Control/Dimming Stage pin Poll

[gafftapegreenia]

BOTH company's make clear covers, but I believe Union did it first, back when they still made square bodies. I love clear covers because they let you see heat damage caused by pull outs or loose screws, before it melts a connector.

Also, there ARE ferrule crimpers, and better results are achieved by using one. Better results are also achieved by using proper gauge ferrules. I've seen more failures of 16 AWG instrument wire used in 12AWG ferrules only crimped by the screw than I can remember.

I can find almost any crimp terminal (except for flag terminals) on the shelf at Home Depot, ferrules, not so much.

Pressure plate (which, as far as I know, was Union only) has been discontinued. Union told me it just cost too much to manufacture.

My favorite 2P&G are actually the Rosco ones with the barrel springs in the female pins. [Discussion: http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/16300-never-split-pins-again.html .]

As for wire wrapping, it's a huge no no. BUT in a pinch, I'll allow it, but NOT on wires over 16 gauge. 18 AWG Zip cord used for a one time practical is the only thing I can wire wrap in good conscience. I've seen some creative wire wrapping, like splitting the strands of 12AWG in half, wrapping the two legs around a screw, twisting them back together, and then tightening the screw. Vey creative, but a practice I don't condone. Unlike solid wire, stranded jus doesn't wrap screws all that well.

 

[techieman33]

BOTH company's make clear covers, but I believe Union did it first, back when they still made square bodies.

I didn't realize that, I don't remember ever seeing a bates plug with a clear lid.

 

[derekleffew]

... But really it comes down to proper installation of the hardware either way. And how good the strain relief is. ...

With a properly-applied and crimped ring terminal, the strain-relief is superfluous:

... A good test I have written about before and I still use once a year to impress upon the new kids is the hanging from your crimp test. Given my concerns with tinned wire plus strength, you might test the strength. It might be sufficient in other than a short condition, but will defiantly show if you are using a proper crimp tool or if your pressure is too light or too much.
Same technique. Have the new kid use their Ace Hardware special crimp tool crimp some ring terminals onto some 12/3 wire. Even allow them to put extra force into their crimp over what they would normally use. Than use the Stakon or Vatco tool to crimp some ring terminals onto the other side of the cord using normal pressure. Screw both ring terminals to a piece of plywood or stud mounted to the wall using #8 wire gauge screws. (Number 6 screws have a sheer strength of 40# each and will be possible to break during the test.)
Next give a tug on the newbie’s crimped wire. Most likely it will pull right out of the terminals. If it does not, climb up the wire. 12/3 wire will support about 150 or more pounds before it breaks. If the wire does not slip out of the crimp terminals at that point, give it a bounce while hanging. I have never had a un-approved crimp terminal survive this far, they all slip out. Than have the kid climb your cable. If done properly - cross your fingers, the crimp terminal will hold and be every bit as strong as the wire. The first thing to fail would be the ring itself and a #8 stud ring terminal is fairly strong. ...

(I wouldn't advise attempting to hang from a ferrule or pressure plate connection.)
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RE: Bates colors, from http://www.marinco.com/product/bates-20-amp-female-inline-all-colors-terminations :

Now, whether one can take the time and trouble to have a dealer special order the non-black connectors is another point entirely.

Does anyone happen to know if a company (say like ETC) supplies All White connectors on their white architectural luminaire s?

.

 

[techieman33]

With a properly-applied and crimped ring terminal, the strain-relief is superfluous:

(I wouldn't advise attempting to hang from a ferrule or pressure plate connection.)
.

Is there a reason to need that strong of a connection? The connection between plugs is going to be broken long before the strength of the crimp is going to come into play. I do agree though that those cheap crimpers/strippers that come in kits are junk and have no good use. A good set of strippers and a good crimpers are a lot easier to use too.

 

[Lsly]

With a properly-applied and crimped ring terminal, the strain-relief is superfluous:

Really? So I can stop using the strain relief? I think not.

LS

 

[Lsly]

Almost all the Brands make clear now.

LS

 

[SteveB]

DEFINITELY Bates (because of the Clear lid option so you can see if someone wired it wrong!) with Ring terminals or Spade terminals. Help me out with this one- What's the appeal of ferrules in use on Stage Pin connectors? A ring connector or even a spade terminal would have better contact and a tighter fit, no? Why did so many of you say Ferrules? Obviously it's better than just the stranded wire wrapped around the screw, but I'm just curious why so many said ferrule over spade or ring terminals.

Of the 3 choices, ferrules are (IMO) the easiest to get right and the most idiot proof. No crimp tool needed. The (correct) ferrule under the screw makes a good contact as the screw essentially crimps the ferrule upon tightening. The installation of the ferrule onto the stranded wire is easy to apply and easy to see if you get all the strands into the ferrule. I don't trust anybody but a really good electrician who likes doing this work to install stranded wiring under pressure plate and get all the strands under the plate.

Bates can supply replacement ferrules for the connectors, makes maintenance easy.

In 9 years of use on our system with 2P&G, we have zero over-heated/melted connectors. We use to have regular melted twist, prior.