I work for a company that does mock star trek missions and I they asked me recently to build some barricades so when the people left the ships they could hide behind something. I already have the design, but I'm having trouble of coming up with a solution to securing them to the floor. I need some way to lift a flat and some wheels barely off the ground so it can't move. Does anyone have any ideas because I am stumped!
Securing Rolling Platform
- Thread starterSkylerpax
- Start date
shiben
Well-Known Member
Cant remember the technical term, but its basically a deadbolt with a lever handle and a rubber foot. Wagon brake or something? 2 of those should do exactly what you need.
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Tex
Active Member
Dionysus
Well-Known Member
A note that 'wagon brakes' as they are more commonly used in our industry are also called 'toggle clamps' as they were originally manufactured as clamps for jigs. Specifically the 'in-line toggle clamp'.
A few years ago when I was trying to source wagon brakes I had a hard time finding them, especially at least somewhat locally. I then recalled their 'other name' and found them easy. DeStaCo is one of the common brands.
A few years ago when I was trying to source wagon brakes I had a hard time finding them, especially at least somewhat locally. I then recalled their 'other name' and found them easy. DeStaCo is one of the common brands.
Thanks for letting me know about wagon clamps/in-line toggle clamps. The only problem is they are little on the pricey side(I've priced them around 15-18 bucks a piece). I have to build 5 of these platforms and they want for clamps per platform which would make the cost for the project skyrocket. They are willing to pay out but they want me to try and find an alternative. Any suggestions again?
Can you drill into the stage you are working on? If so, a cane bolt would be a good alternative and they are cheap.
If that does not work, the only other alternative is a hinged plate that the casters are attached to. There are numerous threads on this such as: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/scenery-props-rigging/21439-retractable-casters.html. Its a bit more work, but it does work.
I've never had to buy them (for stage use at least), but that price seems a little high considering every theatre I have worked with, even the cheapest ones, have had crates full of them; I just can't see them having spent that amount of money.
As to alternatives, how much time do you have?
You could also make custom brakes (levers) if you have the ability to work with metal (even wood would work really). Use leverage to place a block, pipe, leg, etc down whilst raising the object off the ground. Then a locking mechanism of sorts.
I've seen what is essentially a 2x4 (or similar) on a hinge at the bottom of the object to lift it off it's casters. Lift one side kick the hinged board in and set it down on top of it, do the same for the opposing side and you should be off the casters. Of course the frame would need to be resting on the kick boards, so the object would need to account for that.
15 bucks a piece for the cheap ones are pretty standard. However, those cheap ones tend to twist over time and jam up. Good wagon breaks will last a long time but they also take a lot of abuse. Production Advantage has a pretty good price on them: Wagon Brakes
DuckJordan
Touring IATSE Member
BrockTucker
Member
Best price I've found, I just purchased a dozen of these for my theater.
Amazon.com: MSI-PRO MSI-302F (52120) Push/Pull Quick-Release Toggle Clamps: Home Improvement: Reviews, Prices & more
Amazon.com: MSI-PRO MSI-302F (52120) Push/Pull Quick-Release Toggle Clamps: Home Improvement: Reviews, Prices & more
Tex
Active Member
A TD I worked with would take a section of 2" aluminum pipe about 18" long and bend the last 6" at 90 degrees. At the bend, the pipe would be about 3" wide due to being flattened. Place the short side under the wagon frame with the long side facing straight up and then push the long end until it's parallel with the floor. Your casters are now off the deck.
scenerymaker
Member
If you can have a handle on the upstage side of your rolling wagons, you can do this:
Both wheels at one end of the wagon are mounted on an off-center pivot with a handle to rotate it. Pivot the wheels down and they lift the wagon for rolling. They lock in place by going slightly over center. Pivot the wheels up and the wagon sits solidly on the stage. Do the same thing at the other end of the wagon.
The wheels are extended here.
They are retracted here.
This only cost a few dollars for the pipe.
Both wheels at one end of the wagon are mounted on an off-center pivot with a handle to rotate it. Pivot the wheels down and they lift the wagon for rolling. They lock in place by going slightly over center. Pivot the wheels up and the wagon sits solidly on the stage. Do the same thing at the other end of the wagon.
The wheels are extended here.
They are retracted here.
This only cost a few dollars for the pipe.
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MPowers
Well-Known Member
Here are some Old School methods that still work for manual caster lifts.View attachment 1 Mechanical caster lifts general.pdfView attachment 2 Mechanical caster lifts 4x8.pdfView attachment 3 Mechanical caster lifts wall unit.pdf
See if any of these will help you. Note, as it says on the sketches, always build the unit so the hinge does not support the load. If it does, the screws will soon work loose and pull out.
See if any of these will help you. Note, as it says on the sketches, always build the unit so the hinge does not support the load. If it does, the screws will soon work loose and pull out.
