Taking a look at CD80 dimmer packs.

mozsey

Member
Hello control booth, I would like to preface with this; I do not mean to maintenance the dimmers, just see which ones are dead.

At a high school that I help at for lighting, there are a bunch of circuits that do not work, or are on and off when it comes to working. I have worked with CD80s before and know how to change them out properly, but what I do not know is what a broken or blown one looks like. This space isn't very well taken care of, and I just want to get an idea of what it'll take to bring it back up.

Thanks!
 
... but what I do not know is what a broken or blown one looks like. ...
It's very likely that a "broken or blown one" looks identical to a fully-functioning module.

The best way to diagnose is via module swap. After following all applicable LOTO procedures, exchange the suspect module with a known working one. Did the problem stay with the slot or follow the module?

See also the thread http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/lighting-electrics/6987-three-dimmers-wont-turn-off.html .

I do not mean to maintenance the dimmers, just see which ones are dead.
One of three outcomes:
1. A working fixture dims normally when commanded from the console.
2. A working fixture stays at 100% regardless of control setting. Replace SSR.
3. A working fixture will not light regardless of control setting.
a. Probably replace SSR.
b. Might be wiring from dimmer to fixture.
c. Might be control circuitry somewhere between console and SSR.

EDIT: Although you said dimmer pack in the title, I assumed you meant dimmer rack. If in fact you were talking about a CD80 portable pack, the dimmer modules are not removable, so you could simply try an adjacent dimmer channel, or swap SSRs (if qualified and follow all safety procedures), but it's less work to just replace the SSR with a new one. (They usually cost $50-$100.) If that fixes the problem, throw the old one away. If it doesn't fix the issue, you now have a spare and can move on to further troubleshooting.
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Mozsey
I would agree with Derekleffew's troubleshooting approach. Is this a CD80 pack or rack? If it is a rack, swapping out a known good module will confirm a slot problem or module problem.
If this is a CD80 pack, confirm you are connecting to a good lamp source and that there are no loose connections such as lamp socket. If possible swap the load wire between outputs to confirm that it is either a load or SSR problem.
We still have the SSR's available for both models.
Thanks
Strand technical support
Doug
 
Mozsey
I would agree with Derekleffew's troubleshooting approach. Is this a CD80 pack or rack? If it is a rack, swapping out a known good module will confirm a slot problem or module problem.
If this is a CD80 pack, confirm you are connecting to a good lamp source and that there are no loose connections such as lamp socket. If possible swap the load wire between outputs to confirm that it is either a load or SSR problem.
We still have the SSR's available for both models.
Thanks
Strand technical support
Doug
This is a rack, sorry for the confusion about saying pack. Was in a hurry and it slipped my mind.

If I switch for a good module and it still doesn't work, would I then have to suggest the school get a trained technician in to look at circuits? Would the cable runs to the circuits be a hazard if they're not working?
 
Good Morning

Yes

Maybe

After you've done the basics, get someone with the right tools & knowlege to go though the system
A loose or worn out wire in the wrong place could be a big issue.
It depends where it is
Find an ETCP certified electrician to go through the system.
A licensed electrician would do but may not be familiar with theater electrics and dimming.
 

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