit.)
In the world of non-incandescent lighting where fixtures specify how much they draw in amps, simply add them up! Just remember, when it comes to circuit breakers on branch circuits, you should only load them to 80% for continuous loads. You can put more on there but you risk tripping them if the load is sustained. On the other hand, nameplate ratings for current draw are often the "worst case" and fixtures often draw less.
Last edited:
Thanks JD,
Pretty much all the lights are LED based, all but the two Martins!
I've already bought the lighting controller and software as I say. The problems have started pretty much at the beginning. I've been spending literally hours on the first song, and it'd been building up nicely however I'm almost at it's end and I've been told it's too complicated (or at least I've made it more complicated than it needs to be!). As such, quite literally in the final steps, things are falling apart! and I don't know how to fix things.
So what I need is a brainiac that knows how this stuff works that works in the north west of the UK (preferably Merseyside).
Pretty much all the lights are LED based, all but the two Martins!
I've already bought the lighting controller and software as I say. The problems have started pretty much at the beginning. I've been spending literally hours on the first song, and it'd been building up nicely however I'm almost at it's end and I've been told it's too complicated (or at least I've made it more complicated than it needs to be!). As such, quite literally in the final steps, things are falling apart! and I don't know how to fix things.
So what I need is a brainiac that knows how this stuff works that works in the north west of the UK (preferably Merseyside).
