Rosco cyc silk questions

[OddThomas]

Two quick questions regarding Rosco cyc silks (specifically #124, 125, and 126):

First, Rosco's site does provide the data sheets for those like they do for the other gels. Can anyone tell me which color numbers they are equivalent to?

Second, please help me settle an "argument". When someone saw that we had put these in front of our fresnels, they said "you can't use cyc silks in fresnels." I can't think of a reason why not, but there are people here much more knowledgable than I. So is there any reason that these shouldn't be used in a fresnel (1000W Altman 1KAF6)?

Thanks

 

[josh88]

The mere fact that you did put them in a fresnel shows that you can. The only reason I can think is that the silk striations diffuse the output which would change the shape of a fresnels beam slightly. I can't think of another reason, so I'd be enlightened as well.


Via tapatalk

 

[sk8rsdad]

R27, R80, and R91 are probably closest.

You can put silks in a fresnel to shape the beam. Depending on the fresnel and the focus (spot vs flood) the silk will eventually become smooth as the striations melt and flow. Since fresnels are already softened by the pebbled lens, adding diffusion does not offer as much benefit.

 

[OddThomas]

The basic reason we are putting them in the fresnels is to match/contrast the RGB cyc wash on some shells behind a choir. So we put up groups of 3 RGB fresnels and aimed them at the shells above the heads of the choir. We are using them because we had excess gel material left over from cutting the cyc gels (i.e. free!) - not so worried about shaping the beam.

 

[SteveB]

R27, R80, and R91 are probably closest.

You can put silks in a fresnel to shape the beam. Depending on the fresnel and the focus (spot vs flood) the silk will eventually become smooth as the striations melt and flow. Since fresnels are already softened by the pebbled lens, adding diffusion does not offer as much benefit.

I was going to say R26, but nitpicking.

You can use any frost anytime, anywhere. There's no "frost police" out there telling you no. You just need to know the characteristics of the diffusion and decide if it'll work for a particular application. Sounds like what you're doing works well for your need.

I keep a dozen cuts of R104, the no color version, stapled into paper frames. I then cut the frames so it's a round 7.5" shape and will pop it into a unit to shape the beam as needed. I have it behind a metal frame and can hand rotate the 104 to get the diffusion running the direction I want. Useful for lighting scenic elements - columns, etc... when the unit might otherwise not cover.