Replicating This Set

[Sam Wesley]

Hello All,

I'm trying to replicate the style of this facade from Filumena:

http://www.souvenir.co.uk/wp-content/files_mf/filumena.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qZ4xIwthRYU/T3LnPHsV1uI/AAAAAAAABao/ttPy_2204t4/s1600/4931%20gallery.jpg

We won't be doing a carbon copy of the set, but our play is also set in a small Italian village and this style would look good.

Could somebody point me in the right direction to creating a similar look?
Suggestions on materials and construction techniques would be greatly appreciated.

I do also have photos from other sets in this style, if anybody wants to take a look.

 

[MarshallPope]

Chances are that that set is mainly constructed from Hollywood Flats and 1/2 or 3/4 ply boxes for columns, with the moldings either a thin ply or styrofoam.

I would suggest finding yourself a copy of Bill Raoul's Stock Scenery Construction Handbook. It will walk you through pretty much everything you will need.

 

[Sam Wesley]

Chances are that that set is mainly constructed from Hollywood Flats and 1/2 or 3/4 ply boxes for columns, with the moldings either a thin ply or styrofoam.

I would suggest finding yourself a copy of Bill Raoul's Stock Scenery Construction Handbook. It will walk you through pretty much everything you will need.

Thanks Marshall.

Does Bill Raoul's Stock Scenery Construction Handbook cover painting techniques, etc?

 

[MarshallPope]

No, there is no painting in the book. There have been at least a couple of threads on here about faking plaster in the past couple of months, though.

 

[Footer]

That set is pretty advanced. If you have never done this before that is a lot of set to bite off. Besides have excellent scenic art that set is also dressed very well and has a very nice walk in look on it. It's not as simple as just throwing some flats up.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[kicknargel]

Much of the complexity comes from the second level(s). Are you doing that, or something simpler, with a similar look/feel?

 

[Sam Wesley]

Much of the complexity comes from the second level(s). Are you doing that, or something simpler, with a similar look/feel?

We'll probably end up putting some faux windows high up to represent a second floor, but in effect, there will only be one level.
The purpose of this thread is more to find out about that wonderful wall texture than it is about the structure.

 

[JohnD]

First off, do a google search for "faux finishes", lots of help there and also check your local library for books on faux finishes and trompe-l-oeil.
Most of the standard college texts on scene design give the basics for scene painting. The best bargain is at Amazon and getting older editions of these.
Then, just like getting to Carnegie hall, practice, practice, practice. Do some sample boards. On a small scale you can use poster board or foam core and the small bottles of acrylic paint you get at craft stores. Apply a base coat, then add coats is different tones using wadded up rags, plastic bags or even aluminum foil. Pick up some cheap plastic gloves. I prefer food service grade vinyl unpowdered, but latex works too. You can also use brushes, paint rollers and sponges.

 

[kicknargel]

One ingredient that some people miss (and some great painters use all the time, and some don't) is clear glaze. I use Rosco's clear acrylic flat, but there are others available. Added to paint, it thins the color but also tends to make the pigment "clump" together. This makes it easier to get texture, where the brush strokes or sponge marks are more prominent.

 

[MarshallPope]

One ingredient that some people miss (and some great painters use all the time, and some don't) is clear glaze. I use Rosco's clear acrylic flat, but there are others available. Added to paint, it thins the color but also tends to make the pigment "clump" together. This makes it easier to get texture, where the brush strokes or sponge marks are more prominent.

Though I also prefer Rosco's, a cheaper alternative for this which does work fairly well for texture is untinted latex accent paint base.

 

[Sam Wesley]

Ok, so are you both saying that texturing needs only to be done by painting (perhaps mixed with some latex paint) directly onto the luan?
Whenever I see sets like these, there always seems to be some other material on top. Is plaster ever used directly on top of luan or ply?

 

[kicknargel]

Yes, good painting technique can make the texture seems 100% real. (See the other thread going on the same topic). Although, it's common (and sometimes easier) to use some actual texture. Often drywall mud, or a mixture of mud with paint, or other mixtures such as VSSSD (click the text) are applied to flats in layers much thinner than actual plaster to create the texture. You really just need enough for trowel marks. Be warned, though - this is not coming back off your flats.