I must be missing something here. Why do you have to use the C-Clamps as in a
boom base or side arm situation? Why not just
bolt the
yoke directly to your plywood or steel floor
base? Could even put a washer under it if you want the ability to adjust it - especially if it's a fiber or nylon washer that won't let you tighten the
bolt tight enough that you still can't adjust the
fixture. Most Lekos are yoked at their balance
point so as long as you have enough weight and square inches of material below them to counter balance any tipping or top heavyness of the
fixture, you don't need to attach them to pipe or steel as if they were flown over head. Consiquently, most floor bases are more than sufficient in weight to support the
Leko. I would put both on individual floor bases. Much easier to move.
If necessary,
lay down some
gaffers tape and install some
velcro above it. The
gaff tape will come off the
stage without marring the surface, the
velcro will be able to stick to your floor
base, ensuring it won't move. Another option is to use stick on or screw on rubber feet under the
base to prevent it from sliding about when weight such as the weight of an
instrument possibly with a small
stage weight or sand bag supplimenting it. If necessary, install your hole slightly off center to counteract any weight distribution issues. After that, I have seen larger plywood bases that would easily adapt to a smaller scale with vinyl floor runner/non-skid materials on it for
stage braces, a few sand bags thrown on the plywood to keep the wall in place without marring the floor. Wouldn't take much for a
Leko.
Here are some options that I have used when painted black:
Option 1, use a commercially available room dividing industrial show/party
pipe and drape portable steel or aluminum
base. They vary from 12 to 18" in size and have countersunk holes in them to accept a 1/2" flat-head screw. (Your maintinence departmant might have a few they can loan out. They are usually either steel plate or molded and countersunk plates of a thinner
gauge.)
Option 2, use a
mic stand base, a 1/2" screw and some washers. Since it's tapped for a 3/4" NPT hole, and you will be using a 1/2"
bolt, there isn't much chance you will be stripping it out but if necessary, you can add a pipe spacer of some sort say a 1/2" Sch. 40 pipe or better yet a small section of 1/2" RMT pipe to fill the gap. I usually don't worry about it however.
Option 3, get a piece of plate steel say 1/8" to 1/2" thick and usually 12" square and
countersink two 1/2" holes in it. One at the center and one towards the front. If using a smaller plate, you will need to
epoxy or weld a
block or at least 1/4" plate to it to accept the countersunk
bolt. Install some female
velcro on the bottom so it doesn't scratch the floor. Could swipe a
stage weight and
countersink a hole to it also if you are not afraid of pissing off the TD. That's about double the weight you need. On the same idea, I have used some 10" x 1/8" plate with a small handle like section of 1.1/2" Sch. 40 pipe welded to it by way of a
joiner plate between the two. That way, if you are really attached to using a
C-Clamp, you just clamp to the handle part.
Option 4,
laminate together 2 pieces of 3/4"x12" square particle board.
Router the edges as needed and
countersink a hole for the
bolt. Cut the above holes in it and install rubber case feet on the bottom.
Option 5, do the above with plywood either plywood squares or disks. This is a light weight option so if you need to install both instruments, they can be both on the same
base. Just a question of installing a
block on the plywood so there is enough
thickness to hold a screw. If you want to use normal hex bolts with this option, just
fillet a hole in the bottom board.
Option 6, Get some 7/8"x1.5/8" slotted
Unistrut in an appropriate length. Attach some at least 3"x6" x 1/16" plate to the ends (if not plywood) and center to act as feet, or attach some
unistrut for this purpose. Use
Unistrut nuts to attach the fixtures to the
Unistrut.
Option 7, Same as above but with at least 1.1/4"x16ga box tubing steel or 1" Sch. 40 Pipe with the
fixture bolted instead of clamped to the pipe or tubing.
Option 8, use Sch.40 Pipe (Steel Lighting Pipe). Rotolock legs/outriggers to the pipe using floor flanges and 90 degree plumbing joints. Than clamp to the pipe using anything from baby clamps for 3/4" pipe to normal C-clamps for normal 1.5" ID pipe.
I must have missed something. Look about, I'm sure floor bases for lights are around the theater somewhere or put a
bit of thought and time into them and give the theather something they should already have about.